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Posted

I don't know which boat you are building; however, my new sail will be ~17' on the foot so I have allowed ~ 48' betweeen the forestays. Wolf used a sail nearly the same size and had much less clearance. I don't know if there is a rule of thumb for this. I guess it is what ever you can get through the slot. There are various ways of moving the lapper from one side to the other depending on your situation. I suspect that with a slot of ~30% of the sail foot length, and no sheet induced snags on the inner forestay, she should tack just fine and the wind will blow the lapper through the slot freely.

Posted

Jan,

The Weekender bowsprit is 60" long. If you are going to use a Lapper, then you would measure (the foot length) from the bow eye to the forward shroud. Then subtract about 3-6 inches. The luff and the leech lengths would be the same as on the standard jib.

You will need to plan on setting your jib blocks on the side rails aft of the rear shroud and at essentially a 90 degree angle from the centerline of the luff. Ideally you would put the blocks on a section of sail track so that they can be adjusted fore/aft depending upon the sailing conditions.

Then put a couple cam cleats further back (next to the front of the cockpit), along the side decks for the jib sheets. They will be easier to use if they are up on blocks about 3/4" off the deck.

This is assuming that you are not planning on setting an extended bowsprit but using the standard dimensions.

If you are planning on setting the sail on a furling setup, then you need to be sure that your dimensions are ok after establishing the length of the luffwire from the spool on the furler.

I think Capt. Jake is more than pleased with his setup and its ease of operation and handling. So you might pay attention to how he has his setup now that he has made some changes to correct a couple minor shortcomings in his rigging.

Posted

Thanks Barry, I am at the point of making the bowsprit, and I want to get it the way I want the first time. I bought both the sailmakers apprentice and the riggers apprentice a few weeks ago , but I have only scimmed through them. What a great resource. I'm nearly sure that I will make the sails now. That will be the winter project . I mainly wanted to see if the bowsprit needed to be extended for the lapper. I haven't made up my mind about the roller furling. Would I need to extend the bowsprit for that?

I hope Capn' Jake doesn't mind getting brain picked, because I know I can be a pest. I am hoping at the end of all this (if there is an end) that I can be even a fraction of help to someone.

Posted

Jan, the bowsprit length and the subsequent location of the forestay on it will impact the size of the fore triangle. This will also impact the size of the head sail. If you want a lapper, its foot will be determined by that distance. There shouldn't be any need to increase the bowsprit length just to do the lapper or to add roller furling.

I added to the length of my bowsprit because I also increased the height of the mast and I wanted to maintain the same shape in the fore triangle. This gives me the space for a potential cutter rig (second foresail) along with increased mainsail area. I haven't done either yet but might over the winter.

One drawback to increasing the sprit length is that it makes it a bit more difficult to hank the jib onto the forestay. I haven't been brave enough to walk out onto my bowsprit yet. :shock: As it is, I have to either hank on the jib while on the trailer or reach way above my head while standing on the foredeck near the bitts.

Posted

Dave,

I will probably keep the 60" bowsprit given that.

I built the cabin 4" taller, so I will have a 4" mast height difference. Since the forestay will be at a slightly different angle, and having decided on a lapper, I wonder if remeasuring for the jib is in order.

Posted

Increase the length of your bowsprit to 62 1/2". That will make up for the 4" height increase. That will also set your jib or lapper just a little higher, which isn't an disadvantage, but it will keep the same angles and proportions to them.

No, as Dave just stated, you don't need to lengthen the bowsprit just because you were going to add a Lapper or roller furling. You just need to make your jib/lapper with a luff wire built into the leading edge if you are going to do essentially as Capt. Jake and I are doing with the furling system.

You would have a forestay and then the roller furling just a couple inches behind it. That will allow you to adjust the luff tension with a halyard and make raising and lowering ot the entire furling system easy. It will also allow you to use the standard jib or a storm sail on the forestay with the halyard to raise and lower it. Lot of flexability that way.

Posted

Barry reminded me of something I wanted to mention with my set up. I set my jib higher on the forestay since my main is higher. The added benefit to this is that it gives me better forward vision since I can see under the jib fairly well.

The boom is high enough that there's no need to duck during a tack or jib. My brain bucket likes that. ;) My mast is 3' taller than plan and I think the bowsprit is about 12" or so longer. I remember I had to temporarily modify the ornamental mill to get it in for turning and faceting.

Posted

Dave,

3 ft!! Ok, now I am not worried about 4 inches :)

The better view I'll bet is great. Someone mentioned to me a while back to sew a window into the jib :) Might look a little too modern though.

Thanks

Posted

I agree with you on the window in the jib. And 4" won't be a big deal. My mast is hollow though. At least I didn't add 3' of 4x4. That 3' not only let me move the boom up enough to clear my noggin but it also gave me more clearance between the gaff jaws and the shrouds. The boom might be only 9 or 10" above plan. I can't remember all those little details. If it ever stops raining, I'll go out and measure it.

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