BobSmalser Posted March 13, 2004 Posted March 13, 2004 This article deals with restoring metal surfaces. It Quote
BobSmalser Posted March 13, 2004 Author Posted March 13, 2004 I then test the quality of my surface using a little cold bluing for color Quote
BobSmalser Posted March 13, 2004 Author Posted March 13, 2004 Will this be strong enough? The solder I Quote
MikeStevenson Posted March 14, 2004 Posted March 14, 2004 Your polishing technique is much like the one I use. I keep going with the sandpaper to 1500 grit though, then use Polishing Compound (the stuff for car bodies which I usually just happen to have around), then finish with Wenol. After that I wash w/soap and warm/hot water and make sure the parts are dry before waxing them with furniture wax (if I'm leaving them bright; brass, etc.) Works prety well. I have brass and steel cap-andball revolver I left in bright steel and brass as it's a nice contrast. I wouldn't mind nickle plating the steel, but the finish is so smooth I can keep it from rusting as-is. I was intrigued by the way you filled those holes in the receiver. I'll have to remember that. Mike Quote
BobSmalser Posted March 15, 2004 Author Posted March 15, 2004 I'll post an excellent comment from a pro engraver on another forum. He suggests cutting a tapered countersink, leave the screw long, and merely peen it into the hole without solder. Through as opposed to blind holes would be best done from both directions, and the interior surface of the relatively thin receiver would have to be backed up with a hardy or other steel block prior to peening. Quote
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