BJ Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Hi everyone, Well i'm almost ready to put the sides on. I haven't noticed any where on the planes how to beef up the transom for an outboard. I would like to put a 4 to 6 HP motor on. Any suggestions would be greatly apprecaited. Quote
Guest Anonymous Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 Which boat? I don't think you need to beef anything up on theWeekender. Curved plywood panels all in stress against each other provides plenty of strength and rigidity. IIRC the Vacationer plans do call for a transom doubler on the inside. Quote
Barry Pyeatt Posted August 29, 2003 Posted August 29, 2003 If you are building a Weekender the motor mount is thru bolted with a panel attached to the transom. If you use a seperate motor mount, you should back it up in the inside with another larger piece of ply that is thru bolted to re enforce the entire area. What ever you do thru bolt the mount, don't use screws to attach it. Quote
BJ Posted August 30, 2003 Author Posted August 30, 2003 Hi Barry, i'm building a vacationer. thanks for your input ,what i'm thinking of doing is putting another layer of 1/2 inch ply inside over the whole transom. Then put 3/4 where the motor is monted. what do you think Quote
Barry Pyeatt Posted August 30, 2003 Posted August 30, 2003 Hi BJ, I don't think you need to double up on the 1/2" ply. You are not subjecting the transom to that much stress. This isn't using high power with a lot of vibration. It is incredibly strong when you build a structure this way with a curve to it. A 1/2" doubler plate should be sufficient. Just make it a little wider/higher than the actual mount requires. Place the mount on the transom and thru bolt the entire assembly and you won't ever need to worry about it. I get to the Tampa/St. Pete area a couple times a year. Next trip, if you aren't too busy, I may see if we can get together. I'd love to see your Vacationeer project. Quote
BJ Posted August 30, 2003 Author Posted August 30, 2003 I was out sanding on the boat, its amazing how dirty a person can get doing that. Between the sawdust and the glue iI think i've removed at least three layers of skin. Barry your probably correct, two layers of 1/2 ply is probably overkill. Thanks for the advise and yes any time your in the area please call me.Were 45 min south of Tampa in Sarasota. I own an appliance store. My internet site is www.mullets.com. Thanks again and good nite. Quote
Barry Pyeatt Posted August 30, 2003 Posted August 30, 2003 Good lines of appliances. Are those displays in your store? I am/was a Certified kitchen/bath designer among other things. Haven't done much of it lately other than for my own places or commission work for friends and recomendations. But those are lines that I specified many times. One of these days I'll drop you a note and see if we can get together. Quote
rmckdo Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 oh Barry I needed you this weekend! I actually installed a new SS sink and removed an old cast iron one... I had so may ?'s ...but it seemed to work out in the end...no leaks so far...in future we want to redo our kitchen (after boat is done) lol Quote
Barry Pyeatt Posted September 3, 2003 Posted September 3, 2003 Rob, I can offer you a little tip that will improve the SS sink. The greatest challenge is that they are a little noisy and don't retain heat very well. We used to get a can of spray-on automotive undercoating, mask off the areas where the fittings were attached and then heavily coated the bottom/sides of the sink wells. End result was that the sinks were quieter and they retained the heat a lot better. Both nice attributes of the cast iron sinks but complaints against the SS sinks. You can still do it after it is installed, but it would be easier beforehand obviously. 8) Quote
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