Companionway Hatch

[Robert Cox]

We're making good progress on Star Chaser now that we've got the deck fiberglassed and painted.

I'm looking at building the sliding hatch and have hit a bit of a snag. We decided early on that we didn't like the handrails being used to hold the hatch down so I've moved the hand rails out where they will be usable. We like the way in which the hatch is built and the idea of the slides that the hatch uses. The problem now is figuring out how to keep the hatch down and keep it weather resistant.

The look of the hatch system shown in the plans is very traditional except for the handrails and I would like to keep it looking tradiotional if at all possible.

Any ideas of how the "big boys" do it? Or does anyone have access to a diagram or pictures showing how it's done? How do they hold the hatch down when using the slides?

Bob

[Barry Pyeatt]

Most of them on the less than "classic" yachts are simply sliding on the cabin top with an inverted "L" on either side to hold them down. Often they have small rubber bumpers fore and aft on the "L" to act as stops.

Some of them use a water diversion strip under the hatch cover to act as the stop for forward and back movement.

Obviously this amounts to some wear and abrasion on all the contact surfaces. And on most small boats, hatch covers are generally considered replaceable. They get beat up and are subject to a lot of abuse.

I have seen some on small nylon drawer rollers that roll on the cabin top with the roller in a channel. It works! The channel is closed at both ends so that acts as the stops on both sides and prevents the hatch from lifting up.

I've had the "L" type and the resulting wear and abrasion so I elected to do mine differently this time so that the hatch cover itself doesn't actually contact the cabin roof but slides on the rails.

[Robert Cox]

Barry, I want something that will last a while. I don't want it rubbing on the cabin roof wearing off the finish or wearing down the bottom of the hatch. I would also like to be able to stand on the hatch when it's done. I weigh 250 lbs. and I don't think the drawer rollers will handle that kind of weight.

I've been thinking about this all week and haven't been able to come up with something I feel is usable.

Somebody out there smarter than me has the answer.

Bob

[TexasPhil]

Robert,

I have seen several solutions to this... one is to have double hand rails, one for the cabin hatch, the other for actual handrails.

I have thought about it, and what I plan on doing is to make taller hand rails. Tall enough to have the hatch move without catching my little fingers. but not too tall to make it weaker or unsightly.

I am going to put a little strip of plastic where the hatch rubs so it won't ruin the paint. And some type of latch to keep it in the forward position (don't want it sliding back and forth). Probably a wedge that will be inserted into the rail.

Phil

[Barry Pyeatt]

Well, my hatch will hold up considerably more than 250#. It has suffered the impact test when I fell on it. It is pretty traditional looking and clean, with the vinyl shower strips underneath the inside edges, it is weather resistant. It slides easily, doesn't lift and doesn't contact the roof at all. It is also not entirely my design, but based upon a hatch from a number of Classic Wooden Boats. I too like the traditional looks but most of them are just sliding on the cabin roof. A narrow nylon strip on the roof and on the bottom outside edges of the hatch cover will eliminate the wear factor and no one would see the strips.

Just a thought.

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

I have a similar dilema. I have my hatch built already, the tracks are installed and the handrails are made and fitted. We will install the handrails after the topsides are painted. While modifying the cabinroof we wrestled the top ply on and managed to ("believe it or not") get compound curves on the roof (1/2" ply). So now the rooftop is curved from side to side and there's also a dip towards the middle of the roof (front to back). We didn't quite think that would be possible, but we managed to prove it can be done if you do it right... don't really know what we've done right in this circumstance. Anyway, now the sliding rails for the hatch have a dip in them and exagerated they would look like a ski jump.

The problem now is installing the rollers which keep the hatch down (on the handrail). I've spent some 2-3 hrs looking at it (and with a 1/2 bottle of rum to broaden my horizon). I think I did have a solution, but it got drowned in the rum and I cannot remember it now.

Any ideas?

[Dave R1]

Robert, I agree with you about the handrails. I doubt my Weekender will even get the rails since I'll have two halyards on the roof on each side of the hatch. My hatch slides on rails that are like upside down Ls with a narrow strip screwed to the top of the vertical portion of the slide. The hatch is flat-topped because I wanted to be able to stand on it if need be. It also provides a slight bit more head room in the cabin. There are pictures here: http://groups.msn.com/WeekenderBoatbuilding/daverichardsweekender.msnw

The sides of the hatch are actually two pieces of 3/4" mahogany with a groove plowed in the outer piece for the slide rail to fit.

I saw an interesting hatch arrangement on another Weekender in which some sort of rollers were used. The aft end of the hatch lifted up to clear the companionway doors. It was quite nice and looks pretty weather resistant. Maybe Chris Pesklo lurks here and would chime in on it.

[Robert Cox]

Dave, that's the first time I've checked out your site. You've got some interesting pictures there.

Your hatch looks plenty sturdy. I think it should work out well. Looks like you could jump up and down on it with no problem.

Oh, and your boat is looking good too.

Bob

[Barry Pyeatt]

Here is a sketch of an overlapping hatch design that would be very strong, low profile and could solve the bow in the roof issue as well.

The frame corners could be half laps or box joints to increase the strength of the corners. Shouldn't have any problem with weight on it. Very traditional type of design elements.

Maybe it will give you some ideas in addition to those already presented.

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[Andrew]

Barry

You should get a job doing this for a living!

What a great diagram, woodgrain and all!

Maybe the stevensons could emply you to re draw the plans

Keep up the great work - and don't use up all your drawing skills before I get to the bits I need help with :wink:

Thanx

Andrew

[Barry Pyeatt]

Thanks Andrew,

Sometimes a sketch will make things easier to understand. If I can help to clarify something for anyone, I will try. I enjoy doing it and I'm told that I have a knack for it, so why not.

Besides, I have answers floating around in my head. Just need a question now and then to bring them out. Amazes me most of the time.

Can't go back to work on my Weekender for awhile yet so I have to do something that relates.

__________________________

I may not be good....but I'm slow. :roll:

[Sailor3356]

My boat has two hatchs on it. Both slid on two aluminum "C" channels. They have held up very well since the boat was built back in 1976. The two channels interlock with each other and I have never had any trouble with them.

[Dave R1]

Bob, thanks for the compliments. I was actually planning to put a cross member under the center of the hatch to stiffen the plywood but found the hatch is plenty stiff with out. My forehatch is also made of 3/8 lauan ply and should be stiff enough to stand on as well. I haven't tried it yet because the boat sits far enough forard on the dolly that I'm worried it will pitch me off over the bow if I try.

By the way, On the forehatch I decided to forego any sort of handle to avoid possible hang ups for the lines. The latch is one of those magnetic child-proof cabinet latches so there isn't any visible lock and no place for water to get through when closed.

Barry, where were you when I was designing my hatch arrangement? Keep up the good work. I really appreciate your drawings.

[Robert Cox]

Dave, I feel that having hatches capable of handling someone stepping on them a major requirement. Both the cabin roof and forepeak are areas you have to work on and it's just too easy to put a foot somewhere you didn't intend. As Barry said or experianced, you never know when you might loose your footing and land on a hatch. I guess better there than in the water. :shock:

Barry, I was wondering what program your using to draw those nice diagrams on. They look like they came out of a book and you seem to draw them up so quickly. Is there something your not telling us? I know, your writing a book about building your weekender and these are the plates some high dollar artist drew up for you, right?

Keep up the good work.

Bob 8)

[Barry Pyeatt]

Yes Bob there is a lot I've not shared with this group. 8)

I have an extremely sophisticated CAD program on a computer system that most people wouldn't believe. It is called "Paint".

The computer is quite powerful though since I use it for real time chart watching and quotes in the stock and options market. I also have multiple monitors which are a way of life for me, unless I'm on the road.

At some point in the past I was a certified kitchen/bath designer with an architectural drawing background. I was also a commercial artist/designer. Still draw, paint and design/build furniture and remodel homes. Besides building boats.

Can't work in the shop for a few more months yet so I have to keep myself occupied somehow. So I write. Been published a number of times.

So I have fun here! Really enjoy this group, good people with wonderful sense of humor and a real interest in what they are doing. I love it! :wink: :roll:

[Robert Cox]

Well Barry, your a wealth of information and I for one am glad your a member of this rad-tag group. All pirates to the end.

Bob

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

We made our hatches out of 1/2" ply (the tops). We wanted to make sure they'll withstand the pressure of some of us who are a bit heavier. Unfortunately I was silly enough to make the sliding hatch out of 1/4" so there will be no walking on that one, I should have made it out of 1/2".

I may build another during the winter out of 1/2" or just line the one I have with solid wood strips, maybe that will make it stronger. I just don't really want to take the time to do it right now.

Cheers

[Robert Cox]

Florin, just laminate another layer of 1/4 on top. I plan to laminate two pieces of 1/4" ply for the main hatch. It will be easier to form and should be as strong or stronger than one 1/2" piece of ply.

Bob

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

You're right BOB! Why the heck didn't I think of that? Probably 'cause it's too easy, and since I'm known to always complicate things I came up with the brilliant idea of making a new one. Pretty silly eh? I'll just laminate another 1/4" on top just like you said and will be done in a jiffy.

Thanks

[Robert Cox]

Florin, that's why we all come here or one of the reasons. To get answers to questions we didn't ask and sometimes the one's we do.

Sometimes the easiest answers are the toughest ones to come up with. The one thing I try to keep in mind is that the simpler it is the easier it will be to fix or the less likely it is to break down in the first place.

Just glad I could help.

Bob 8)