Wayne Jeffers

A reminder after 21 days? Short fuse, eh? It doesn't seem to recognize me if I'm logged in, as the time log at the top hasn't changed in several look-ins. Do I have to actually post every 30 or 60 days to keep the wolf at bay? Wayne

Thanks for that, Vince. But the link you posted has an error. I think this is what you want: http://www.frayedknotarts.com/files/BasicKnotBook02-01-10/00fullset.pdf Wayne

As you have discovered, the traditional canoe shape is far from ideally suited for an outboard. Cutting it off and adding a transom will get the kicker back on the center line, which is a good thing. A small outboard, mounted as you have it, can result in an unintended bath with a split-second's inattention. DAMHIKT I assume that the stern of your canoe is squatting unacceptably under power and causing your problem. If so, the solution is to move the weight in the canoe forward to get more of the hull in the water. This could be a tiller extension and moving yourself forward, or a passenger seated well forward, or cargo well forward. I would not expect a leeboard to help with steering. Wayne

A lovely choice. I love those old Edwin Monk designs. The skiff you show will do better for rowing than for motoring, due to the amount of rocker aft. I have a similar skiff, a Ken Swan

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Thanks, Craig. With your explanation, and following your link, and looking carefully at photos on this forum and on the B&B site, I see what you mean about the aluminum tubes. It is curious to me that the material list for Belhaven seems very complete, yet materials for spars is entirely missing. Wayne

Okay, in looking further afield in the B&B web site, I found a description and photos of the

Good morning, Mike. And thanks for tipping me off about Belhaven a while back. I think I have already read every thread on this forum that mentioned Belhaven.

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