Thanks, fellows, for the advice and guidance.
By far, my personal preference is to let the wood look like wood. I do not want to "paint" my frame if I don't need to. I want it to be obvious what my boat is made of, that's part of the attraction.
But, just to make sure the base is thouroghly covered.... the opinions given concerning cypress stringers not warping, apply even to kiln dried lumber. Correct? (Sorry, my ADD brain just has to ask ?)
Frankly, I am leaning toward using tung or linseed oil. Easier application and handling of the work pieces after coating, easier cleanup, cost, avialiabity..... and they would simply enhance the natural beauty of the wood.
It also seems to me that the oils would provide reasonably good protection from moisture while allowing the wood to "breath" and let the wood shed any excess moisture that it did happen to absorb.
The supplier I found for the cypress is in Austin, TX. (Only about 1/2 hour from my house. Local pick up and no hassel that comes with shipping. Yay!)
Their focus is on the professional, custom cabinet builder so, I am hoping that translates into clear, knot free lumber.
They have various lengths of rough sawn cypress in 4/4" @ $4.58/Bf and 8/4" @ 5.18/Bf. I am hoping get my stringers from these with minimum waste and scarfing and, minimum cost.
Kudzu,
In your post in FAQ regarding what ply to use for frames and what to avoid you mention MDO as good alternative to marine grade ply. Is there anything I need to be looking for to rule in (or out) a particular MDO product as suitable?
The MDO is considerably less costly than marine (1/2" is $62/ sheet vs $105). I really don't mind the extra cost for the marine grade if that is truly superior. But, if I can get suitable MDO for approximately 1/2 the cost..... well, you know. ?
And, I will definatly inquire about the source and material for their marine ply.
Marty