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MrMartyr

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Everything posted by MrMartyr

  1. I Searched the inventory on the website for the supplier in Austin. They describe their 1/2" marine ply as: Grade 6566, Imported, Core Veneers (species not specified), and Aquatek-Meranti. This would the $105/sheet stuff. From what read that night about the BS 6566 and 1088 standards, I don't think am very impressed this stuff. Especially for the cost. They do have some 1088 grade but, only in 1/4". For some reason I had some, almost "mystical" impression in my little brain about the Baltic Birch plywood. BUT when Dave mentioned, above, that it is commonly used for cabinetry, I began to unlock myself a little. Thanks Dave!! I was clear to me that you guys get very good results with the Baltic ply but struggled to understand how. It's cabinet plywood, intended for interior use, right?..... and you folks are using to build boats. That just don't make no sense at all. Then I found that that it is constructed with WATERPROOF GLUE! AH-HAH!! Now I understand, a little better, why it works so well for you guys. And guess what.... My store in Austin sells a Baltic Birch cabinet plywood as described below. Sounds very familiar, doesnt it? I called yesterday to check the price...... 1/2", 5'×5' sheet, right around $27. 1/2" Grade Size Origin Color Core Cut Note BB/BB- 5x5 Russia - BB - Baltic Birch Core RC - Rotary Cut Contains limited football patches in both sides Now all I need is to go by me some ply, some cypress lumber and get to work...... after I get a few other projects around the house wrapped up that is. Thanks for the guidance and the patience folks. Marty
  2. Thanks, fellows, for the advice and guidance. By far, my personal preference is to let the wood look like wood. I do not want to "paint" my frame if I don't need to. I want it to be obvious what my boat is made of, that's part of the attraction. But, just to make sure the base is thouroghly covered.... the opinions given concerning cypress stringers not warping, apply even to kiln dried lumber. Correct? (Sorry, my ADD brain just has to ask 😧) Frankly, I am leaning toward using tung or linseed oil. Easier application and handling of the work pieces after coating, easier cleanup, cost, avialiabity..... and they would simply enhance the natural beauty of the wood. It also seems to me that the oils would provide reasonably good protection from moisture while allowing the wood to "breath" and let the wood shed any excess moisture that it did happen to absorb. The supplier I found for the cypress is in Austin, TX. (Only about 1/2 hour from my house. Local pick up and no hassel that comes with shipping. Yay!) Their focus is on the professional, custom cabinet builder so, I am hoping that translates into clear, knot free lumber. They have various lengths of rough sawn cypress in 4/4" @ $4.58/Bf and 8/4" @ 5.18/Bf. I am hoping get my stringers from these with minimum waste and scarfing and, minimum cost. Kudzu, In your post in FAQ regarding what ply to use for frames and what to avoid you mention MDO as good alternative to marine grade ply. Is there anything I need to be looking for to rule in (or out) a particular MDO product as suitable? The MDO is considerably less costly than marine (1/2" is $62/ sheet vs $105). I really don't mind the extra cost for the marine grade if that is truly superior. But, if I can get suitable MDO for approximately 1/2 the cost..... well, you know. 😊 And, I will definatly inquire about the source and material for their marine ply. Marty
  3. OK folks, here goes. I am gathering materials for my 1st skin boat and I have found a local source for marine grade ply even, MDO, for the frames and high quality CVG Cypress to use for my stringers. I was really excited to learn (from the Googles, of course) that Cypress is actually a very good wood for boats due to it relative weight and its rot resistance. But, the cavet is that this cypress is kiln dried and the supplier warns that it MUST be well sealed to prevent warping as is absorbs moisture. I've searched the threads here and haven't found this specific question addressed yet...... is Kilz (water or oil based) a suitable product to coat and seal the frames ans stringers from water intrusion before skinning the boat? Other than the obvious issue with it being white and covering up the natural wood tone are there any reasons to not use Kilz on the frame? (SIDEBAR....Has anybody tried tinting Kilz???) Are there preferences for oil or water based? Why? I'm looking forward to seeing what the experience has to say. Blessings, Marty
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