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shellback

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About shellback

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Kyneton. Australia
  1. Well thanks for your interest people - very helpful. I bit the bullet and invested in a minn kota today so have to wire up and hopefully astound the wharf watchers with our relaxed and skillfull departures and arrivals at the docks. Bill
  2. I have spliced ends in ss wire to form eyes using a die to compress the swages as in a plumber's flaring tool. these flaring tools have a range of hole sizes for different copper pipe dimensions - so bang in your copper swage and screw up the vice voila ze job is done !!!! with luck bill
  3. I tried Frank's thumbnail method so now for something else Bill
  4. I again come with cap in hand seeking info. I wish to fit an electric trolling motor to my Weekender. A salt water Minn Kota seems to be the go. Searching back through the archives it seems that about 25 to 30 lbs thrust would do for docking mainly - so far so good ! The ads seem to mention 36 inch as being the smallest length/depth. measuring my boat about 27 in would do. Can the length/depth be altered or do I just run a very deep prop ??? thanks Bill
  5. sincere thanks for your interest and information. I will digest all these ideas and make a start on some mods this weekend - if i am not fighting bush fires cheers Bill
  6. I am into my third or fourth summer of sailing my Weekender.- "boom boom" Some problems I experience are - the gaff jaws tangling the shrouds the main will not come down without much exertion (I am using the plastic pipe rings as per plans) this situation is complicated if the shrouds are caught in the gaff I do point up to take the load off the rings. When coming into dock - would it be the norm to drop the main and come in on the jib alone if there was a blow on ?? I have a furler on the jib. The sailing is good but man do we have a performance leaving and returning to the dock - amazing convolutions the Missus and I undertake for the entertainment of the general public !! cheers Bill in Melbourne
  7. Since we are well into our second season with our Weekender "Boom Boom" I felt I should report. Firstly I would like to thank the forum for all the discussion, tips and advice. For me, it made building possible as the plans leave quite a bit to be desired. But I could always come back to the old blokes who had been down the track before me, thanks again. I am critical of the Stevenson organisation for not, at least, correcting errors in plan measurements which they are still selling. It was my second boat and took a bit over a year to build (weekends only - which was appropriate.) It all went smoothly but I thank the man who invented epoxy and the other bloke who came up with the battery operated screw driving drill. The boat has stunning good looks and is a credit to the Stevensons. It is light, economic and possible to build for your average citizen, shallow draft, comes about and handles well and even has a kennell and no room for bags of "hanger ons' I wonder about major modifications. Perhaps people who need those should seek another design. I am talking about altering hull dimensions and that type of thing. I did some mods which I regard as minor diversions from the plan but I would definitely do again as they have proved to be of benefit to me, they are as follows. Make the lazarette, compartments behind the seat backs, the forward compartment and the drink box at the cabin entry all water tight for flotation. Extend the mast base by 8 inches. Saves the boom bashing your loaf. Hence our name "Boom Boom' Have reef points put into the mainsail. Makes all the difference on the gusty days. Use jib sheets instead of a clubfoot. Saves the 9inch eyebolt through the bowsprit and gives the forrard hand more to do. Use a tiller instead of the wheel business. It is comfortably only a two person boat and there is room for a tiller and it enables the lazarette to be sealed. I put a small hatch in the lazarette deck for access. I weighted the rudder so that it can ride up in shallows. Three lead blocks were inserted into holes cut into the skeg up near the mast. They each weighed about 16 lbs so about 50 lbs in total. The lead was free from tyre services, who were happy to get rid of their used tyre balance weights. I melted them down in batches with a couple of blow torches and poured into a mould I knocked up from scrap pine. The blocks were epoxied into position. I poured the blocks in layers as I could not keep a lot a lot of metal molten at one time. The layers stuck together well
  8. shellback

    running ??

    I thank those who have replied to my queries directly and the many who have provided me with info through the posts without my having to ask. One more - when running before the wind it seems that all sails are let out but it is possible to have the jib extended on the opposite side to the main (gull winged ????) my question is, what are the ifs and buts of this and where does a Weekender fit into the plan ?? The following attachment appealed to me, it may be old hat for some - and abit stretched but for what it is worth ! Bill [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]
  9. Could somebody help with the following? I read the posts regularly but become confused at times. 1. If it is not a good idea to cleat sheets then how do I handle the main, jib and tiller at once? - together with any other duties assigned by the mate. 2. I have gathered from the W.E. plans what a "clubfoot" is - but what is its purpose ? some people seem to get on better without it ?? my thanks Bill
  10. John I would be interested in your method of fitting the round portholes. thanks Bill
  11. comment please: could the rub rails be fitted after the hull has been glassed ? it occurs to me that the rub rail could fend off a brush with a wharf and be easier to fix without a coating of glass. thanks Bill
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