Jcecil01

So, I did some research, and decided to take a chance at applying another clear coat over the Rust-Oleum paint. I opted for a Marine Spar Varnish which had to be special ordered off of Amazon. I applied 4 very thin coats. The stuff is oil based and kind of nasty and hard to find. I chose it because it was designed to be very durable but also have a little flex to it. So far, it has worked out great and seems to be much more durable that the Rust-Oleum alone. I will add some rub strips over the winter months as well.

It is just damage to the paint. I can see the texture of the fabric where the paint has worn away. I will try to get some photos posted in the next day or so.

Thanks Jeff, I am definitely not taking this on whitewater. I have only taken this boat on major tributaries. Mostly is has been on lakes. I have not scrapped/dragged the bottom of the boat on low water over rocks or anything like that. I had a hard breach on a ramp in heavy winds that may have contributed to this. I think some brass strips would solve most of the problem as the wear spots I am most concerned about are along the stern keel. I am going to look into putting a finish coat over the enamel but I need to find something pretty tough that will stick to enamel. I have some knowledgeable craftsman looking into some products for me. I thought I would through it out here too for suggestions. Better safe than sorry right? John

Hello, I finished a short shot a couple of months ago. I absolutely love it! The boat is amazing in the water. However, I not too happy with the durability of the coating i put on the boat. It is probably my fault for not doing more research and tailoring the craft to the demands I am likely to put it under. I paddle a lot of lakes here in Iowa but also will take the boat on larger rivers. I have not put what i feel to be a lot of stress on it with dragging and bumping into rocks but there has been a little. I will take the boat on medium sized rivers when water levels are appropriate. I feel like i have been careful. However, after about 8 outings i am starting to see some of the paint being scraped off in a couple of places. I am looking for advice on how to protect augment my paint to make it stronger. If i need to re-skin the boat i would consider doing that. I used the premium dacron fabric. I did 5 coats of Rustoleum oil enamel to seal the boat. I did not install brass rub rails which in retrospect would solve much of the problem. Is it too late to do this? Is there something i can put over the enamel to give it a more abrasion resistance? Any comments are welcome. John Cecil Des Moines Iowa

I have a 1958 Tandem Folbot Super folder. Original vinyl skin too! I have done about 50 trips in it since acquiring it a few years back. A few have been solo trips with a lot of gear up front. However, mostly I have done tandem paddling. It does take some coordinating and can be a little frustrating. Even with a less experienced partner, other boats have a hard time keeping up. The boat is fast, very stable, durable, and can haul 500 lbs. Two grown men would have a real struggle rolling this boat. I have just finished building a short shot. I am working on a design to replicate this boat as a non folder. I am probably in over my head but I will let you know how I progress. John Cecil

I took the short shot out for it's first trip. It was beautiful in the water. I used the premium 6oz poly fabric and really struggled to get it stretched over the boat and it was pretty obvious there was not a lot of shrink. I made a bad incision and ruined my fabric. So I tried out Dave Gentry's side rail method for applying the skin. So this is not Pure Kudzu craft bit I am super happy with it. Cypress stringers with Baltic Birch cross frames. I only have to finish the hand holds and I feel good about it.

I am building the Short Shot. What I have run into is that the cross frame at the back of the coaming is not a level surface. Also, the deck beams behind it are not at the same height with the middle beam being higher. I thought I could notch the middle deck beam to allow the coaming to sit on top of the two outer deckbeams and underneath the center one. If I rest the back of the coaming with out doing this is seems impossible that it would be stable enough. Does anyone have a photo of how the coaming is supposed to rest on the short shot? I am just about done lashing the boat but have not started the rear deck beams as I am unsure how to proceed.

I am struggling with the placing as well. This photo does show what i need to see. What I am wondering is how the front of the coaming will be stable enough? Does the skin of the boat add some additional stability to the coaming? It seems to be so precariously balancing up in front.