davidpm

Thank you all that makes sense.

That makes complete sense, thanks.

Thanks that makes sense. Ask around and select the best. A couple of years ago I found some 1x4 Mahogany like wood (who knows where from) for decking completely clear. I dried it and resawed and milled it into kitchen cabinets. Same basic process. I'm buying the real Okume ply however but am too embarrassed to say what I'm planning on paying for it.

I've never used epoxy before so I'm trying to get the rules down. This is what I think i have so far. Thicken if: Needed for gap filling for example chine joints or tabbing. For Fillet or mini fillet for tacking chine When clamping two pieces of wood so it will not squeeze out. Straight (unthickened) For: coating plywood Painting on tacky fillet so fiberglass tape can be pressed into it and whetted out. I'm not sure what to use to for: Filling the weave of the fiberglass tape whetting out the tape and wood for the but joint. Any advise would be appreciated.

The plans mention spruce and fir. The only spruce I know of at the lumber yard is furring strips which is very knotty. Is that OK? Maybe for transom stiffener. The gunwales have to be clear of course and I think clear fir 1 x 4 for decks is available. Is that the stuff? I haven't been to a lumber yard in some time but this is what i remember. Number 2 pine is available but that was not mentioned in the plans.

Just got the SD10N plans and noticed what seems to me to be an interesting detail. On the hull assembly page the detail for the bottom attachment to the sides shows the bottom overlapping the side instead of the traditional, for stitch and glue, inside corner to inside corner detail. I see why is is done this way, maybe stronger and easier to do using temp nails. My assumption is that the cut lines are laid out with this type of lap in mind making the boat a half inch less wide. In fact the detail shows the bottom overlapping the sides by, it looks like a 1/8" or so. I suspect that that 1/8" is achieved by cutting outside the cut line. Since I noticed this detail I'll certainly do it the way the plan shows but am I right that I'm obsessing over 1/4s and the boat will go together either way and still look good? So what I suspect happens is that the bottom is cut on the line from the stem back about a foot, so the side bottom but joint is accurate, then you let the saw drift an eighth or so out side the line the rest of the way on the bottom pieces the chine side only for ease of assembly. Did I read the plans right or miss something?

What would be the recommended size for a spindrift to store on deck of a 30' Catalina? I'm assuming a nested model.