davidpm

Due to popular demand I have posted the apartment pictures. ;D http://www.messing-about.com/forums/index.php?topic=6096.0

Kitchen cabinets with same wood and a copper counter top.

We got to swapping building stories on the B&B forum and I was asked to post pictures of an apartment I built a couple of years ago. All this lumber that looks like maghony is really 1x4 porch decking sold at the local truevalue for about $1.30 a running foot. Don't know what it really is, probably a meranti. It is clear but has a lot of variation in color which I like because it it makes it look old. I finished with Penofin. The stairs is a circular stairs but with a double pole. But you never saw one like this before. The tub has no shower curtain. It is not needed as the rainforest head pointing straight down does not splash at all.

Thank you all. Just the opposite of what someone who has never done it before would have guessed. Although come varnish touch up time I get to try it the other way.

Not sure what you are saying. If you varnish first and paint over the varnish I would be concerned about the paint sticking. Also I don

What is the best way to attach the sandpaper to the long board. Contact cement, rubber cement?

I suspect you do the painting first. But while the fairing is going on I'll bet it works best to epoxy coat the wood that will be bright because if you get a little paint in the wrong place it's easier and safer to scrape or sand it off off the epoxy rather than the raw wood. So the order of events as I imagine it not ever doing it before is: 1. Sand everything 2. epoxy Coat everything once 3. Fair surfaces to be painted 4. epoxy Coat everything again 5. Third coat epoxy on bright work 6. Paint 7. Varnish Is that about right?

If I'm asking too many questions or my questions are too dumb please let me know. I'm certainly capable of making my own mistakes. I was just hoping to not make boring mistakes. I have a friend with a 30' Catalina we sail out of Westbroook CT. I sailed some 30 years ago, lived aboard that sort of thing. Started sailing with a friend last season on a 27" Catalina about 4 times a week. Kids are grown and mostly gone but my son is around if I really need him. I live in Madison CT and anyone comming this way is welcome to check with me to see if we can free up a spare room if you are in the neighborhood. The wooden boat show is comming soon and I plan on attending. I discovered Graham

Welcome aboad. Be sure to post pictures we all like pictures.

Transom in on the boat

What do you guys think of using the twist snaps. also have to decide size of loop and number of snaps per loop.

90 percent of time my new sd10n with be either in the garage or on deck or at a beach. Rub rail protection is suppled by varnish in these cases. But for the few times we actually use it as a tender for the big boat and it may bump the boat or dock is their any kind of temporary protection that can be snapped or tied on? I was thinking that a semi-permeant solution would be to tie a 3/4" line to the rub rail with small line that goes through holes either horizontally through the hull or vertically through the gunnel. Don't like the idea of drilling all those holes and the varnish between the rope and the gunnel would get nasty fast. Would look cool however.

I'm planning on doing the hull etc with LPU and brightwork, transom, rub rail etc with varnish. What do you do first and why?

I've got the pieces cut for laminating the transom on the sp10n. 1/8" by 1 1/8" maghony. Any tips on holding it down till the epoxy sets? Vaccum bagging is of course the best way but I'm not ready to buy a compressor for 2 square feet. Maybe next week.

Looks like good stuff but for a different purpose. The spartite is to form a water tight seal. In this case I just need a reasonably accurately shaped hole. Their FAQ mentioned using petrolum jelly for a release which is an interresting tip.

Do you use any release other than builders plastic? Unfortunatly I belt sanded the flats so i have no chips.

I'm thinking of making my own sail for the SD10N Other threads have mentioned how hard it is to drop the sail if it has a full lenght sock (what is the correct term). How about making two inch cloth strips long enough to go arround the mast and fasten back at the luff with standard sail cover twist snaps? Space them about six inches apart and the sail should be easy to snap on, reef and drop Yes? Any problems? I envision having the 30' boat at anchor and the kinds playing the SD and wanting to stop for a few minutes for lunch. Be nice to be able to drop the sail. http://www.rochfordsupply.com/product_listing.asp_Q_CatID_E_411_A_SubCatID_E_446_A_ProdID_E_3483

I'll give that a try

OK how about after the third coat of epoxy I knock off the bumps with a scraper, sand with 320 so all the shiny is gone and it is smooth. If their are some small pits left can I go ahead and varnish and expect the varnish to fill and level ok?

That's odd. I donn't see the stiffeners on the 10N plans. Graham?

That's what I thought.

OK I got it. How about 207 hardener vs 205 hardener? Worth the difference?

I've uses builders plastic as a release film but never saran wrap. It may too thin.

Makes sense about the white interior. I'll probably go gray instead. Nice pictures. What are those little strips on the floor.? What did you use for paint and non-skid? Where you happy with it?

The first two coats were sanded smooth before the next coat was applied. Is it normal for every coat to have those little bumps?