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DreadBiscuit

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Everything posted by DreadBiscuit

  1. @Abyssdncr, of course I'm overthinking it - that's what I do! LOL. I just do not want to make some critical error that's going to compromise the entire skin, so I'm trying to make sure my bases are covered. Thanks all for the suggestions. I am excited to start a new build thread soon for this boat - I approached it a bit differently this time. Look for that coming up.
  2. Does anyone have any pictures, videos or detailed information on how to sew up to and away from hatch openings? I am building my second boat - a Vardo - and will be doing the double-corded stitch on it with two hatches. One in the front and one in the back, both centered. I looked around for a while, and I have found some vague information on placement, and building the structure for them...But nothing on finishing the holes up and mounting the rings.
  3. Do the precut frames have routed edges?
  4. Hey Andy, Thanks- I am very torn between whether or not I'd like to build a vardo next. It was a rewarding process but SOO time consuming! my foot pegs were not in the right placement there. My knees are much lower in typical daily paddling. I do suffer from lack of knee height though as I have long legs. Hence the vardo thought.
  5. Alright, if the creator advises against it then I will leave it be! Thanks for the quick response Jeff!
  6. Hi All, I have been looking around and could not find a solid answer.... How hard would it be to add the laminated beam to an existing short shot? I have many tools, but if anyone has tried and would totally advise against it, then I won't try it; but it looks simple enough to cut the frames accordingly, add the new beam and re-lash it into place without too much hassle. More knee room would be awesome!
  7. Right before putting the deck rigging on.
  8. Random picture time...Here was the first float/no leak test. Finished deck rigging. I followed a method I found on youtube that doesn't require any rigging to be mounted. I drilled holes into the gunwales. Each section (front and back) is one continuous length of bungee.
  9. Sorry, i have not been on here in a while. @jshaley, yes it is. It wasn't the best strongback, but it wasn't bad either. It was definitely an easy and cheap way to get the boat straight. @NY_Rocking_Chairs @NY Dave Looks like you're both close. I'm in Honeoye Falls now but I work in Henrietta. I have another friend with a kudzu kayak in Chili/Gates. Once the weather turns, we should all get together for a paddle!
  10. Sidenote, I finally weighed the boat. 34.6 lbs empty. Holy moly that's light!
  11. FInally posting this has also motivated me to finish painting scales on the bottom and now I am working on the top and some deck rigging. I will post pictures of those endeavors as soon as I am finished, hopefully tomorrow.
  12. OH yeah, I almost forgot the notorious FROG photos! Here they are, and also one or two of the footpegs mounted.
  13. Here are some pictures of the skinning. I used the...dang I forgot the name of the method. I ran two lengths of paracord under the fabric and then sewed under them to pull the skin tight. I really liked this method. As you can see, I stabbed myself once at the very beginning, hence the blood stain, but that was the only time. You can see the temporary supports on the inside of the coaming to hold it up, but I changed those later to something a bit smaller.
  14. I am in Rochester, but I have paddled in the ADK a lot. I plan to be going there again soon, I just have to get some racks for my new car so I can take the yak up there again.
  15. First lashing done! OOps, it's on the wrong side...this ended up happening a few times throughout the boat, but so far no one has noticed but me! Pictures follow of the first frame lashed up, and then the bow lashed up (which was a long time in the future after the first frame...really time traveling now!) We are in early June 2016 at this point.
  16. The first frames mounted to the alignment frames and screwed in. Then I bungee'd the gunwales and some stringers. Once all the stringers were bungee'd it started to look like a boat!
  17. Here we have the coaming being clamped together while the glue dries, me routing some frame pieces after cutting them out, and finally the strongback together with the keel placed into the alignment frames. She's coming along quickly now! For reference, this was around May 2016, so approximately two months after first cutting material. She took up my entire dining room and stuck out over the couch in the living room (behind the lens in the last picture). There was enough room to walk around the boat to get into the kitchen, but it was a conscience effort not to bump the strongback while stringers and frames were being placed.
  18. Next was scarfing all the stringers into 18 ft sections. Then I glued the plans onto the 1/2" baltic birch. as you can see, the plan with this boat was to cut the coamings out of the plywood as well. I would love to build another boat and do laminated coamings on it.
  19. Beginning in March of 2016 I started cutting cedar into stringers. NOTE: I built this in my townhouse apartment while pursuing my Master's Degree and working part time. It became a late night unwinding project. I had a roommate that helped with a lot of it which helped tremendously! I would not want to build one of these solo without a lot more tools and a shop!
  20. So I will begin with the end product (well about 90% finished) and then tell the story/build history of this wonderful boat! First things first though; thanks to everyone here who indirectly answered questions about this build by posting your own builds, and especially thanks to Jeff for the designs! I have not named this boat, but it is a Short Shot coming in at 16' 7" total length with the premium 6oz polyester coated with Rustoleum oil-based paint in blue and silver. I actually finished it in early August of last year (2016) as my goal was to have it ready for an annual paddle trip with the local boy scout troop I volunteer with. I did two, 3-4 mile paddles a few days before the 4 day and 50+ mile trip across all of the Saranac Lakes in the Adirondack State Park. It handled beautifully, and has zero leaks since day one! Without further ado, here she is in her current glory (well a year ago, after fresh paint). I began to paint silver scales down the length of the bottom, but ran out of time before the big paddle trip. I plan to finish them this year now that it's getting warm again and also do blue scales down the top on the silver base. This image was taken after I moved from the apartment into a house with a garage. I got the frame built and skinned before the move and then painted it at the new place. You will see all of this in later posts. BTW, I have tons of pictures. If anyone wants to see anything in particular, just ask and I can upload any others I have or even go take more pictures.
  21. Just curious, What is the reason you say to go with 5/8" instead of 7/8"? Is it just weight savings or is there some other underlying factor(s)? Was talking to a friend and he said just leave it 7/8 and it will stick out a bit farther. Any issues with this? I'm not a boat guy by any means, so i'm not sure of the implications. I just enjoy kayaking and building things.
  22. Thanks guys! I have an extensive carpentry and (somewhat-basic) woodworking background (framing a wall doesn't have to be super accurate...my experience has been those where + or - 1/4 " isn't that big of a deal) and the idea of running them through the table saw at 5/8" occurred to me after the post, thanks Jeff. I definitely did not plan on notching the frames deeper unless someone (Jeff) told me explicitly it's ok. As an engineer, I know all bout structural integrity and dispersing loads. I was mostly concerned about the added weight. I have zero experience using hand planes, however. I think I'll try to table saw first, then if i have trouble I may ask for resources for planing methods or tools. But I think the table saw will be fine. I really appreciate everyone's input and prompt responses. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will have some photos up with a new build thread. Still in graduate school, so it will be slow going while I work around my schedule.
  23. First time poster; Long time follower. I'm finally getting ready to build my ShortShot. I have found 1 x 6 WRC that I can rip down for stringers. It is actually 7/8" thick, of course. I known the plans call for 5/8" but I do not have access to a planer. Is it alright to keep 7/8" thickness on all stringers and just have the stringers stick out farther from the frames (still cut notches in the frames at 5/8" deep to keep from compromising frame integrity) or should I cut notches 1/4" deeper to accommodate the thicker stringers?
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