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Bzonic

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About Bzonic

  • Birthday 04/19/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cleveland, OH
  • Interests
    Bicycle racing, retro/vintage arcade machines, target shooting, wood related projects

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  1. Thanks guys. I like knowing that there is the possibility to have the source of the wood plane it down. Had not thought of that. Also nice to know going the 3/4" route is doable. Maybe the 3/4" weight penalty is worth it for the added durability, strength, and rigidity.
  2. Thanks for the info. Depending on what nonimal size material I find the ripping looks to be the route I need to go. Although I am curious if I could just adjust my frames to accept the .75 stringers if I find some 1 x material. That extra 1/8" of stringer material would add weight obviously but I'm wondering if there are any other adverse effects of doing this. Thanks
  3. I’m a bit reluctant to ask this question because I must be missing something obvious. So for the Curlew stringers that are 5/8” x 1” and 5/8” x 1.5” what size wood are people buying to cut these from? Obviously the length is dictated by the kayak length but I’m a bit stumped on the 5/8”. I have not been out shopping for the red cedar I plan to use but I’m assuming that planks of 1x8,10,12 are what I will find? With the 1” thickness really being .75” how are people getting the needed 5/8” that the plans call for? I was hoping I would only have to cut the one side down and not have to rip a sliver off the entire stringer length. Thanks guys!
  4. I was reading another thread and this place was mentioned so I checked out the site and it looks like it is the correct material. A quantity of three 20" x 60" pieces shipped to your door for about 70 bucks. Maybe a bit pricey compared to what others have bought it for but having it arrive at your door is nice. Am I missing something here before I pull the trigger on this? http://www.woodworkerssource.com/12balpack3.html
  5. I'm just about to start a curlew build and I'm glad to see your post. Great job on the attention to detail. I'm the same way and fear it will take me 2 years as well to finish mine. The process is part of the fun as most of us would agree I think. Anyway, I need to further look into this Corey's Goop stuff. I was going to use Dura Tuff to give mine that natural look but maybe your approach is better. Curious if you used the standard weight poly and if you had any application challeges.
  6. Thanks for the heads up on the potential for grief during the application process. I'm curious if you have an isolated leak area as well. I really like the translucent look and your confirmation of how good it looks makes me think I will stick with my plans to use the Dura Tuff. I don't know what a readily available runner up would be anyway.
  7. Ok great - if I don't plan to skin the boat for several months should I go ahead and place an order sooner than later due to the skin material drought mentioned in the other thread? Sounds like you are investigating so new materials that have much potential but if you think the 11 oz poly is a very good choice I will get some now from you. Thanks again!!
  8. Thanks Rich - I will be definitely be coming back to your tips when I'm ready to sew.
  9. Hello all – I’ve read Jeff’s book and just about every page of these forums so I feel pretty good about the Curlew endeavor I’m about to undertake. The one thing I’m noticing as I digest all the good info here and in the books is that there seems to be an evolution of technique/materials used as better methods and materials become identified. While it’s great for that to be occurring it does leave me with some indecision as to the best approach to take for my materials choice. I’m wondering if I can get some opinions on my approach. My goal is to have a really durable and tight skinned boat so I’m using the 11 oz poly skin, Dura tuf for sealant, and the double cord stich method from Jeff’s video. Please chime in if you think I will encounter any problems with this combination. Thanks! Brian in Cleveland OH
  10. Greetings - first time poster and about to build a Curlew from the KudzuCraft book I just bought. I'm also trying to track down the plywood mentioned above so when I saw that MKS was in the northeast Ohio area I wanted to chime in. I live in Garfield Heights so I was curious what supplier MKS was referring to. MKS - can you tell me the name of that place? Thanks!
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