ZendoDeb

I am considering a build of a foam-core epoxy boat. Done at least with vacuum-bagging if not vacuum-infusion. But before I commit to large project I was hoping to find a smaller one to avoid very expensive beginners mistakes. Failing that, I may try my hand a custom hard-top to replace the Bimini on my cruising boat.

Are there CNC cut kits for anything aside for the CS17? In particular for the 15? Are there any plans for producing any more cutting files?

Thanks for all the replies. The suggestions that call for using a table saw imply I have a table saw I trust to cut a 3/8 batten (or thereabouts.) I guess I will try the plastic-wood trim idea. (I am trying to build a catspaw dinghy - not the Queen Mary.)

Got my plans yesterday - Two Paw 8. Think I have a local source for real marine grade ply - will save shipping costs! (The other "marine ply" I found turned out to be fir. Don't want fir.) So it says when transferring curved lines to the sheets, to use a long, flexible piece of wood. What works? Have everything else I need except a reliable jig saw. (The old Craftsman got caught in a basement flood.) Hope to start this weekend.

If you take a (decent) class, you should spend 1 whole day doing man overboard drills. To do it yourself: Get a fender, extra life jacket, or other float, and drop it overboard. (Don't throw it.) Then practice going through the motions of getting the boat turned around, behind the float, pointed upwind and stopped next to the float. Do this again and again and again and again until you can literally do in your sleep. Then do it regularly. The American Sailing Associations book on sailing has pretty clear instructions of doing MOB turn (figure 8 really) and stop. Next best choice is to drop sails and motor over to them. Can you see them well enough to not hit them? If not, starting the motor may not be your best choice. On the boats I usually sail - bigger boats - it is common to tie yourself to the boat with a harness and tether. Especially if your other crew is asleep. (What if you wake up and he is gone? How do you work back down your course? Hint you need to know what compass course has been steered) I always have jacklines out, I know where my harness and tether are, and I usually tie myself down. Of course I single hand a lot and no one is going to come back and get me. People never go overboard in calm seas on sunny days. If they got hit with a boom - not an issue on the CS boats really - they are probably unconscious at least and likely hurt. A boat hook can snag a harness or a belt. You need some way to haul them aboard. Best to say in the boat if possible.

The Anderson Bailer will handle spray (or some rain) while on the move. What do you do about serious rainfall? Either while underway, or beached/anchored? Not that I ever plan on sailing in bad weather, but it can sneak up you pretty fast in Florida. (I am probably looking most closely at the 17 all things considered, but the other 2 are still interesting, but for different reasons.)

I know the finish won't stay showroom. But the last few painting efforts I have been painting over 1-part polyurethane. Which limits me to using 1-part paints. I need to get a little experience with 2 part linear paints before I undertake a large project (summer or fall). I want to try Sterling - supposed to have been specially formulated for rolling/tipping. I also may be able to borrow an LPHV spray system and an air respirator. I really want to try spraying Algrip or Imron. The dinghy project is the perfect test bed, because while I want it to look good, I don't really care all that much about the looks of final result. I do care about the sturdiness of the dink. Thanks for the info. I still am considering options. I would like a Spindrift, but I think space-on-deck is going to dictate a small dinghy, and load requirements will probably push me to a pram.

Am finally getting ready to start boat-building after a few set backs. I want to start with a dinghy. I need one from my sailboat, the price is right, and I want to try something small. The epoxy doesn't scare me but I want to use it as a chance to learn how to get a "showroom finish" on the final product. I am looking at several designs including some of your nesting designs. (I have to take another set of measurements to be sure what I can carry on deck. I am pretty sure I can carry a nesting dinghy... the cutter rig is nice, but it limits room on the foredeck.) Anyway, my question is about how strong they are. While I don't intend to use it in horrible weather, when you are cruising you use the dinghy as you use your car at home. Sometimes you have to go out in bad weather. I am concerned that they will separate where the 2 sections are joined. How is this joint typically held together and what has the experience been with them? Probably will build something like one of the Catspaw pram-style dinghies to maximize capacity per unit length.

If your boat has a cabin or any belowdecks accomidation a dark hull will be HOT HOT HOT. If you are going to be in warm weather - I am in Florida - you will be happy with white. When I repaint my decks I am going with white, and an off-white for the non-skid. The PO painted the non-skid a light grey and it will take the skin off your feet in the summer. The reason all the GRP hulls are white is that it just makes sense in warm weather.

I am looking to build a nesting dinghy. The Two-paw would be my first choice given the way it stows. But I am not familiar with how a pram-style dinghy performs in rough water. I believe the Spindrift would handle waves better by virtue of the bow shape. It isn't really an issue if it is "better." But how does the blunt bow of the Catspaw behave? I would be using this dinghy as my ships tender during an extended cruise, and don't want to have an extra wet ride. Given how my deck is layed out, finding room for Spindrift will be a challenge.