Chris Martin

Yes it is BB. It also seemed to have something to do with how the 9 layers are glued. If you looked at just one form several edges or sides would have virtually no splinters and other sides splinters. I am off to Home Depot this morning for an 18 tpi 3/8 inch band saw blade and will be curious if it is better. I also plan to try some saw blades made for cutting steel that I will try.

Thanks for the feedback. It was not excessive splintering ( 1/8 to 1/4) but was hoping for only a slight fuzz. My Delta benchtop band saw needs a little tuning and attention so maybe that will help also before I get too close to the lines for the final cut.

1. Took the Shad plans that I got from Jeff, ironed them with an iron on low heat to get the folds flatter. (probably overkill) 2. Cut the papers out and glued them on with the 3m Super 77 that Jeff says on pg 40 in his book. I was worried about the glue drying too fast and it does dry pretty quickly but if you work from the middle of the paper outward it goes down well without wrinkles or bubbles. You do need to be careful with position as peeling the paper back up did not seem like an option. Small lift backward of a couple inches maybe. 3. Anyway I used some 10 tpi Bosch "super clean" blades in the saber saw to rough the forms from the 5x5 sheet. I stayed about an inch away from the true line since I planned to use the Band Saw for more precision. I was not pleased with the amount of underside splintering so I am wondering if I should use a much higher tooth count maybe even use blades made for cutting steel with a very high tpi. I am thinking to even change out my Band saw blade to one for cutting steel before I do the final trimming to near the line. Comments or ideas? Chris Martin Houston, Texas

You can find a lot of good information - videos and pdf files here http://www.carvegp.com/ For length basically stand flat on the floor and reach as high as you can with your right hand and curl the last digits of your fingers - basic length is then from floor to the curl. Loom length - bend your arms at your elbows 90 degrees outstretched and pin your elbows to your sides. Hold your hands flat in a motorcycle grip. The distance between the center of your palms is roughly the loom length and where the taper starts. Your pinky and right fingers should be able to feel the tapers for proper blade index.

I have several Greenland paddles that I made, a Mitchell Horizon Greenland paddle and the Toksook which might be similiar to what you described. "Derek Hutchinson designed the Toksook paddle. According to Derek the blade is a willow leaf style based on the paddles used by the Nootak and Kotzibue paddlers (Western Alaska). " http://www.useakayak.org/equipment/toksook.html Personally if I am going for nice leisure paddle I love the Greenland paddle but if I am in surf zone or in heavy chop I still prefer the wider surface area of the Toksook for braces and stern rudder strokes.

If anyone lives in the vicinity I just got some 5x5, 1/2 Baltic Birch for $33.95 per sheet and $36.75 with tax. If you need it they also have, 1/4, 3/8 and 3/4 inch. Clark's Hardwood and Lumber 700 E 5-1/2 St. Houston, Texas, 77007 The "Shad" begins, Chris Martin