JeffM

Hi, all. I've seen the "inwhale clamp farm" pictures, and now I've dry-fitted mine I finally understand. But I'm trying to avoid spending money on yet more clamps. Can I use stainless steel screws (mostly in the bow) to keep the things in contact with the ply? I figure to start clamping at the stern, put in a screw, leap-frog the clamps, put in another screw, etc., getting awy with only half-a-dozen clamps on each side.

Can you put up a picture? I've had the same questions. Can't wait to hear how it works. Jeff

Thanks, Tom. I'm learning a lot! In discussing my needs with Graham a few days ago, he confirmed that his design is well able to handle the pounding and stresses of coastal sailing, but did say that fiberglassing inside and out would considerably reduce damage from impacts. He said that an impact with, say, a rock that made a small hole in the exterior of the hull would make a much larger hole in the interior -- unless the surfaces were glassed. I don't want a racing boat; I do want a boat I can beach with confidence. Jeff

Thanks again! I'm going to clamp in the inwhales and have a look. There's no mention of them in the plan, except for one or two labels in the profile hull plan. Do I simply notch the bulkheads and center frame and lay them on? There supposed to be 22' long (12'+10') -- does it matter which length is first? Do they need to be glued end to end first? Jeff

Thanks, Ken, Ray & Scott. I can believe that the stiffness of the inwhales will help keep the curve of the sheer smooth -- but not if I fillet the sides to the bulkhead first. What do I do with the bulkhead gaps? I expect I need to fill them out, rather than pinch them in. Or do I simply avoid filleting the bulkheads at all until the inwhales are in?

As I complete the wiring of my CS20, I am getting uneasy and more than a little embarrassed. For the most part, the curves look good and the overall shape as well, but there are large gaps between all of my bulkheads (incl. center frame) and the sides. The gaps range from 3/8" to about 1/4". (Did I mention I'm not a woodworker?) I can only see the effect where the smooth convex curve of the sheer is interrupted by a "pinched" section at the forward bulkhead. Even shims of 3/8" ply don't entirely eliminate the unfairness. Evidently, I cut the bottom panels consistently too generously. (Though how I did so so thoroughly is a mystery to me.) I'm hoping I can get away with epoxying in shims to make up the difference. I couldn't bear to take the whole thing apart to try to measure and cut again! (Did I mention I'm not a woodworker?) Any advice? Anybody out there make such a mess of things and still have a boat come out of it?? Jeff

Thanks, Joel. I am familiar with the I-beam concept of cored fiberglass. It's nice to know it pays off in strength-weight terms. Although I like the idea of avoiding glass on the interior (both for wood inspection and looks), I'll probably glass the interior forward of the fore bulkhead, and maybe the inside of the bottom panels as well. I'm likely to beach a lot, sometimes on gravel. Jeff

One of the new members chiming in: I love this place and wouldn't change a thing. I couldn't be building this Core Sound 20 without a lot of your help (or if I tried, it'd sure be a funny lookin' boat). I like the people. I like the One Rule (now that I know about it). And, although I'm in it mainly for the technical stuff, I appreciate more and more getting to know people via their personal comments. In a community of people, off-topic is sometimes not really off-topic! And I've just figured out that space is not the main issue. (I was trying to avoid starting new threads so as not to clutter the place up!) I most strenuously aplaud Frank's work here (there -- is that loud enough?), and if he ever collects together an FAQ or whatever, I'll be a frequent customer.

Thanks, Arnie, Frank, Tom and Ray. I'm feeling more confident in these floppy panels (once folded, of course). I'll glass the bottom for those times I'm not completely successful at "avoidin the rocks." Thanks, Ray for the invite to look at your boat. I've got an invitation to take a ride with a new CS20 owner who's local -- amazed to have one so close! Jeff

Sorry, Jim. I'm in MA and staying home. (CS20 won't be ready to float for about a year anyway.) I was lucky enough to get an email of the the blue from a forum member less than an hour away who had just launched his CS20. He invited me for a sail, though I've already begun building mine. Let's hope someone closer by sees your post. Jeff Michals-Brown CS20 #65

Thanks for all the details, Garry! The only thing you didn't give me was test results -- and it sounds like you might post those too! I emailed Armstrong about there deck plates but haven't heard back (don't know what they cost or where to get them). The So-Pac hatches come in very useful sizes. If they're reasonably water-tight, I'll likely go with them. I wonder how they'd work on the cambered foredeck?

Thanks, Garry! Can you tell me what the installation's like? Jeff

Thanks, all! I am going to check out Graham's Armstrong deckplates first. If too pricey, I'll look into Scott's suggestion. Jeff

Alex, I'm a school teacher, and I'm not really looking forward to school, either. When will we have time to do boats? Jeff

Thanks, Graham. Amazing oars for such lightning work! (The carpentry is about my level of sophistication, too.) Sorry, Frank and Terry! I responded twice to the same post, not seeing that you had both posted in the meantime. I'm checking out your suggestions. Jeff

I'm trying to think my way through my options for accessing storage in my future CS20. On the one hand, I'm a lazy non-woodworker and want to keep things simple. I was thinking of a 13" by 24" opening in the rear bulkhead (big enough to put tents, portable stove, etc, through, and also a good opening for inspection/repair), maybe small openings in the side tanks, all with flap coverings if needed to keep out spray. Graham points out that water will get in, neccesitating limbers holes, and that bilge water will slosh INTO open tanks due to heeling. I'd figured that drainage would be important anyway, as I am worried about dampness in a wooden boat. On the other hand, I'm reading more posts from people who let the storage spaces double as floatation chambers. Does that mean the hatches are tight must be pretty tight and there's no drainage? I like the double-duty idea (I'f figured to install a little foam), but does that mean my worries about dampness are exagerated? What options did you all choose, and how are they working out?

Thanks, Terry. I'm going to think about my choices some more.

John, Thanks for asking about glassing so I won't have to. A question for whoever: I've read that I shouldn't used excess epoxy in the glass -- that I should squeegee until the weave shows through. (I didn't do this with my first butt joins -- they're thick with epoxy!) Should the glass then be filled in and smoothed with a second coat before it cures? I expect it's a bad idea to sand semi-exposed glass. Jeff

Thanks, Terry. I might think about this awhile longer. Meanwhile, how hard is it to make decent oars? How expensive to buy?

Elegant work, Charlie!

Jim, I grew up on Warwick Neck, where my parents still live. As a young teenager, I'd put the family Sunfish into the water at Dorr's Marina (now defunct) at the mouth of Old Warwick Cove. I'd wander around Greenwich Bay or go out off Warwick Neck light if I only had a few hours, but I loved to start early and go farther, perhaps circumnavigating Prudence I. or visiting Hog I. if there was enough wind. (I got caught out more than once after dark without so much as a flashlight.) I camped a number of times also on Prudence. Kingston, hmm? A beautiful area. I did my Bachelors at URI and loved it. Even though I'm nearer Fall River now, I'd still like to sail in my old stomping grounds. MAYBE next summer... [if you're out there, what boat should I look for?]

Don't know much about boat design, but... I just read something in Devlin's Boat Building that gave me pause: he uses 1/4" plywood for the hull only in small skiffs; 1/2" for 20-footers. The Core Sound 20 I'm building is designed to be seaworthy enough for coasting, yet has bottom panels of 3/8" and 1/4" ply, and sides of 1/4" ply. All bulkheads and deck are 1/4" ply. Is Devlin over-building or is Graham under-building, or am I missing something? What is the contribution of epoxy and fiberglass to hull strength? When I first began to learn about stitch-and-glue I thought of it as wood-cored fiberglass, but I find many builders don't even bother with the fiberglass if the plywood is high-quality okume. If I expect to take my Core Sound 20 out of Narragansett Bay or out to Nantucket, would I be well-advised to reinforce the hull somehow? Jeff

In my teenage days wandering around Narragansett Bay, RI, I decided that for me sailing is about relaxation and the occasional adventure. I want a shoal draft keel to go anywhere and beach easily to land and picnic, explore, or camp. A cabin is simply in the way 95% of the time, so an open boat that can be rigged with a tent, and has room for a family of 5 to daysail, and for me and my three young sons to sleep (hence the 20 footer). I need to be able to trailer behind our minivan. And -- perhaps most importantly -- the unstayed masts mean it won't be a chore to get in the water, so we'll sail more often. I've never sailed a cat-ketch, but it sounds like a neat rig. Of the two similar boats I came down to (the other was boatplans-online.com's ck17), the Core Sound had a higher-quality, more sea-worthy feel, some history, Graham's help, and this excellent community.

A beauty, Scott! Something tells me I'd better get a few people to help me flip my 20, if and when I get that far: I got this year's class schedule in the mail a few days ago. (So far refused to think about it.) Is it my imagination, or did you put the fasteners (screws? nails?) for the bottom stringers in from the inside out, rather that the hull in? If it works well, that'd probably be easier than trying to locate stringers from the outside of the hull. Jeff

Thanks, Graham! I was thinking I might need to install a flap of some sort to cover openings in bulkheads to keep spray, rain out. The problem of water sloshing INTO the tanks I hadn't thought of, but I figured the openings would be rather high up anyway, just to help keep gear from rolling out. Also, would it be wise to leave a way into the bilge for water that might collect behind bulkheads? I figured to leave limber holes in the fore and aft bulkheads by the keel batten. I worry about prolonged dampness. Your "motor sailing" method sounds like just the way to do it. Maybe I'll leave the oarlocks where they are. As I wait for my lumber, I want to finish building my dolly and cradle. Does Graham or anyone know what the relative heights of the keel line should be at the aft bulkhead, center frame and foreward bulkhead on a CS20?