BobSmalser

A barebones 19

The top pic was a marine surveyor example of one done to your proper ABYC standards...standards designed for large yachts, not small boats. You also seem to have missed the treated heatshrink and dielectric grease I use rather liberally. I was careful to mention these techniques aren't considered conventional and precisely why I use them ILO of the "school solution". Readers can make their own choices. When done properly, I find my unconventional but safe methods simply last longer in tight spots that can't be easily maintained. My family built work boats this way successfully for 60 or so years before I came along...these are hardly entirely my own ideas. :wink:

After some years of searching, I

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Q&A and Feedback Any cedar or other scraps I happen to have on hand. I also alternate cedar and other woods if I don

I install the drawer bottom. Usually, the bottom is held in by one slotted screw through the bottom of the drawer back that allows for seasonal expansion, but as my drawer back is only 3/8

Laying out the tails is simply a matter of indexing each corner together and scribing the inside edge of the pin sockets onto the drawer sides to mark the tails. Again, a pencil can be used, although an awl will do a cleaner job and might make accurate sawing of the tails easier for you than the sloppier pencil. Again, the grooves are very useful to insure I don

I grooved the stock as a first step to provide a myself a strong visual reference for joint layout and to insure I don

The lads I

Sash Mortise Chisel: Medium length mortise chisel for bench use, generally with unhooped handles.

That

Upon reaching the correct depth, the mortise bottom is squared and cleaned by lightly striking the chisel with the bevel instead of the blade back indexed against the mortise end

Part I - The Mortise One of the strongest joints, the haunched and drawbored mortise and tenon is one of the few that resists stresses in any direction, to include tension, and is a joint that will remain fully functional long after any glue has deteriorated to dust. A basic joint used to join structural members, I

Snohomish County....or even Kitsap if you are willing to take the ferry then bike or bus. Tis a real zoo over there at rush hour. My oldest just bought a nice 4br on a quarter acre in Bothel for 200k...the same house woulda been a little more than half that in Kitsap. Check out Whidbey in Island County, too. Closer in? Bring money and check out the schools, first.

Dozens of eggbeater drills on Ebay for the price of scrap....just look for a brand name like Millers Falls. I keep one on hand with a mounted 8th-inch bit along with a couple small gimlets for pilot holes I'm too lazy to set up another drill for.

Followup: From an electrician: From two shipwrights:

I always cringe a bit when I see teachers like Norm running screws home in an important application using a power driver. Sure, I do that too in many instances in general carpentry, but never in a critical application like boat planking, furniture carcasses or hinges. The torque limiters on even my best electric drivers can never accommodate the minor changes in grain density that always result in a percentage of over-driven screws, causing crushed threads that lack full strength and rot more quickly. I certainly run them in using a power driver, but I always seat them home by hand twisting the last couple turns, either with my big Yankee or with the brace. Much as I like the North Brothers and later Stanley Yankee push drivers, it is impossible for me to seat more than a few dozen screws without carpal tunnel pain, and it

You mean for the lathe or grinder, or a freestanding unit? Give us a report when you've wrung it out. [/QB] I

Updated.

I counterbore holes for the necessary washers that distribute the considerable stress of the blade mounts and tension rod across a wide area of the handle. As the hole for the drill rod is already present, and it would have been difficult to bore these to the correct depth while the stock was still rectangular, I index the flats of the handle on the drill press table using blocking and fill the hole with a tight dowel to better index the pilot of the Forstner bit. This is another opportunity to hide an off center hole by offsetting the washer within the tolerances of its fit around the rod. If I were using wood prone to splitting at the holes, like any flatsawn ring-porous wood, I would bed these holes in dyed marine epoxy. The best method for this is to drill the initial holes oversize, fill them with epoxy under light heat to better soak into the wood pores, damming one end of the hole with masking tape, and redrill them to the correct size after curing. I clean up the saw marks on the drill press using a drum sander, and round over the edges using a router with 3/8 round over bit. Then I do some minor rasp and file work that distinguishes these pieces from something that can be done in a factory. I change the radius of the curves so as to better fit the hand, and add some subtle curves in the handle

The blade mounts are merely two saw cuts in the end of drill rod cut to length and filed where necessary to fit the stock coping saw blades. I bevel the ends slightly using an electric drill and grinder, both for neat and in preparation for cutting threads where required

No biggie. The hard part is perfecting the design. When I get that done and post the pattern, anybody with a drill press. solder and a 1/4X20 die can make one. The handle can be 8-sided by those without lathes.

As the lads I'm writing for have made good progress in the last year, the next article I write for them is gonna be on something a bit more complicated than basic tools and joinery: Store-bought coping saws never work to their potential because those flimsy steel frames don

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63729&item=2490837626&rd=1 Buy the trailer...get the boat.