BobSmalser

An easy extension of the Bird

For boats with no electrics liable to be caught out after dark in the ferry lanes. The mount is a stock, bronze flagpole socket and the lamp is a high-quality reproduction of a turn-of-the-century anchor lamp. I'll add a safety lanyard later. It all comes apart for storage in the boat until needed.

The schooner "Alabama" and countless other vessels were framed with Bodark (southern usage) Hedge (midwest usage) Osage Orange (eastern usage). Hard to find straight boles of any length, however, so sawn frames, stems, knees, horn timbers and breast hooks are the typical uses.

Not much you can do other than apply a good uv-resistant varnish. It'll change color, darkening with age...but that's not unattractive: Those are Purpleheart bungs in H. Mahog....just for fun.

All this hardware ...including some of the bronze screws...is salvaged from old boats or made from scratch. The mini winch is a Wilcox Crit.

The cut frame ends are braced

Previous: The Board: http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/c gi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010983 The Case: http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011101 The case is dry positioned and aligned twice

5200 is interesting stuff. It's certainly a glue when you assemble bare wood with it...but saturate that wood with water, and that 5200 pulls off like rope. I had to make a specialized work punt in a hurry several years ago and nailed the lengthwise cedar planking to the frames under clamping pressure with no caulking seams and 5200 between. Tar on the bottom and linseed on the top was the only protection. That punt stayed in the water like that for 6 straight years before I got around to pulling it out to saw in proper caulking seams and paint it. The 5200 was still fully functional but no longer had any adherence to the wood at all below the waterline....and not all that much above the waterline. I don't trust the stuff or its construction-adhesive ilk for anything other than sealants.

In hard-use applications like this tiller yoke and thwart, I bed the entire hardware mortise in epoxy, to include the screw holes as has been described. Use paste wax as a release agent on the metal. When fastening hardware plywood I double drill all the holes using epoxy as Frank describes...then use a bedding compound, too. I believe it a big mistake to rely on mild putty like common bedding compounds alone to seal something as critical as those absorbant and fragile lams. Otherwise I use an industrial poly sealant similar to 4200. It's adhesive, but it lasts forever and doesn't leak. When applied between two painted surfaces it comes right off with a length of piano wire and no damage can occur beyond your layer of paint. Followup with a heat gun and a scraper and it comes right off with the paint. Course you gotta repaint....but I was gonna do that anyways. Special applications like this CB pin get both a neoprene gasket and a tad of poly sealant. And nail and drift holes should be swabbed with red lead paste before driving. Acts as a good lube, too, for those tight bronze drifts. Here you see poly sealant and red lead used together to rivet a CB trunk. Finally, some hardware I simply glue on in addition its fasteners using epoxy, if the installation is fragile and I want max strength. Heating the part up with a large soldering iron or torch easily releases the epoxy. Ever had a stem too sharp to make a brass nose strip for? Simply rasp a small flat and install narrow bronze flat stock using large brass box nails and epoxy.

Range of motion isn

Was hired for a job at the end of the month that requires a freestanding bench, something I

Simple. 120 degrees and higher softens marine epoxies. Don't paint your hull black if you live in San Diego or further south without understanding that. There are a few heat-resistant epoxies like JB Weld used to repair engines, but few folks have had trouble with standard marine epoxy in the tropics. Not to mention the potential for warping the dickens out fo that carefully-made board of yours. Nothing of wood should live too close to a heater.

Objective: Sweep one complete broom full of sawdust into the tub. Conditions: Body blocks and light kicks allowed. Stepping on small toes and biting flesh forbidden. Typical Score: Puppies 16, Boatbuilders 0 Glad the big dog is past that stage: Later, a quieter moment with quieter pals:

Previous

When it's done. http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3245&highlight=centerboard+case

Laminated tiller yoke laid out and mounting hardware installed: Rudder thwart and rudder stock installed: Rudder housing and shaft brazed: Hardware bedded in epoxy and wood finished with varnish over epoxy: Rudder assembled and tested for fit and function: Then it all comes apart for final fit and finish waiting completion of the remainder of the boat.

Planning: From John Gardner's The Dory Book Layout: Cutting and Fitting:[/] Turning, Threading and Milling: Fitting Drifts: Pouring Lead: Rudder blade shaped, sanded and strengthened with 4oz fiberglass cloth set in epoxy: Continued

Bronze or galvanized are used because unlike wood or brass, they are stiff and aid the board in preventing deflection. No glue in those long drifts....they are bedded in red lead. Glue would be a mistake just like it would be for the end cleats because it'd crack the board in seasonal movement. The drifts were nicked with a chisel along their lengths so they pound in but won't back out with seasonal movement. The old way is to drive it all together with white lead and no glue at all, then drill out and pound in any angled drifts. I prefer to lay the boards up with epoxy, first, using alignment dowels if required and drill/drive the long drifts in from the outside after it's all cured. That way there's no danger of pounding two boards together that won't meet because the drift is either a tad too long or hung up. Here's the pin....designed to the board won't flop around in the case: The bushing is .750. I turned the pin down to .725. I'll turn two laminated White Oak caps bored and epoxy bedded for the pin ends to be screwed into the bed logs with sealant to capture the pin.

Undercut double through-mortise for lead weight is cut, the wood primed with Red Lead

Whether a new boat or a retrofit, the board and case are best made as a complete, stand-alone functioning unit before installation into the hull. 5/4 Q-Sawn White Oak planed, jointed and laid out completely with all hardware before any assembly: Bronze drifts installed after glueup: End cleats fitted

Cutting Rudder Blade to Shape Refining Stop Points in Brass Housing After Planing to Thickness Lead Weight Layout

Turning, Threading and Milling at Mel Ensor's Fitting Drilling Laying Out and Sizing Drifts Fitting Drifts Pounding Home Laminating Rudder Thwart To be continued

Planning From John Gardner's The Dory Book Cutting and Fitting Continued...