Hobartian

I was quite pleased with my first attempt at sewing the polyester skin on my kayak. I sewed along the top seam for a couple of feet and then I snapped the thread. I undid a number of stitches and tied a new piece of thread onto the end of the snapped piece. However this did not work as the knot would not pass through the fabric and I could not tension the stitches leading up to the knot. With your vast experience Kudzu I expect you have a workable solution to this problem and I would very much appreciate your advice.

I am currently building a SOF Disko Bay kayak using the fuselage construction method. I intended to use closed cell marine flotation sheet for flotation but when I went to buy it I was staggered by it's relatively high weight. I now intend to place a 'Sea to Summit Ultra -Sil Dry Sack' in each end of the kayak before the skin is fastened on. The bags will be filled with pieces of light weight polystyrene so that the bags are stopped from collapsing. Any penetration of water into the bag would be very small and the polystyrene will also contribute to the flotation effect.

I have just finished the frame of a fuselage style Disko Bay kayak. I was surprised how many minor adjustments are needed to be made to complete a kayak that is straight and true. Altering things is so easy with a lashed joint and the frame and stringers are not damaged in any way. Whereas a glued and screwed joint would difficult to pull apart and the integrity of the timber has been compromised. Lashing is so easy once you have done a few joints and I actually learnt to enjoy the process. Lashing is the way to go and any future repairs will be so easy.

(I spit this from another thread to make it more visable- Jeff) I have received the fabric I ordered from you which was sent to Tasmania Australia. It certainly looks good! I have sourced an Australian water based flexible paint made by Viponds Australia called TautFlex which I believe will be suitable. (http://www.viponds.com.au/tautflexproducts.htm) The supplier said to me I should ascertain whether the fabric has been treated with a water repellent because it would cause problems if it has been. Can you kindly advise me on this aspect?

Hi Kudzu, I am currently building a SOF kayak which I intend to cover with polyester fabric using your Youtube video instructions. I am aware that you advocate using oil based enamel to seal the skin. Do I need to use an undercoat on the raw fabric before applying the enamel? During the construction of the frame I can see why you recommend lashing. It is so handy to be able to cut the lashing if you want to make an adjustment somewhere. Another thing I have learnt is not to try and force the gunwales together at the bow and stern. I did so initially and when I tipped the frame upside down to lash the keel I saw the kayak was shaped like a banana. When I released the gunwales at each end everything straightened out. I then did some sanding and shimming until the gunwales came together evenly without twisting the frame. Building a kayak is certainly interesting and I wish I had done it a long time ago!

I am interested in the way you construct your kayaks as it eliminates having to bend ribs and should allow very accurate dimensions to be achieved. I like the look of the Sling Shot but the width seems very wide and I wondering whether you could produce plans for me with the width of the kayak at around nineteen and half inches. I have paddled the Tahe Marine Greenland which is approximately nineteen and half inches wide and had no problems with it's stability. The only problem I had was the deck height was so low there was barely enough room for my legs. Thanks for your response.

While browsing the net I found this web page about Lean N Steer Powered Kayaks. http://leannsteerkayaks.com/specifications-f.html As I am sixty eight years old my inclination to paddle kayaks long distances seems to be diminishing day by day and hence I can imagine having some fun in this particular kayak without wreaking havoc on my body.. Unfortunately, as I live in Australia it would not be practical for me to import this kayak particularly with the relatively high starting price. However, if I could build one myself using your Skin on Frame technique it may be affordable for me. Do you think your construction technique would handle the additional stresses created by a two hp motor? In the mean time I am considering building one of your designs and I note your love of the Long Shot. Most of my paddling is in the Derwent River which is very wide and subject to a stiff chop when strong winds are present. I presume you have paddled the Long Shot in these type of conditions and wondered how it coped.