bentg

By Tung Oil, are you referring to the Watco Danish Oil? Dont' use that, it's for inside the house (or boat) only, out of the weather. If you are referring to something else called Tung Oil, it should work fine, though different Tung Oils have all sorts of different things in them.

Buttons?

Corey's goop is light amber colored, probably very similar to Dura Tuff, but very hard to apply without drips, sags, etc

And now to advance your education on oil finish just a bit: the Watco Danish Oil is wonderful, but it is for interior applications. You should get the Watco Teak Oil instead, which is truly wonderful stuff.

Thanks, Jeff, I hadn't looked hard at the Firefly but I will now.

Jeff, I need a recommendation from you. I have a client who paddles a very nice, but somewhat heavy Impex Force Cat 4 right now which has decent speed and very good behavior in all-around conditions. The Impex is 18 feet long LOA. He is an older man but an excellent paddler with rolling skills. He doesn't race. He wants a lighter boat from me (Skin on Frame to the rescue!), and I'm trying to decide which of your designs to use. I'm leaning toward the Long Shot, partly because I want one myself. Is that the way I should go, or do you have another suggestion? Any other questions you need answered?

Thanks, woodman, that is one of mine. It is sold, but I'm about to start another if anyone is in the market.

Watco Danish oil is what I use.

Hirilonde, that's a good price from Jamestown Distributor that you posted there. My only hesitation about brass is the weight it adds. FYI, on another forum a member talked about varnishing the brass to keep it from turning green, a good idea.

I've experimented with different materials for outer stems, but haven't arrived at one I'm happy with so far. I've used cedar that was steamed and bent into shape, but it gets so noodly that it folds a bit. And cedar is too soft for what I'm hoping for. I've also steamed a hardwood, which works well enough I suppose. But I keep thinking there is some modern material like PVC or hdpe that is waiting out there, ready to use. It would need to be durable, a decent color, and flexible enough to take the bends without cracking or noodling. Anyone have any ideas, or material you have used that you recommend?

Boat is Sold

Sold last week, but I will be building another in the fall. If you would like to claim it, contact me.

I like that mechanical seal idea, much like clamping the deck skin between layers of the combing. I hope you will keep reporting on the project, I would love to make one of my boats into a "pedal kayak".

Very nice! I'm thinking about putting together a few of these for my kids, too. How does he like it so far?

Ravenswood 15 skin-on-frame kayak . . . . . $975 This boat is built to last by Tidewater Small Craft, a boat shop in Williamsburg (www.tidewatersmallcraft.com), and designed by Jeff at Kudzucraft. The frame is marine fir and cedar, covered with 12 oz ballistic nylon for a tough exterior. The boat was then coated with a 2-part urethane finish which saturates the skin and makes the skin VERY durable. Last of all, a one-part polyurethane top coat in yellow and flat white gives the boat some good looks. Weighing in at 34 lbs, you can pick it up at the end of the day and put it on your car without a lift or a friend. And for a 15 foot boat, it moves out and cruises. It placed second in the Recreational Kayak division of the 2011 round-Jamestown Island race, second only to another TSC boat, the Arrow 14. Over 10 miles, the boat averaged 4.5 mph, quite good for a moderate-length boat! HYDROSTATS All figures based on a 250 lb total displacement Length over all * 15 foot 6 inches * Beam overall * 24 inches Design draft 4.5 inches at 250 lbs Waterline length 14 feet 2.5 inches"; * Waterline beam 21.5 inches"; Prismatic coefficient 0.5486 * Stability Factor 95 Max displacement 325 lbs

That is a 12 oz ballistic nylon, which is fine but I now understand is overkill. Very hard to cut, even unfinished. The finish is the 2-part urethane from the Skinboat School. That stuff is amazingly durable and amazingly hard to put on well. In fact, I have now painted over it with Brightsides poly and the boat looks much better. Taking pictures tomorrow. But I will never puncture this boat, I'm sure. Next time I will try the Petit 2-part poly. You have designed a very nice boat, Jeff. My fishing buddies can't keep up with me, and they envy how I can carry down to the shore instead of dragging it like their heavy plastics.

Here are some skinning photos and a paddle test photo of my new Ravenswood. More to come! http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2713.jpg http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2714.jpg http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2715.jpg http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2716.jpg http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2717.jpg http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2718.jpg http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2719.jpg http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/bentg/IMG_2789.jpg

very nice, what is that last layer with the color?

I have just used the 2 part urethane from the Skinboat School and I can testify that it is VERY tough. It saturates the cloth and reminds me a lot of a Hypalon boat. BUT, it is hard to work with. Follow the directions they have on their website exactly, as I didn't and mine turned out pretty lumpy/ugly. I've painted over it with Brightsides.

That would be great. Does he have the template for the Ravenswood already?

Jeff,I saw a nice seat on another post of your Sling Shot. Where did you get it?

I have dacron on a Monfort canoe that I built, and I like how it shrinks and stays shrunk, but I did put a hole in it. Trying the 12 oz nylon with the Ravenswood I'm building now, so I will know better in a month.

"increased the stringer sizes to stiff the frame" This answers a question I have had about scantling size, Jeff. I kept wondering if I could save weight by knocking off a 1/4", but I see the flex would cause problems.

OK, that makes sense. I'm using plywood for the bottom two rings and laminating the top, so I'll go ahead and tie them in.

Sorry, I was going from memory, I should have said 7'5". It's one of the open-top cockpit frames and then the 2 coaming hangers. Both labeled 7'5". I will look at that addendum, Jeff. LATER: After looking at the addendum, I see the coaming hangers don't go where I thought they might. I'm thinking they butt up with the regular frame at 7'5", is that right?