Finally, some time to build. A progress report.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Well it has been a lonnnnnnnnnnnng time since I've been able to accomplish anything meaningful towards the completion of my Weekender, Spirit Wind.

It came out of storage earlier this spring, but I've been busy with just too many paying projects to work on the boat. So, last weekend my son and I set up a section of his shop to be my new boat shed. He got a new 60 gallon compressor so there will be plenty of air for the sanding tools and the tools he needs to work on his off road-rock crawling truck.

We took down all the light covers and thoroughly cleaned both the covers and the fixtures themselves. That alone was like adding at least another 4-6 florescent fixtures as far as light levels are concerned. Pretty good lighting all through the work spaces now. Just need a bit more over my workbench, so we are putting in an 8' 4 tube fixture there. 8) Then painted a couple walls bright white to help with reflected light levels a bit.

We got the power tools unpacked and set up, located a bunch of things that were packed in unmarked boxes that are pretty critical for completion of the boat and then picked up some solvents, some wood for brightwork and some misc. parts that I'm itching to try out.

Then I actually got to do some work on the boat. I finished up the rough-in on the seats with lift tops and am installing foam to make one side into a cooler. That was a wonderful way to spend a couple days. I felt like something was actually happening for the first time in a couple years.

Then I got some time on Friday and cut the coamings for the cockpit. Got to use the bandsaw and a new precision disc sander that I got for my birthday. I made the coamings from Western Red Cedar along with a couple yellow cedar bands for contrast. I cut the coamings from 2X WRC stock rather than 1X stock and it works out really slick. My coamings are taller than the plans call for due to a higher cabin roof and they look better balanced in my opinion.

My son and I played with portlight combinations and I've settled on lexan sheet cut to fit in the opening and use an automotive "H" type glass glazing strip to install them. No potential for leaks that way. 8) Then I can install some trim rings to dress it up a bit. 8) I cut some trim rings out of 1X8 clear WRC stock and routed them with a nice round over profile on the router table. That was quick and easy to do once I had a 1/4" masonite sample finished. Now I just have to sand them, epoxy coat them and then varnish.

After getting my seats to the semi-ready-to-finish stage I too discovered that my wheel isn't going to work because it hits the edges of the seats. So don't feel too bad Adla or Jan. :wink: We both pondered this for most of the weekend and the solution appeared pretty simple. I re-bored the hole thru my steering block at a slightly steeper angle and moved the pivot point down an inch on the transom. That gives me plenty of clearance with a wheel that really doesn't have to turn all that much to go from lock to lock. So it should be fine.

Yesterday, I finished up the shaping and fitting of the coamings to the deck and the full length base for them which extends from the main bulkhead to the rear of the cockpit. Then I tackled a new rudder. Nothing wrong with the old one, but it is made from 3/4" stock. After reading a lot about rudder shaping and high aspect rudder designs, I had a chance to note how responsive the rudder was on the gaffer we sailed in the Carib. That was a similar design to these but it was made up from 2" stock and shaped like an airfoil. Rounded front, wide main cord and tapered to a thin trailing edge. If you were to see it horizontal you would swear it was half an airplane wing. The 27' modified dory hull was really responsive to that rudder.

I had also seen a similar rudder on the Weekender on Kauai a couple years ago. That old timer had built up his so it had more of an airfoil shape and swore that it turned better and made handling in the open seas a lot better.

So, I had this board from an old company sign that I've had laying around since about 1975 or so. We sold the company and kept the sign since they changed the name anyway. The sign was painted on a 40" piece of vertical grain Doug Fir 2X12. Been wanting to do something with that piece of wood for ages. The rudder seemed a logical choice. I really didn't want to cut it up for something smaller.

I laid out the size, the same as the profile on the stock Weekender rudder and then went to work with the band saw and table saw to remove excess material to bring it down to the shape and rough airfoil shape. Then I got out the trusty draw knife and went to work. About half an hour later this airfoil shape was in place and only needed some finish sanding. That was a really satisfying exercise since I've not been able to do any wood working at all for such a long time. Then I sanded it and applied a coat of sealer to raise the grain and close up the end grain.

Now then, one challenge, it won't fit in the rudder box because the rudder box has a 7/8" opening and the new rudder is 1 1/2" thick. :shock:

But I had already planned on cutting it down to the right thickness at the top and routing out a curved clearance for the rudder box. But my son thought I had lost it. :wink: So I went to the router table and set up the straight cutting bit and then set a curved masonite template on the rudder to follow and zip-zip, I had a rudder with a 3/4" thick section to fit in the rudder box and with a clearance curve cut into it for the box for raising and lowering. Then just a little touchup with a chisel and sanding block and I was ready to finish it.

It now has a couple coats of a pecan stain and clear varnish on it. Mighty pretty! Matches the other brightwork on the boat. The idea is to compare under various conditions to see if there is actually much of a difference in handling. Then report the results.

All in all this has been a most satisfying weekend for me, back to building and now I can see that if all goes well, it may see the water yet this summer.

That is if I can get the paying work finished so that I have some time to play. :cry:

Since I don't have a digital camera, I have to rely on the good ole photo processers before I can post photos. But I will, I promise. :wink:

[Mike Henderson (Oregon)]

Nice goin', Barry!!

[Ed Jones]

Barry I am glad you are finally getting to have some fun. I have two more parts to make and my boat will be ready to paint.

[Jan Williamson]

It is great to see that you are back in business Barry.

Your steering wheel solution is exactly what I did. Since I had not attached the clutch plate to the lazeratte yet, I am able to fill the hole below and cover it. But I cut out a new wheel. An 18" one. I wanted more clearance between the seat and the wheel. I could just see someones hand there while the wheel got turned. I fits good now. I am also using a iron pipe, end cap and floor flange so I have a worry freee set-up. I had too much trouble with the lag screw coming unscrewed.