McTavish Update

[Mike McMahon]

Well I have not posted much, so I figured I better catch-up. :?

Bought the plans in the Fall of 2002. I started the boat January 2003. A little work here, a little work there. Next thing I know I need help to flip the boat! :shock:

We had a cookout at my house this weekend and my brother helped flip over McTavish. I am going to put the rubrails on after I glass the bottom so I can finish them bright. My only concern about rolling the boat with out a rub rail was the top edge. Not a single creak!

Now its time to fill in the mistakes, I mean screw holes, and start glassing.

There are some pics at the following URL:

http://groups.msn.com/sandbarsanddriftwood/mikesweekendermctavish.msnw?Page=1

[tdrown]

I like the wheel rim and web strapping method of wood bending. Very inovative. Your steering mod looks great, in retrospect I probably should have figured out the steering much earlier on in building (as you did). When I finaly set it up I found my blocks were attached too weakly and that the hole for my lazaratte hatch was extreamly uncomfortable to work in. What are you going to use as resin for glassing? What type of wood are your rub rails going to be. I also finished mine bright and don't regret the desition. By the way, I'm down in Manayunk every weekday 9-5, I'd be happy to help if you ever need any extra.

[Mike McMahon]

It was much easier to work on the basic setup for the steering without the sides. Also with this modification there is no need for u-bolts to poke out the sides. I read some posts referring to various steering modifications. Its part Terry Crisp, part T. Nelson and a little of my own.

Terry's Mod

http://groups.msn.com/sandbarsanddriftwood/steeringmod.msnw

T. Nelson's Mod

http://groups.msn.com/weekenderboatbuilding/modifications1.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=36

There are some other cool modifications for anyone looking for ideas.

http://groups.msn.com/weekenderboatbuilding/modifications1.msnw?Page=1

I did not buy the wood for the rub rails so any suggestions are welcome. I am using Epoxy with the glass, specifically the West System. I started using it to fillet the interior joints as well as where the deck meets the sides. It is solid as a rock! I am very pleased with West although it does take a lot of filler (low density, filleting blend, high density) to thicken the epoxy.

[tdrown]

I did not buy the wood for the rub rails so any suggestions are welcome

What color are you painting your hull, deck, and between the rub rails? What wood are you using/have you used for the splash coaming, bits, grab rails, forehatch, companionway hatch, or other brightwork?

[Mike McMahon]

I am contemplating a dark green for the Hull, white in between the rails and white and tan for the deck. I'm also thinking about a bark colored sail. I made the rafters out of red oak (that was a bear to cut). I have not purchased the wood for the bright areas. A friend of mine was able to get some nice wood from Delaware County Supply Company.

[Barry Pyeatt]

Good wood for brightwork without paying an arm and leg for it is Mahogany. It is easy to work with and finishies out beautifully.

It doesn't have to be the rich red of fine furniture because it readily accepts stains and a variety of finishes.

I would tend to shy away from red oak if possible as it turns black over the change in seasons and looses its beauty. White oak is good however.

Vert. grain Doug fir, Spruce, Redwood, Western Red Cedar all make nicely finished brightwork. Redwood and Western Red Cedar both have good oil content and don't breakdown thru the seasons as quickly as other woods. Both finish out beautifully and when epoxy coated have a good strength/weight ratio for our use. All of these may be in short supply however in the Pennsylvania marketplace.

You might check on the Glen-l.com site under suitable woods for small boat building and then see which woods are available in your area.

Remember that upper rub rails will take a beating over time so consider that they may need to be replaced at some point. But certainly they will begin to get dinged and scratched early on.