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Herschel Payne

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Everything posted by Herschel Payne

  1. I don't know how much a Bavaria 33 would cost, however, you could charter a Weekender for $10 per day. A 24' Vacationer would be a little more.
  2. I've been carrying a bailer in my boat which is a cut off milk jug. I won't be using that anymore! I'm getting a bucket!! Another concern is my 2HP Yamaha 2 stroke on the back. Not a good idea to get that wet. Of course I won't have it on for practise, however I'm wondering how that will affect recovery when it is on in a real life situation. I also carry a spare Minkota 55 lb thrust and 2 batteries. One is located in the forepeak and the other is in the companion way box/seat. I'm going to make sure to keep them well secured so they can't move or be lost in a capize. ( Think inverted )
  3. PAR, Thank you for all that excellent feedback and advice. That is what I'm going to practise this spring ( and in a secluded cove ) Also, I am a wine drinker. Is the curse the same?? On another note I have the plans for the vacationer which I'm going to begin this spring. I had read somewhere that you had worked out a modified keel for the Vac.and if so are the drawings for that available to see? Many thanks again, Herschel
  4. Jeremy, very interesting, How strong were the winds when you went out? It always pays to be aware of the status of the main sheet at all times. I'm glad to hear that you could right the boat alone. If you had sufficient flotation and an automatic bilge pump you probably would not have required a tow. As for reboarding, I always carry an emergency ladder, a compact one that folds to almost nothing but it has solid sides as opposed to rope sides that don't seem to work well from what I've read.
  5. Using kayaks and canoes I have always trained in self rescue from a capsize. I was thinking that it would add a lot of safety to the Weekender to have a backup plan in the event of capsize, so I have been thinking of various ways to start and hopefully implement practise next summer. My first thought is to attach flotation to the top of the mast to ensure the boat does not turtle. Without destroying the aesthetics I think that a white dock fender screwed onto the mast top would serve this purpose. Next would be flotation and coming from kayaks I immediately think of air bags. I think that blow up air mattreses, the kind inflated with a foot pump would work very well as an inexpensive alternative I would "stuff" one in the front hatch and fill it. It would conform to the hatch and as well act as a cover to keep any loose items from being lost. The same would be done with the cockpit storage doors. All this should give more than adequate flotation and at this point I'm hoping that righting the boat would be fairly simple from a side floating position. I also have an emergency boarding ladder from West Marine and I have already installed a bilge pump in the forward deepest part of the cockpit which works very well, almost like a self draining cockpit. It would be interesting to hear all your opinions and develop a solid plan.
  6. Thanks Pat, Does that mean that you added 33 inches to the mast height? I built my boat exactly to plans, so I was thinking of just putting a 6 or 7 inch block in the mast box and then letting the original mast sit on top of that. Also another concern is how 7 inches will affect stability/heeling. By the way I found a boat shop and they are making me a bimini that will have turnscrews so that I can adjust the bimini height depending on weather I sail, row or motor.
  7. How many inches would the mast have to be raised and could a block of wood just be placed in the mast box with the original mast placed on top of it? Thanks,
  8. After one of the hottest summers ever here in Ontario ( the seats on my weekender felt like I was seating on a stove and the sun gouging my eyes out, I need a bimini) so Pat, or anyone, Where can I find a bimini for Weekender? Also, I will probably need to make a taller mast and change the stays, and have the main sheet come from the end of the boom. Is that correct?
  9. Thanks Pat, I was out again today and it was very windy and gusty. I used only the jib and at no time did I feel overpowered. I could see the gusts coming across the lake and they would hit the boat which only resulted in more forward speed and great sense of security. By the way Frank, I noticed that this post came out twice. Sorry about that, I only have dialup and it didn't seem to go the first time. I could not figure out how to delete one of them. Thanks for a wonderful forum.
  10. I think I found a solution to heavy wind with Weekender. The wind was really wild today and I put up the jib only. The boat ran pretty flat and I was able to sail across the wind very well. Going downwind the jib did a fair bit of jibing side to side really making a racket with the clubfoot, but I felt stable at all times. Ofcourse, my speed was cut but I had a feeling of control, which is important to me as I am prudently conservative with this boat as I don't want to risk a capsize. Please let me know your thoughts on sailing with the jib alone in wild conditions. ( For upwind progress I use a motor with this method. Thanks and happy sailing to everyone.
  11. I was sailing my Weekender the other day and wind really picked up in a hurry gusting from all directions. Normally in a strong blast I just let go of everything and the boat turns into the wind, however, this did not happen this time as the wind was from every direction and dipped my rail well into the water. I was surprised I didn't capsize. What is the proper procedure for handling this type of situation. Thanks in advance for your replys.
  12. Thanks Pat. That looks great and your boat is beautiful! Does the bimini get in the way of control of the main sheet? And in the photo, the main sheet seem to come directly from the end of the boom, not more from the centre of the boom as per the plans. That eliminates an extra pulley? and makes things less complicated and direct?
  13. I was wondering if anyone had ever built a bimini or some type of sunshade for the Weekender. I thought I saw something once in the builder photos on the Stevenson site. This would be a great upgrade for the hot summer sun.
  14. Thank you Frank. I was thinking of only 3/16 for the halards. I already have 1/4 nylon for the main sheet that is very comfortable. West Marine has 3 strand polyester that they recommend for haylards on traditional boats. 25 cents a foot for 3/16.
  15. Hi, I'm going to be purchasing new rope for my Weekender and I was thinking of changing from 1/4" that I'm currently using to 3/16" which is less costly and should work smoother with less resistance especially on the gaff up and down. Will 3/16" be ok? Your Thoughts?
  16. First of all, you need a proper outboard motor bracket for a canoe. You also need to have the canoe properly trimmed. If you have no gear to weigh down the bow then the motor must be placed in back of the bow seat and you will sit or kneel from the bow seat. If the canoe has a keel there will be no problem steering. I have been using canoes with 2 hp for years on many different canoes. Under 16' is not really the best canoe. A real tripping canoe 17 and up will really perform well. Having said that my current canoe is a 16' Chestnut Crusier wood canvas, no keel. I have used it for 10 day trips and have always carried my Yamaha 2 hp along. PS: The beam on my canoe is only 33" and I kneel all the time. That way you can get more power on your paddle stroke and more stability with the outboard.
  17. Here are 2 photos of my Weekender with the modified sails I made to increase the height of the boom. The luff is 106" and the foot is angled at 75degrees.
  18. Thanks PAR, That is certainly encouraging. Do you think 106" at the luff and a 75 degree will do it? I also figure that an added benefit will be that the gaff will not bind on the shrouds with a height of only 106 going up the mast
  19. I will not add a block. I want to keep my center of gravity low. However, I will make a new sail with 106" length at the luff and a 75 degree angle at the foot. I figure that the sail will raise the boom when hoisted. Of course I realize that I will have less total sail area then 120 sq. feet. but I want the boom higher and there is a lot of wind here anyway, enough that one would think of reefing every other day.
  20. I've already had the boat out a dozen times. It sails well. The mastbox is right on at 93 degrees. It's just the boom height that I don't like. My question is, can I use the new sail I plan to make hold up the boom as in the picture. Thanks, See my detailed question above.
  21. Thank you Mark, the mast is just 2 2X4's epoxied together. I used regular screws for the portholes.
  22. OK ! I see they did come out. Now for a question. One of the photos shows the sail as per the plans, however the boom is too low. I can't live with it that way. The next photo shows the temporary modification to the sail to get the boom to an acceptable height. now I don't want to fool around with the mast and the shrouds etc. So, I would rather modify a new sail along the lines of the photo. The dimensions will be: 106" for the luff going up the mast. The angle at the boom to the mast will be 75 degrees running along the foot of the sail for a total of 128" So in effect the sail is holding up the boom and I will have the clearance. The only measurement I'm not sure of is the leech but I guess that is just a question of connecting the line from the top of the gaff to the foot of the sail. Once again thank you all for all your help in this forum during the building process. The boat took me 500 hours and 4 months. A special thank you to Frank
  23. Attached are 2 photos of my recently completed Weekender. I hope they come out as I'm not sure how to attach a photo.
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