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tkguppies

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Everything posted by tkguppies

  1. I have two hatches, one brand new and other is in excellent condition. Only one was used a couple times and comes with the bag, deck grommet and eight stainless screws. Everything you need. I dismantled the paddle board it was installed in to free up storage space. Now relocating and cleaning out garage so trying to keep these out of the landfill. Asking for $10 paypal F&F or $12 G&S to cover shipping. US only please.
  2. One thing I didn't like was the blotchy areas along the stringers. Next time I will probably spar urethane the stringers, with one coat, after tung and before skinning. Hopefully that will prevent the stringers from soaking up the finish during skin coating. Its a nit and I like the overall look. Also I'd be curious to see a finish that used 100% Helmsman Clear on the white fabric.
  3. Material list: Frames, floorboards, and coaming are birch plywood Stringers are doug fir, vertical grain Artificial sinew tied together Fabric is your 8oz polyester Initial two coats with Cabot Spar Urethane (giving the yellow color) Final two to three coats with Minwax Helmsman Clear Spar Urethane (truly clear) Frames, stringers and floor boards coated with generous amount of tung oil Coaming painted with acrylic exterior Stitch holes filled lightly with Lexel clear silicone HDPE from cutting board used for keel guard Minicell closed cell foam block used for custom seat Foot braces from your site, SeaLect, IIRC Weight wise, I'll have to weight it officially, but I'd guess is about 30 lbs. It feels lighter then my stitch and glue which was 34 lbs.
  4. Wanted the look of kevlar and really like how the FreeB turned out. Tracks great, is incredibly light weight, and is very stable. I worked on the boat off and on in spare time for about 7 months. An hour here, an hour there. I much prefer the skin on frame construction presented in Kudzu's book to the terrible epoxy and fiberglass mess that is stitch and glue. Anyways, to the photos... Glamour shot. Love the translucent skin. First paddle down the street from my house Someone's jealous The awkward joy of figuring out the best way to get in without getting wet Rash guards made from HDPE Bonus: turned my strongback into a simple storage cart
  5. Thank you everyone for your help. I ended up getting most of the slack wrinkles out. Here's how. First, set the iron on the highest setting and kept it moving. That help tighten up the entire skin a bit more. Second, on that same hot setting, I flipped the boat on its side and ironed the worst wrinkles from the inside of the coaming. This really helped. Third, using your advice for whip stitching, I went around the inside of the coaming. I love that it help pull in some slack but also left a nice finished edge in the coaming. Here's some pics. Compare from my original post above. Next up is to make my seat out of some closed cell foam I have. And then on to finishing. If curious, I'm planning to use Spar Urethane for a translucent, kevlar look.
  6. I've been silently building a FreeB in spare time off and on for past few months. Now that the weather has cooled and rain season has passed, I've got the itch to finish the boat. It's my first skin on frame and I love this process much more than epoxy stitch and glue. Quick question. I have two places at the rear of the coaming where I tried to manage the slack and hoped the wrinkles would shrink out. I'm not sure how taught the 8oz skin should be after ironing. I made several slow passes and it definitely is more taught to the point of removing fold creases and a coin will bounce on the skin. I tried the iron and heat gun on low. The stitch points are taught but the slack won't cinch up. Any recommendations on how to improve? Pre-shrink Post-Shrink This is the worse of the two sides, but both have visible wrinkles from slack. PS, I know the coaming fabric sewing looks like sh*t. I'm painting it and then covering with strip of wood or foam.
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