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winefood

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About winefood

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 10/14/1950

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Francisco Bay
  • Interests
    Sailboats
  1. I installed the tack fitting for the 328 Racelight gooseneck that Carla sent me yesterday and it gave me acceptalbe halyard and outhaul tension. If I want more luff tension after a test sail, I'll add a cringle and cunningham. I shortened the traveller and its better but I think what is causing the problem, if it is a problem, is that the weight of the boom and sail unduces bend in the mast. I don't have any experience with unstayed masts on small boats so I don't know what is acceptable. When th boom is near centerline, the least bit of pressure on the mainsheet causes the blocks on the af
  2. Thanks for your responses. I have noticed that the paint scuffs easily when the boat is moved around which indicates that a really hard paint is necessary. I have Awlgrip left over so aim going toAwlgrip inside and out and use Vivid on the bottom.
  3. OK. My Mistake, I have the plans with the correct dimensions and the mast was built spot-on to the plans. The problems with luff and leach tension and the boom resting on the traveller, remain. Any ideas would be appreciated!
  4. Hello, I didn't build my Spindrift, so I don't have a complete set of plans and dimensions. Carla was kind enough to send me a CD and some rigging plans but I am missing some information. I have been rigging my Spindrift (it didin't have any running rigging or hardware when I got it) but it seems like the mast is a little too short for the sail. Also, the boom is almost touching the traveller. There is hardly any mainshhet between the the block that hangs from the aft end of the boom and the block that is connected to the traveller. I have not gotten the boat off my lawn yet, so I can't say
  5. Thank you both for your input. If I used stainless it could be thick enough to use inset beveled screws that would not catch on rocks and wiggle loose, causing water ingress. It could be bedded and glued with a combination of thickened epoxy everywhere except at the screw holes, which could be bedded with butyl. A stainless keel gard would be expensive to fabricate. Does anyone make standard ones that could be cit to length?
  6. Hello All, I bought a beautiflly made Spindrift to be a tender on a crusing sailboat. The boat is supurbally crafted and well maintained. I just got a new reefing ,mainsail and have re-rigged the boat. I am going to repaint, but I have noticed some stress cracks along the gunnels where they meet the hull. Any advice on how to repair them? I am not sure that filling them with thickened epoxy is going to last. Maybe a more elastic product? Also, any advice on what is the most durable material to add to the keel as a sacrificial rubbing strake? Dynel and West? I don't want to nail copper onto
  7. Thank-you for your your help, I have contacted Graham and all questions and problems have been answered and resolved. I am anxious to start sailing this little boat.
  8. Never mind about the sheeve. I found some pictures of sheeves in wooden dinghy masts and cut a slot out of the top of the mast to accept the sheeve. Its painted with epoxy and I'll mount the sheeve in the morning.
  9. Hello All, I am rigging a reefing mainsail to my Spindrift 9n. The top of the mast is tapered to 1 1/8" closet pole. I have a 1 1/8" diameter by 1/4" sheeve that I would have to mount 1" from the top of the mast in order to get luff tension. Would I weaken the mast too much if I were to cut a 3/8" slot 1" from the mast to seat the sheeve? Would I be better off hanging a microblock from a line that is passed through a hole drilled into the top of the mast or through bolting a cheek block on the starboard side of the mast? I am also considering mounting a ratcheting fiddle block in the bot
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