Glen M

Thanks for the info.

Launched my Spindrift for the first time last weekend. Fun Fun Fun. Acording to my gps I sailed close to 17 miles around the bay. This was my first time to sail, and it was a trip, The boat worked great. I especially liked adjusting the sail's outhaul and vang, and then feeeling the difference in power with the change in the sails shape. I did have a small problem though. I am not using a sail with a sleeve, and have wooden mast hoops that are 2 1/2" inner diameter. These did not want to raise properly and would hang up on the aluminum when the sail was raised. They slid across the epoxy joints ok. Is there something else I can use for mast hoops that will slide up and down easily. I am about to experiment with 1/8" SS wire rope rings to fit around the mast, with 9mm roller beads threaded on. Maybe these will roll up the mast. I was wondering what others use that don't hang up. Thanks Glen

Thanks for the help. I dont feel that it is a structural issue though. With the seams stitched, if I lift up on the port stern corner, this side of the stern will stay raised up higher than the starboard side. Same if I lift up on the starboard stern corner, it will stay raised up higher than the port side. She does not want to force her way back into a certian position, and will stay where it was last set. The stern corners will also move slightly up and down if I twist the bow. I was wondering if there is a way to measure this, or some trick to the trade on squareing up the stern with the hull and bow, and if there are any other alignment issues that I am probably missing? Thanks again

Went 3d on my 10N hull this weekend. All pieces fit right together, with exception of the forward bulkhead which needed some minor bottom sanding. When all stitching was completed, it looked as if the hull was twisted. I put a straight edge on the bow and one on the stern gunwales and they were out of level. The hull could be easily twisted into shape to where the edges of the metal were lined up. This being my first attempt at this I don't know the proper procedures for lining up the hull before I start welding the seams? Thanks

Howard Let us know how your test comes out. I e-mailed System 3 tech support and asked if the psi on a joint was stronger on bare wood or a joint that had cured and was properly washed and sanded. I was told: To me it would seem that a bond to wood, would be stronger than a mechanical bond that happens after it has fully kicked. I did try glueing some small pieces of 1/4" together (bare wood) and the thin veneer layer of ply separated when pulled apart. I have not tried glue to glue yet. I was planning on sanding to bare wood on the joint surfaces, but after tech supports response, I may be wasting time. However I am going to sand the hardened stuff off the edges and brush on a thin coat of liquid epoxy when I fillet it out.

Got started on my 10n this weekend. Marked and cut-out all sections. I am now in the process of glueing all the stiffeners on, and getting the rudder and keel assemblies finished. I am thinking about getting all pieces pretty close to being finished before putting boat together. It seems like it would be easier to coat and sand the pieces off the boat. I would have to sand off the finish where the seams are going to be taped, to get good adhesion. Any input on this method.

Thanks for all the great advice from everyone. This forum was the determining factor for me to get this brand of boat. Thanks. I'm pretty sure that this will not be my last question.

Well I guess I'm going to dive in. MY N10 prints came in the other day and after going over them I noticed that it states to laminate 3 sections together for the gunwales, "to keep them from springing out of shape". I wanted to use solid wood strips 1 x 2's with a 3/8" x 3/4" round groove pre-cut down the center, and this glued on. Then screw a length of flexable .742" OD poly-ethel pipe into the groove for the rub rail. Will I still have a "springing" problem with this type of set up, or can I pre - steam bend the wood into shape before I glue it on, and get this to work.