Aethyr

Faintly stamped on edge is "Made in China", sigh. They assured me it was exterior grade glue. And looking at the edge, I don't see any voids. The WRC was gorgeous, no hint of a knot anywhere along the 16'. It has been so long since I worked with wood that picking up the wood and ripping it, a wave of nostalgia waved over me from the scent and gorgeous coloring to the wood. Used my camera phone to snap a few more photos of the wood, which can be seen in this album: Curlew Build Album I have finished 3 of the frames. Waiting to glue it up before doing the curves. I need to figure out a better desk situation. Standing over the ping-pong table for a couple hours has made my back SORE today. But is an ideal place to clamp a scrap piece of wood as a stop for the large square I am using for measurements. I assume on the 4'4.5" frame the 3rd offset is for where the Fanny beam is suggested to go since it didn't add any noticeable curve?

I saw that picture, but couldn't tell what was going on in the black and white version in the ebook. I was poking around to see if I could find some weight/strength measurements for the birch plywood. Seems these guys are producing baltic birch in 4'x8' http://www.boulterplywood.com/MultiLayerPlywood_4.htm (Also they use the exterior glue on only the 4'x8', which is what the supplier told me as well). I will take some pictures when I get it home tonight. I was hoping to do all the lofting on the table before glueing down the paper to the plywood. But in order to do the curves where the water pressure pushes in the skin without the glue/nails/thin wood or plastic, I either need to use a large compass + http://www.1728.org/circsect.htm (Chord + Segment height calculator, set compass to radius) or freehand it. Any other methods? Or am I overthinking it?

Found a place that has Baltic Birch 1/2" 4'x8' exterior grade glue, no voids for 59 and 1"x4"x16' clear WRC for 1.92 Board/Ft, for $120 total. It will be in tomorrow morning. I know I could get the WRC from a big box, but then I would have to scarf at least 1 join, if not more in the case of knots. Oh, and they will rip it for me.

I have been calling around trying to find some marine grade plywood. The only place I have found so far wants $100 for a 4'x8'x.5". Is the exterior stuff that much worse?

We have Home Depot, Lowes and Menards for big box stores, as well as several lumber yards. I rather support the local lumber yards if they are anywhere close on price. Do you flip the board vertical and rip it down for the 5/8" thickness (1.5" / 2 - 1/16 = 11/16, with 1/16 to spare for sanding?)

First frame is outlined. I need the stringers/gunwales cut before I continue, since I don't know the exact size they will be. 1" board = 3/4". Plans call for 5/8". Will the piece I get have 1 nice side, then plane the other side down 1/8"? Can I plane it just 1/16"? I also have to locate a plane. Time to try and find a decent cedar board in Kalamazoo MI. I have a neighbor several doors down that runs an amateur saw mill. Perhaps I can get some boards from him? And/or borrow some tools.

Reading it on the original Nook: The table of Offsets appear to be images, and the image doesn't resize on the Nook screen. So when viewing it on the Nook screen, I loose the left hand size's X and Y coordinates and the right hand side's Z coordinates (works fine on the computer). If the table could either be broken up into 2 or 3 tables per row, it would make it so it wouldn't get cut off. It also appears to be a highly compressed JPG, making the numbers pretty hard to read (both on the Nook and on the computer screen). I would suggest either changing the compression of the JPG or insert it as a PNG formatted image. Other than that, there are just a few blank pages for some reason, but overall, great work!

Doh, was hoping to start this weekend since SWMBO is out of town. Thanks for looking into it though! And what do you know, it just showed up!!!! http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/fuselage-frame-boats-s-jeff-horton/1104972663?ean=2940013756953&itm=1&usri=fuselage+frame+boats

Still hasn't shown up in neither "Fuselage Frame Boat" nor "S. Jeff Horton". I don't know if I am searching wrong or they are taking an unexpectedly long time to post the book on their site?

Sweet!

I really like calibre, and if worse comes to worse, I will use it to convert. But I found the conversion often messes up some formatting (titles, page numbers, tables, pictures, etc). It tends to be readable, but if the author has it in the correct format, all the better. I am willing to wait a week to start. Jeff - I would be willing to "beta test" (or whatever you call it in the writing world) your epub version. Basically, find any formatting errors as they appear on different devices/software (I have a Motorola Droid 3, Calibre's native reader, Adobe Digital Editions, and an original Nook). I have fixed up non-DRM epubs before, so I do understand the internal format (Basically a zipped folder full of HTML pages. You can even change the extension to .ZIP and open it up. If you know HTML, editing it is a breeze.)

It is a bit easier to have my nook along with me in the workshop then a computer. And no sawdust in ports/keyboard.

Thanks for the quick response

Kudzu - On your facebook page, you mentioned you are starting to offer ebook versions. I have a nook, not a kindle, and was hoping you offered it in EPUB or PDF format? How would I go about ordering it from your website?