dstgean

Good idea. I like the halyard aft and to weather for the mast support as well. Dan Should be an exciting race this year!

Is the offset centerboard to allow full length boards/stringers to back up the ply :?: Dan

I'm pretty sure there will have to be a running backstay for that duty as a jib, genoa, or spin all impart tons of stress to the masthead. That said, the EC22 really interests me even though I'm a multi guy. If plans come out...8) Dan

Graham, What is the step down on the interior in the bow are for? A resting area? Dan

Between that knife like bow and the planing stern, that thing should fly! As for the cats not going upwind...you ought to check out the Angles the A cats and F16/or 18 are able to achieve. 8) So, when will plans be available? Dan

What do I need to adjust on my computer to see everyone's photos. Dan :oops:

Graham, I see you have the core sound cat, but have you thought about makeing a "butterfly" style hull of perhaps 16-20 feet? I'd be more interested in spirited cruising and as such, a greater length to beam ratio could be used than on a racer. Most of the camp cruising seems focused on monos, but I could see a few advantages of having a cat in a some situations. 1. Dry out level. 2. Fast with a comfortable motion. 3. Have a regular tent on deck for camp cruising. 4. Use the hulls for stowage. 5. Easy to trailer and good for daysailing too. Dan

Looks like Graham gets some more coverage in print! Great story that really whets my appetite to go sailing. Dan

Congrats! You guys had a great race! Dan

Graham, I'm about to launch the Hawaiian outrigger next weekend and was thinking about how to add tramps in a reasonable manner. Since the crossbeams are 10'3" apart, how stout should the fore and aft beams be considering I'd like a tight tramp surface with the ability to have two big guys out there. I talked to a tramp manufacturer who suggested using mast sections to use a luff groove and lace it with slugs on the opposite side. I was thinking of having the tramp have a few sleeves. Perhaps have a sleeve over the aft aka with and a sleeve one the outboard end with a second very short sleeve for the foreward end to tension it fore/aft. Teh inboard end could be tensioned over a second fore/aft beam. The questions I have for you are: 1. How strong do the beams fore/aft need to be to tension the tramps and support two big guys? Should I make them out of wood, aluminum tube, or mast sections? I'd rather not spend as much on the tramps as the whole boat.... What kind of aluminum section would I need to handle that kind of span with that weight. 2. Sailrite has 78" tramp fabric for 13 buck a yard. Could I sew it with a regular sewing maching, have a custom tramp manufactured, or have an awning company sew to my design? 3. How much room on the inboard end do you think I need to be able to paddle? Dan

Good plan. Any idea of what sort of cleat I should use for the snotter? I was thinking of an aluminum v cleat with a fairlead so that with a know in the end of the snotter it will be unable to fly off through the harbor if it slips. Dan

I built that nice double tapered round spar a 12'--1.25" at each end and 2.25" in the middle. Pity I wasted my time on something 1.5' too short.

I guess that should have read snotter cleat ON the sprit.

What sort of hook, snap shackle, or other hardware are you using for the main sheet attachment? Also, what kind of cleat are you using for the sprit? I have a 3:1 tackle that will send the line back down the sprit.

Graham and others, I must admit with embarrasment :oops: that my sprit is about a foot and a half shorter than it should have been. Twelve feet long gets it out past the mast by over a foot while horizontal, but crank it up to 5'6" over the dounhauled tack and I'm short. After making this double tapered round douglas fir spar, I'm back in the spar making business. After hearing what Charlie Jones did for the Princess 22 sprits, I'm going to do the same. Laminate up a few clear, straight boards, plane them square, router the edges with a quarter round bit, and seal it with epoxy. What sort of section should I use? Is two inches too small? 2.25"? My sail is 128 square feet with an 11' foot. Thanks for any help you can provide. Dan

I need all the length of the sprit I can get and was thinking of putting a dowel in the end of the sprit. Any recommendations?

That makes sense to me. I do have a downhaul setup to achieve tension on the luff. I must have confused the meaning of one of the terms. My downhaul is either 3:1 or 4:1--I'd have to look to be sure. I like the eyestrap solution with several possible locations. What height from parallel to the waterline should they be? 6" above, right at horizontal, and 6" below? Should I just wait and lash it until I get a better idea of how it willaffect sail performance? Should I add a leather chafe guard to the sprit to pad the mast/sprit rub points? I also have a multipart purchase for the snotter. I was trying to send you some pictures to your email, but I kept getting bounced at onboard@bandbyachtdesigns.org Dan

I thought with the sprit boom experts here at the B & B site I'd get at least one response...perhaps I worded it wrong. Does anyone have advice for setting up the sprit as in the first post? Thanks, Dan St. Gean

Graham, Thanks so much for all your help on the Ulua Hawaiian outrigger project. It is coming along well as I not have the hull mostly complete, iakos done, and the amas in the fairing stage. Just curious what you think about a couple of topics. 1. When reefing should I use the downhaul on the reefing tack grommet or install a reef hook on the mast and use the halyard? 2. When setting up the snotter, I was thinking of putting a dowel in the clew end of the sprit. Should the sprit poke through the clew grommet or just the webbing. Further, is the reef point rigged differently since there is no webbing there? How do I bundle the clew end of the sail when reefed? 3. To allow some flexibility of raising or lowering the sprit angle I was thinking of attaching a spinnaker track to the front of the mast and using a spin car with ring to hook the snotter to the mast end. Then I can use the plunger style pin to adjust the snotter angle. thoughts?

Hi Graham, I'm finished with the mast short of painting and attaching hardware. It's going to work great with the luff round you had cut into the sail. I'm about to start on the akas now wor the tri and connecting the whole mess together. When we talked about sail square footage, what were the numbers we were using for righting moment? Was this for an overall beam of ama to ama? I need to get some numbers on both width and the dimensions of the crossbeam itself. It seems that most of the Hawaiian outriggers I have seen have gone with bent laminated crossbeams lashed to the hull--even the most modern ones. Any idea what would be a good thickness and width for these pieces? What will stand up to 128 sf of sail? :?: Thanks, Dan

Should I be using an internal or external halyard on a freestanding rig?

I'm about to finish building a freestanding mast for my Ulua Hawaiian outrigger. I ordered the tanbark Sprit boom from Graham and need to figure out how to rig the mast and sails. First the mast itself. I am using 3.5" 6061 T6 aluminum for the lower section and a hollow tapered birdsmouth section for the upper. I am unsure as to whether I will be building them to seperate like the hobie masts or a full length section. I know I need at least a foot of overlap on the two sections, but don't know how much I will need in terms of overall length. The foot length is 19'3", the bury may be close to 18", and I will need some space to see beneath the foot of the sail--perhaps 18". This gives me about 21'3' of overall length. How much more mast length do I need for the sheave for the halyard? Should I rig the downhaul right to the mast, or would it be better to take a turn through a block and cleat it to the deck? It seems like the second alternative would limit the sail's ability to spin freely. As for the sprit, how should I rig this? I have a leg o mutton with a foot of 11'. How long should my sprit be? Should I build a laminated curved sprit boom or go with the straight sprit? Should the height of the sprit be adjustable? Finally, the mainsheet. For 128 feet of sail, how many part purchase should I be using? Should I be using a taveler or keep it simple? Thanks for the collective knowledge of this group! Sincerely, Dan St. Gean [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin]

Charlie, I am ordering a sail from Graham for a project I'm building. It is a 21' Hawaiian outrigger with amas on both sides to make a tri. I am trying to find a tapered section 6061 aluminum tube. I havn't found anything, but I can get straignt sided tubing and mate a tapered birds mouth setion to the top like you have done. What overlap are you using to preserve the strength of the mast? What thickness are you using for the staves of the birdsmouth section? Did you taper the thickness of those as well as the width? I believe I may try this method as well. Other that asthetics, what are the advantages of the tapered section vs a full length aluminum tubing of the same section? Dan

I'm about ready to rig my Ulua sailing canoe and havn't yet decided whether or not to go with the "biplane rig" with Graham's spirit rigs and aluminum rigs or to go with the windsurfer style mast. The other alternative is to order a Hobie Getaway rig and make the boat a traditional catamaran with a sloop. A third option is the Hobie Bravo roller furling-fully battened rigs one per hull. Perhaps a call to Graham is the best option. Thanks, Dan

Hi all, I have been building a Gary Dierking designed Hawaiian outrigger that I will be using as a cat primarily(after failing to convince Graham that he should design a small crusing cat). I have the first hull nearly complete and will be stripping and finishing the second hull some time in the next few weeks. A bit of a long process, but a beautiful product. My question is really about using aluminum tubes for the mast sections and cross beams. I see many of you have used regular aluminum tubing for your cat ketch rigs. I was thinking of doing the same depending on what the large carbon fiber windsurfer rigs cost used. I'll be having an overall beam of between 11-12 feet and each hull is 18"x21'. I could laminate up some wooden crossbeams which might be more in keeping with the flavor of the boat, but want to explore the aluminum option as well. Any experience and leads for a guy in the Chicago area?