SBknox

My son saw me building my brothers coaming and decided he would like to have a boat also. Looking around I saw the FreeB12 and thought it would be just the right size for a 12 year old to start in. The first coaming I made cleaned up at 1 3/16" high due to my "first time" problems. It should work fine on a smaller boat. I've started another for my brother that will clean up at the full 1 1/2" height. The coamings are of 5 layers of 3/32" ash and a 5 layer lip on the top. I was amazed at how strong the finished product is. I did a much better job on the second coaming, having had some practice. I drew the plans from the coordinates on my cadd program and had them plotted at a friends architectural office. Glued them on the ply and started cutting. I tried sanding the paper off and boy what a mess. The heat gun will peal the paper right up and with a scrubbing with mineral spirits, the glue residue came right off. Much easier to sand. The strong back is built and ready. I used 2 2x6x16 screwed together in a "T" and built sawhorse style legs for support. The shelf is the piece of ash for the coamings. Multitasking material! The brackets are leveled and aligned to a string. Tomorrow I plan to sand the frames and cut out the stringers. Hopefully, Sunday afternoon I can start mounting to the strongback. Jordan is a big UT fan and decided his boat must be orange. So off to Lowe's we go for Rustoleum. You would think in Knoxville orange would be a staple color. Nope! But if you take two quarts of Safety Yellow and slowly add Safety Red, presto, UT Orange! Needless to say, It feels great to see your boys eyes light up. I can't decide what boat to build for myself. I like the look of Jeff's Shad. Maybe it will be ready by the time Jordan's and Scott's are finished. If anyone is on the fence about starting one of Jeff's boats, I say go for it. I haven't enjoyed a project this much in a long time.

Jerry, Yes, the top lip is glued onto the main 7/16"x1 3/16" body. This was pretty quick with the coaming off the form. The total width at the top was 7/8". I'm attempting to add the pictures, not sure if its loading or not. Steve

Can anyone tell me how to post pictures when replying to someone's elses post? I couldn't figure it out.

Jerry, I tried to attach the pictures but didn't have any luck. Instruction would be welcome! Steve

Hello Jerry, Be sure to get the first wrap onto the form nice and tight. My first attempt wasn't tight enough and it didn't do well at all, left too many gaps. Started over with special attention to getting it very tight to the form and it worked much better. I tapered the starting lap with a block plane to make a smooth transition and it worked well. I also found that double clamping the laps on the top and bottom removed almost all of the gaps I was getting on the first attempt. I just set my form on top of a few paint cans. Also be sure to keep the top edge of each lap as even as possible so you won't loose to much of the 1 1/2" total height during clean up. This one is made out of ash and finished out at 7/16"x 1 3/16" with the skirt lip at 7/16"x7/16". It seems to be very stout. Steve

Sorry for not being clear. I've cut 3/32"x 1 1/2" ash strips. How many layers should I glue up for a total thickness? I would guess 7/16" to the 1/2" total glued-up thickness. Is that going to be strong enough, or should I go thicker? The 3/8" part of my question, when adding the portion on the upper edge for the spray skirt lip, same 7/16" build-up?

What would you recommend for the total built up thickness of a laminated coamings 1 1/2" tall portion? Next, the width of the 3/8" lip portion? I've been elected, since I'm the cabinet maker, to build the form and glue up Scott's coaming. I've watched the videos and these dimensions are not given. Scott said it wasn't in the manual either. Thanks for the help. Steve

I bought a gallon of the Zar ext-ob-poly that I'll go ahead and use. I have good quality spray equipment and would guess maybe 2 coats from one quart. How many coats would you recommend? I'd still like to tint the poly since this isn't the water clear like the Dura-Tuff. What colors have you tried tinting and with what results?

Jeff, What finish did you you use on the white Vardo in the photo section of your website. I understand that the Zar will abmer in application. This boat looks pretty white. Thanks, Steve

Jeff, What have you used to dye the polyester? Steve

I am new to this hobby and very excited to get started. I looked over the western red cedar at the lumber yard this week and they had plenty to choose from. 7/8" thick and pretty clear. My question is regarding scarfs. Since I have no reference points yet, would someone be kind enough to post a photo of a stringer with a knot in it that is considered acceptable. When looking thru the boards, it will help me to know what will "float" and what won't. (pun intended)