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OB 26 custom hull build


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After building my cabin hull and seeing an empty shed, I got to talking to a fellow that's in the process of working towards retirement and he was looking  to get on the water at the end of his career. So I said while I was constantly being sent to my doghouse when being bugged by the bride about honey do projects not getting done I may as well be productive  over the winter and build a boat. ? 


This was the first fully cut jig that's now being offered in stages, in my case as the jig gets fine tuned. We will be going with an engine bracket , replacing the engine mounted on the transom and splashwell.  I think there can be an alternative option  if you wish of a full hull extension I suppose from talking at great length.  This will be a slow process and redundant for many that's watched the cold molded process of a hull. But I will add some eyewash slowly on occasions .  

I will give a shout out to Ken [Kennessee ] and a lot of positive feedback from his two seasons on the water that helped in the planning stage. This helped in some decision making in the hull tweaking that will make a positive impact in the completed hull layout down the road. 

And thanks to Alan and Graham for responding to  many questions and listening to us for months on end to get us to this point. 


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Hello all,

I am the guy that has been hounding Oyster for close to 2 years now with questions and scenarios. I saw his previous boat for sale on CL and we got to talking about a Bluejacket build. Much like Ken, I really fell for the look of the OB designs. Since I have limited boat building experience (rebuilt a S&G kayak last year) and still working full time plus, I decided to have Oyster build the hull for me. I have been in construction and carpentry for my whole life so hoping I can handle the cabin work. Been lurking on this and other sites for about 3 years soaking up knowledge. I plan to go down to his shop a few times to help with the build as well. I am also planning the boat shed now so it will be ready when we flip the hull and load it on a trailer. Thanks for having me on this great forum.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Bowbert I don't know if the full set of plans are avaliable. I do have related sheets that details the jig setup, with comments printed on the pages reflecting the setup of the parts.  I have been plowing along on some parts details and gluing up the fixed frames and stringers. I have cut the deck cleats that goes along side of the stringers and when the hull is flipped this added area gives you plenty of area to secure your decks in place . 


I have all the side battens cut and edge routered and plan on coating them with sealer before installing them in place. I have used solid mahogany for the foward deck beam glued to the main foward bulkhead. Yes that's a wee bit more weight than using plywood for the side frames. But that's just me.  Just some misc shots 

bow jigs , bulkhead in place.JPG

foward deck beam .JPG

main cabin frame.JPG

roughed in bracket parts.JPG

wooden cleats for decking.JPG

glued up puzzle joints.JPG

foward most bulkhead.JPG

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Oyster, I am really looking forward to following your OB26 build, am new to the joy/frustration/challenge/experience of boat building (have started my first, OB20 last year, would have loved the 26, but even the 20 only just fits the space I have). I really appreciate the experience and craft you and others bring to this forum. Has been invaluable and envy-inducing. 

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  • 4 months later...

Well its been a slow go with several distractions. But I am slowly making my way to planking the hull. I have the bottom ready to glass, but  I am doing some additional details to the bottom and some inside tabbing to the main bulkheads while its upside down. I have the bracket done and did change the horn timber setup  bringing one of the layers along side of one of the keel members and the other one is butted and fastened in place to the main keel.   


I am also adding a small skeg and have brought the foward end down the forefoot and tapered it out half the way down. This will have a glass shoe on it and hopefully will be a buffer when beaching in shallow water cruising.  






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  • 1 month later...

Just a little update from up in Ct. Oyster is making good progress and hope to join him for a week of work on the hull next month. I have been putting the boat shed up here. Been saving extra materials from side jobs for years so building this cheap. got it all roofed this past weekend.




shed 5.jpg


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Nice shed, she will have a first class home on land.


Well a lot of glass work has been done on the bottom. I have the entire bottom glassed and working towards the first coat of fairing compound.  We modified the large flat bow forefoot, which was generated by the bottom planking deadrise, since it did not look right to the eye. . 


Since I had the tapered skeg that finished off into the curve, I added two pieces of solid mahogany, overlaying the tapered layers over the glass shoe that runs the entire length of the bottom  on the entire skeg and then sanded the continuing deadrise  on the sides.


The glass shoe is close to 3/16". So between the mahogany and the glass, hopefully there will be little damage to the bottom under normal run shallow water contacts. 


This gives me the nice 1 plus inch flat surface that will work better for the entire bow when the sides are planked, even though the edges got rounded over. This will work  nicely for the bow eye to sit flat when installed .Then I tab glassed the add on to the sides. I will add to the face of the existing stem and work my side battens and planking into that area to the top of the stem. 


  This still tapered into the flatter skeg area, just further up and still gives me the raise skeg for beaching and for taking the abuse of shallow water beaching or running in inshore. 




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  • 3 months later...

Merry Christmas to everyone. I have been making progress, just haven't gotten to the point of posting some of the boring progress of planking.  The big guy came for a bit and sped up the progress with assembly line precision, operating the sharpie for the cuts and the kept the screw gun smoking. Luckily the screw gun had a protective coating of epoxy to cool down the heat transfer to the hands.😄🤣 Will provide pictures in the next couple of days when I get things cleaned up on the one side. 

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Thanks for the interest in watching grass grow and the replies. It was a pleasure to work along side of the new hire. The price was right, a piece of baloney with one piece of white bread per day. 😁 I have been busy making progress with some additional details between finishing up the second layer. Of course the new shot does not show the detail of the team care of getting the first layer as fair as possible for the second layer, which deals with how much work you will need in the glassing and fairing process before paint. So for anyone considering a cold mold hull, while you want to get the hull planked up, spend time in the set up phase and when you are installing your battens that they are fair the entire running length.


Then as you are gluing up the thinner first layer don't attempt to screw your layers right at the butt seams, which will create deeper areas to fill when you are applying the thickened glue for the second layer  before you want to install the second layer. And of course you really do not want to grind down the any humps a way back from the seams if you tighten down too close to the edge.


Figure your second layer that they will land middle way of the first layer, which will further make the outer laminate fairer by the natural tendency in the first layer to not be so flat to the battens.  Hope this will help someone watching. Will be grinding all the edges to shape at the sheer and reverse chine flats and clean up all the excess seam resin  this week. 


At this point in time I will figure out what I think will be the location of the bow eye for the trailer, since we have one for it to fit on   before I work on the opposing side and get it ready for planking.  I like to do this because its much easier with the access when standing along side of the area.  Since the stem back is open I can do what I need to counter bore and recess any coupler for an extension since I have not been  able to access 1/2" bow eyes with the threaded shafts long enough to fasten to the back side with its nuts on the original ends. More to follow on my process, unless someone can tell me where I can find approx 5 inch stainless steel eyebolts.


And yes as you can see my moaning chair has filled up a bit too.🤪


Okay now


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12 hours ago, ejds said:

Thanks for the link. I would like to use the two threaded shank set up, which most have a small plate in which assists in sealing the region in and around the drilled holes. In the past  the single shank has had the tendency to spin , which means there is a potential overtime for the water to wick around the shaft and into the underside of the glass region of the stems.  All of the Simmons used single shank eye bolts, even though the use of  beading compounds  was absent. But I just want to hopefully remove this possible problem.  Check in sometime and give me an update on your shed facility for your own yacht. 

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