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Guest Chris Beebe

Ocracoke 256 #3

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Thanks

I really enjoy your built, hope you get it done soon so we can have 3 in the water

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Finally got the rub rail installed, 1" solid back SS as per plans. A lot of work fitting , bending & polishing we have been running her with out it and it had been worrying me we also installed the rest of the electronics ( radar, search light, tunes and a few other stuff). 

 

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I'm still staring at my set of plans over here... I have one major criticism of your boat: Man, why did you have to set the bar so high? I mean, it's hard to imagine that boat looking any better. Some fish blood, maybe? 

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The reason we used solid back rub rail is because it bends better the hollow back will flair and spread on tight bends, also the hollow back will cut the paint and finish when it gets hit. I did not want to spend that much  but I ended up getting a really good deal on the material through a friend. It took 110' of rub rail 16' sections and about 20 hours of labor to get it fitted. Some of the bends are pretty tight and hollow back will not have made it look as good.

Using hollow back is definitely cheaper ( probably 1/5 of the cost) but also when you have an end piece you will have to use a prefabricated  end and that looks OK just not what I wanted, when we installed the rail we coated the back of it with 4000 UV and also all the screws where sealed.

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Agreed, solid back is the way to go, if you can afford it. Tight bends also force, as you've found, the decision. It also more uniformly spreads impact loads on the rub.

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I used solid bronze on my Lapwing (stem to keel) for the same reasons, though I didn't have any tight curves.  Another negative is the weight, which is important to me even though my boat is a casual daysailor.  It just seems like it is worth it where fending off is concerned.  As always: "Damned 'cause it's all connected".

 

Nice job on the fitting/shaping.  Looks sharp and like it will function well.

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One of the things I always first look at on a home built are the edges; chines, deck lines and rails. Getting these on, so they look straight, even if they're curved in all three planes, can be daunting and a sure sign of a novice builder if they aren't. When I visited Chick a couple of years ago, he noticed as I walked up his driveway, I was eyeballing the lines, the chine, the raised deck line, etc. Yeah, I got caught, but it's what experienced builders do, we can't help it. He'd done such a nice job, he had little to be concerned about anyway. Another thing I focus on is the intersections of pieces, like a break in the half oval at the bow eye, just to be continued further up the stem, a windscreen cross brace, etc. Are they balanced, proportional, symmetrical? Same deal, it's what draws the eye and focus, so areas you can divide the men from the boys.

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Hi gbt,

 

Changing the subject slightly are you able to give me the dimensions of your hard top?

 

Thanks

 

Tim

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The top is 5'6" X 8'6" by the way it is a soft top we used an aluminum half round band to fasten the fabric to the T-top instead of rope it makes it cleaner.

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