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Abyssdncr

Wallops Island 12 build

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Lash it or some other temporary method and see how it feels before you commit to anything. 'IT SHOULD' be stable at a the taller height but everyone define stable differently. If you plan on using a cushion on the seat, I would go under the rail. 1/2" of height can make a dramatic difference.

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I had no idea on the seat, but I'm pretty sure Jeff knows what he's talking about. :)

This little canoe looks really nice. It is going to be marvelous once it's done!

Peace,

Robert

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Got all the floorboards ripped, cut to length, routed, sanded, rounded, and barely started lashing today. Will wait on the seat determination until after test paddles. The frame should get BLOwn by tomorrow evening!

However, I did get to doing some elementary thought exercises regarding the seat rails... Are those two 1"x5/8" sticks really going to hold up to my 215 lb butt on them? It seems like a lot of a bending load to me, and I really don't want to have to lash in replacements after I get it all skinned. Thought about epoxying in some full length pieces of 1/8" aluminum angle, but that sounds kinda ugly just thinking about it.

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I don't think anyone has taken a FROG shoot to a turf farm till now  ;-)

The other end of my backyard is a runway!

 

Now I'm jealous. What do you fly?

I just sold our Cessna 170 but we're restoring a second.

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Judging by the lawn, I'd say a used A300... Heh heh.

The boat looks slick. I might be tempted to just kneel on a pad. I find it a very effective way to single paddle a canoe or pirogue, and it is my preferred method for serious river running.

You might could even sit on the floor with a double, being as you're a bigun, like me.:)

Peace,

Robert

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Now I'm jealous. What do you fly?

I just sold our Cessna 170 but we're restoring a second.

Just a lowly C150, but you can't beat the operating costs. Restoring a C140 as well.

I think I'll swipe a few of my wife's yoga blocks to start with trying out seat heights and positions.

Canvas pliers show up today, but I think I still have a few days of frame oiling to go. Got some nice really tight weave 10oz poly for the covering, so I'm hoping I won't have to spend a week chasing pinholes.

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Hey, what do y'all use for excess sticky pools of BLO? Apparently, I need to upgrade the side lighting in th shop, because I've really slathered a few spots and have a bunch of excess to clean up before covering...

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That's really turning out to be a pretty boat. 

I might have to try that next as my wife was talking about how nice it might be to have a canoe as well.

The frames would make a really fun lamination project too.

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Base coat of Rustoleum almond down. 3 coats seems sufficient. Will try to get the trim paint on tomorrow.

I heard the voice of, "Better safe than sorry..." last night when one of the thwarts popped free flipping it around on the bench. TBIII gave way...and they are lashed now.

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0824162049_zpszaesewcm.jpg

0824162048_zpskmqsbyel.jpg

0824162047a_zpsscyoqsbx.jpg

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Abyssdncr:

By way of backing up to the discussion of seat position, one of my fleet is an Old Town Pack Canoe, which is similar in proportions to this boat. The stock seat was mounted up under the rail. This didn't feel comfortable, so I removed the seat and replaced it with a plain thwart. The boat can now be paddled two ways: 1) sitting on a cushion (Type 4 PFD) on the floor with a double paddle or 2) kneeling on the floor with a single paddle Native American style. I recommend trying this first and adding a seat later, if needed.

Fair winds, Andy

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To late now, but that is really too tight.  When you deform the stringers like that you no longer have the smooth curves that were designed in the boat and your are going to have a turbulent flow of water around the boat. The goal is a nice smooth curve from bow to stern.

 

 

Tips sewn and skin ironed. Really snugged the stringers in tight!

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Finally ready for paint!

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I figured as much, Jeff, but I guess this is how learning by experience and the school of hard knocks works. I figured the shape would create some extra drag, but also figured that the vessel speed would be so slow that it shouldn't actually experience the flow separation associated with turbulence. I probably should have ironed the shipping creases and wrinkles out prior to skinning, because the canvas pliers worked wonderfully in getting the skin drum tight.

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Abyssdncr:

By way of backing up to the discussion of seat position, one of my fleet is an Old Town Pack Canoe, which is similar in proportions to this boat. The stock seat was mounted up under the rail. This didn't feel comfortable, so I removed the seat and replaced it with a plain thwart. The boat can now be paddled two ways: 1) sitting on a cushion (Type 4 PFD) on the floor with a double paddle or 2) kneeling on the floor with a single paddle Native American style. I recommend trying this first and adding a seat later, if needed.

Fair winds, Andy

Wallops is the same length as FreeB, so I'm going to start with that seat location as a starting point.

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