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AmosSwogger

Core Sound 20 Mark 3 Build - Chesapeake, VA

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Hi Amos, I don't have a lot of thoughts! Anyway, I'm never gone long enough to need to recharge, so no need for solar panels, but, I do like an electrical system for nav. lights, interior reading light, place to plug in a phone charger, spot light, etc. I kinda like a built in cassette and/or CD player for my old fogey music. a deep cycle 12 volt battery is all I need to run it all. It helps to have LED lights.

 

But, get-r-done and get that thang in the water. Go PLAY!

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Fiberglassed the cabin top.  Used 10 oz on the fwd. part, and two layers of 6 oz on the aft part (I ran out of 10 oz.).

 

20180124_105137.thumb.jpg.a90e145f4d1041c6d8ea8c0acfee8e09.jpg

 

20180127_133737.jpg.1febf176a694e701849205db71ed3a15.jpg

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That looks like a good idea, especially up around the anchor well. I'll add that on every sailboat I've ever owned, my kids are always attracted to the bow. I'll be the kids will want to climb around up there.

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I didn't glass my cabin on the Breeze, but with kids and anchors, it looks like a good idea. Looks like ya got a good helper. And the boat's looking GREAT! Hey, that hatch and "mini garage" at the front sure look familiar!

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I am planning to attach a toe rail like Graham did on "Carlita" ( link to Carlita's picture).  Should I:

 

1)  epoxy it down (using screws as clamps, then removing the screws and filling the holes with epoxy)

or

2)  paint the boat, then screw the toerail down without epoxy and leave the screws in place?

 

 

 

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Toe rail or rub rail? I like to leave rib rails mechanically fastened over bedding, because it's going to get replaced eventually, so this should be relatively easy. If glued, it will not be. Toe rails too get replaced, but usually after it got bashed by something, so not the eventuality of a run rail. As far as I'm concerned, a toe rail on a small sailor is just a decorative device, so maybe you can just glue it down.

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Personally, I like toe rails bedded, because it requires a caulk line which is easier to paint/varnish against. It also means you can remove it, clean up any dings and nicks, re-varnish to perfection and reinstall over more beading. I find this neater to do, but it all depends on you. The toe rail will be more waterproof and durable if it's 'glassed place, but varnishing is more difficult as are repairs, this way. If I 'glassed it down, I'd likely paint it instead of varnish, which can look nearly as good and is much easier to maintain. I did this on a buddy's 40' power yacht a few years ago (refinished the whole exterior). Only the rail cap (really nice mahogany) was left varnished. The rest of the bright work; cabin top trim, windshield frame, grab rails, bases under ventilators, etc., were painted a similar brown as the rail caps varnish. He didn't even notice I painted them for a week, when I got a call about "you painted my varnish . . .".  "Yeah Pete, I painted your varnish, but you didn't notice for a week and it's a whole lot easier to touch up the paint or even redo the paint than the varnish, so do you want me to strip them down and apply more varnish, or" . . .  Having owned this old wooden cruiser for a couple of decades and applied many gallons of varnish, never being fully satisfied with the quality of the finish or it's longevity . . . he understands now.

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Makes sense PAR; thanks for the advice; I am trying to minimize the amount of varnished wood (this goes against my nature as a woodworker).

 

I think I will epoxy down the toe rail though, mainly because I don't trust screws alone to hold it down long term.  There isn't a whole lot of "meat" underneath the toe rail to screw into.

 

In hopes of helping future builders, upon trial and error on scrap wood I found a bevel of 13 degrees works out well for the bottom of the toe rail (if this bevel ends up in the plans, please disregard my number!).

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I'm getting ready to make a "catch" for holding the mizzen mast while trailering.  Probably a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway; is it meant to hold the forward or aft end of the mast when trailering?  I want to make sure I cut in the correct diameter.

 

Here is a picture of the catch I'm referring to.

 

post-1823-0-82561900-1449867897.jpg.a0ac81a1a7d074bea287c2a145b1c73d.jpg

 

 

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This holds the upper end of the mizzen. Leave the bottom attached and lower top into crutch. Main mast lowers onto boom gallows.

 

I leave the sprits attached to the masts. Unhook the sheets from sprits. Pull the topping lift to raise the sprit to the top of the mast while still standing, then lower the masts. Bungee or tie the sprits to the masts so they don't "rattle around".

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Raise the sprits to the top of the mast. Brilliant! I'll have to try that. I don't like a topping lift in place all the time because it seems to always catch the ends of the battens when hoisting but i could deal with one that mostly stayed clipped on the mast until it was time to drop the sails. 

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I am in the same boat, not pun intended. I find the stock trailer selection a bit maddening to sort out. I am going to start a new thread for this topic and we can work this out.

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I'm going to talk to a trailer shop today.  If I had experience with trailers I would go used, but I don't so new it is.

 

I'll let know you how it goes Steve.

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On 3/27/2018 at 12:45 AM, AmosSwogger said:

I'm working on getting a trailer.    @Alan Stewart

 

What is the waterline length? 
 

 

Alan sent me this information Amos: 223 1/2" or 5.67m.

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