Jknight611 Posted November 16, 2016 Report Share Posted November 16, 2016 Amos, 'bout time for a progress report? Looks like your kids are having a great time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 I just finished sanding down the bunk supports (that was real fun!). I was thinking about glueing down the cabin bunk tops, but realized I hadn't put in a cleat on the module. I feel like a real boatbuilder now that I have used some props. I enjoyed getting a chance to look at your boat Jay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Your boat is coming right along! Looking good! Real good! See you at next year's Messabout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 Getting close to putting the bunk tops on but need to finish underneath. After sanding and coat of epoxy everything come out looking good (too bad no one will see it!). The dark colored fillets are caused by running out of B&B filler and using sawdust to supplement/stretch out my supply until I could get some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Anderson Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 That is a shame no one will be able to see under there. That is some very nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted November 19, 2016 Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Very very nice work Amos. I can testify that it is very satisfying once you have epoxied the area and then fit the prepared bunk tops. (I did three coats - first one sanded then the third onto the second while it was still green). I also coated the bunk tops prior to gluing them in and used masking tape on the lines that would be glued so that the epoxy and glue would soak in a bit and maximise the bond. As for me, I'm finishing the cabin sole and will then paint out the entire cabin area prior to fitting the cabin top (deckhead). Will post pics once the painting is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Thanks for the tips on the bunk tops Drew. Looking forward to seeing your cabin area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 What would you guys recommend for an access hatch in bulkhead 1 (to access the area under the anchor well)? An 8" (outside diameter) Armstrong hatch would require cutting a 6.75" opening. Will cutting an opening of that size comprimise the structural integrity of the bulkhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Amos, I have no recommendation for you, sorry, but I wanted to congratulate you on your progress. You are a diligent lot! Peace, Robert 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Stewart Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Amos, You can definitely make a hole that size without compromising the structure. The beckson screw type ports are another option and a bit cheaper than armstrong for an area that not be splashed with water often. -Alan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Amos, I have put a 6 inch screw-in port in that area, mostly just for ventilation and to be able to inspect the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 OK, thanks guys; I'll put in a 6" screw-in port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted November 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 I have the bunk tops installed and filleted/glass taped in place. They are pretty solid but flex a little when walked upon. Should I fiberglass the surface of the bunks tops to reduce the flex? Once the cabin is in place they won't be walked on like they are now, so maybe it is isn't necessary. I don't want to waste time with it if I don't have to. Thanks in advance for your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Hmmm, something that you lie on flexes and gives and you want to stop that by doing more work and adding more weight? I find that rephrasing a question some times helps. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted November 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Ha! Good reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted November 29, 2016 Report Share Posted November 29, 2016 Nope, live with the flex until you don't need to walk around on it anymore. A light sheathing isn't going to help much in this regard anyway. If you're truly concerned about the amount of flex, lay a hunk of 3/4" plywood over the area, so you can walk around on that, until the cabin is installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 Amos, your epoxy work is outstanding! You should be proud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted December 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 Thanks Don, just trying to meet the standard set by the Local Honey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted December 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 Paint Question: I put down a coat of Interlux Brightsides (in the storage area between bulkheads 2 and 3) three days ago. The paint is not hardening; I can easily scratch it off with my fingernail. The shop is between 55-60 degrees. The paint was still tacky after one day, so I made a little tent with a heater inside and left it running for about 20 hours. It got pretty warm inside the tent. According to the manufacturer the minimum temp for painting Brightsides is 50 degrees. I'm confident in my surface prep. I washed the epoxy with water to remove any blush, sanded it with 80 grit, and vaccummed and wiped it clean with alcohol. Any idea what the problem is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted December 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2016 Here are some pictures. The picture were taken after sanding with 220 grit paper. When I noticed how easy it sanded I tried the fingernail test. The scratch in the center of the second picture was made by my fingernail with only light pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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