JPower210 Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Graham or Alan- would one of you be willing to do a little lesson on finishing off the ends of the hollowback rub strip? Alan showed me really nicely finished ends on a 17 that was there when I was picking up one of my kits. I can't remember what the process was for getting a nice point that laid flat. Thanks! John P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Most hollow back sizes have end pieces available. Additionally, if you're pretty good at working metal you can beat the ends down and shape to suit. Jamestown has hollow back ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Stewart Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 John, I did a quick Rhino model of some 3/4" hollow back to show how Graham taught me to do it. It's straightforward but does require some skill with a grinder or hack saw close to final and finish with grinder. In this case a picture is best. Because you are taking advantage of the end moment provided by the tip that gets cut off you end up with a nice smooth bend with no tool marks or hammer blows on it. You could never get this shape by trying to bend the very tip without lots of filing and polishing afterward. The angle to which you bend the end down will dictate the radius you get on the end of the hollow back. What I have shown gets you kind of an oval shape on the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Hint: When bending metal strips of any kind it is best to do the bending before the holes are drilled. This may not be possible as it may come with holes already drilled. But there is less chance of getting a kink as the holes create a weaker spot that is more prone to bending first, more, or kinking. For drilling holes in hallow back I find it best to drill the clearance hole from the back as the concave surface helps center the hole. Starting a bit on the convex side is harder to keep centered, even if you punch a starter spot. The counter-sink is added at the end. For those with access to a rouge wheel, (jeweler's polishing wheel) it does wonders after the grinding is done. I have found that buffing the screw heads and top of the shank as well help reduce crevice corrosion with stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPower210 Posted April 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Graham's method is probably the easiest although it does leave some waste. If you need to keep the full length of the piece, grind the oval shape first and bang the tip down with a rawhide or other non scaring hammer. Some buffing is usually required for best results. I never buy ready made tips as I think they are too pointed for my taste and its easy to make your own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 I agree on the premade tips and I always just beat the ends over a hunk of 2" pipe in the vice, which puts a nice curve in it. I've tried to shape before bending, but I never seem to get it symmetrical after it's pounded down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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