smccormick Posted July 13, 2017 Report Share Posted July 13, 2017 Nice work on the glassing. It's hard to get the scale on the dingy. 7' maybe. Will the oc20 be on a mooring? It's pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted July 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Thanks smccormick, The " dingy " is just 4.5 ft . There will be a glass top resting on all 3 seats and is going to be used as a coffee table ! At this time being I have no intention to keep the oc on a mooring , she will be trailered back home . My location is 5 minutes away from the slipway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted July 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 Last weekend was busy fabricating the lifting strakes or splash rails . After getting all the measurements of width height and deadrise angle for every 10" of the strake, I transferred these measurement on to an angled aluminium strip , trimmed out the markings and therefore this aluminium strip became a mold (plug) of the strake itself ! All I had to do than is fill the mold with thickened epoxy , separate the cured epoxy strake from the mold and glue them onto the hull ! This way was much more easier to do than I thought As you can notice if photo 1 the aluminium L strip was covered with plastic tape so that the epoxy will not bond to the strip , in fact when cured it came out very easily ( photo 2 ) Hope that this will information will help someone out there because my impressions where that fabricating the strakes on to a modifies deadried hull is one of the hardest things to do !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimE Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 That is a really brilliant idea - having build them from timber! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 What a great idea! You can also just wax the aluminum. No tape wrinkles that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capriosca Posted July 17, 2017 Report Share Posted July 17, 2017 Yes this is very helpful information. Unfortunately, like Tim, we went thru the pain of cutting them from timber. I have a feeling that you will be pressed for finer details of your method by those also facing this task. Great work as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted July 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2017 Hi guys, what do you think about this fairing method to get a smooth perfect finish ? First apply thickened epoxy (407) with a grooved trawler ( pic 1) , than long board sand until it's almost straight ( ie some of the resin grooves had disappeared ) pic2, than repaste thickened epoxy with a straight edge trawler to fill the remaining grooves . I think this method saves a lot of sanding fatigue and also lots of epoxy material too . Basically you're sanding only the upper point of the grooves on most parts and not the whole area to get it leveled !! Any ideas and comments ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted July 18, 2017 Report Share Posted July 18, 2017 This method is well known, but isn't light, nor fast. You'll apply twice as much, maybe considerably more fairing compound as normal methods and you'll spend more time sanding too, because you have to do everything twice. It is good for novices, as it's easier to identify lows and highs, but it adds a thin layer of fairing compound to the hull which ideally is sanded away, except in the low spots. In reality, most just leave a continuous coating of thickened goo all over and bring the lows up to the slightly knocked down highs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smccormick Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 I've considered trying that method too, particularly around the areas where you are blending glass overlaps. Just sanding off peaks in the application should produce much less work and less material usage in that area. Possibly using smaller v-grooves in the field. In the end I was worried about secondary bond strength in the unsanded valleys so I've never tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Lancaster Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Some of the best professional builders I know use a notched trowel. Go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyster Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 One way or the other, you will need to fair that hull, which has some curves on it. The bottom not so much.. Its one thing if you think you can get by with one layer that will create a fair surface. But the notch method saves you a load of work when doing your initial fairing, along with materials. Then when you go back and apply the second layer onto the notch layer and then sand, the notch layer will actually show if you down thru the new layer and tell you how deep you have gone and if you end up with some low or high spots. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 I used the notched trowel method on the bottom and seems to work fine , but lots and lots of sanding !! Decided to go for ' normal ' methods on the sides using a 3ft long aluminium trowel ( ruler) to smooth the fairing compound . One of the mistakes I done on the bottom was building the splash rails before fairing , that made it more difficult for long board sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarbaby Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 The notched trowel method is only used where there is a big hole in the fairing that you need to fill. Never all over the whole boat. It prints through the paint horribly and you will see it forever. You could do it on the bottom, but you really aren't saving yourself any work. There is no shortcut way to get these hulls fair. It takes strong backs and weak minds. Break the project of fairing into sections. Smaller elephants are easier to eat than big ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenm Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Looking really good Lotus! I wish I had such progress to report on. 33 minutes ago, Tarbaby said: The notched trowel method is only used where there is a big hole in the fairing that you need to fill. Never all over the whole boat. It prints through the paint horribly and you will see it forever. You could do it on the bottom, but you really aren't saving yourself any work. There is no shortcut way to get these hulls fair. It takes strong backs and weak minds. Break the project of fairing into sections. Smaller elephants are easier to eat than big ones. I like the tip re breaking into sections. At least if feels like you are getting somewhere when you can see the results in a particular section. I have never faired a boat before, however I have done heaps of epoxy windsurfers, and in recent times, we have been faring them by 'wet' sanding. Mostly to cut down on the terrible dust and stop sandpaper from clogging. Also seems to 'cut' a bit better. I use mini long board with sanding belt for the sandpaper. They last forever. Use the usual 'guide' coat as well to spot the highs/lows. Could this method be on a boat? At this stage of the project, I wouldn't think waterproofing should be of a concern? I.e. a light spray of water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted August 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Sanding and more sanding Lenm I like the idea of wet sanding . I am using 3ft long boards ( one rigid , one flexible or less rigid ) and with wet sanding these are much more easier to push and pull !! Yesterday morning I rolled and tip a coat of clear epoxy to get the side gloss , but again more points to fill and sand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riggs Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 That finish is really starting to look very good sir gonna need sunglasses to check it soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Almost forgot to form 2 flatpads for trim tabs !! Was thinking of 18 x 9 " bennett hydraulic trimtabs and maybe will go for the auto tab control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted August 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 First layer of epoxy primer sprayed ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riggs Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 That's looking very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 All that fairing definitely paid off! Primer never look so beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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