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Spray dodger


Jim Stumpf
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Happy new year,

 

Thought I would check in, it has been awhile since I launched my CS 17 and haven't had much to add to the conversation. But I have started a spray Dodger and wanted to share my thought process and progress. The CS  is pretty wet to windward especially in a chop. I sail on Lake Erie and find myself wet most outings, I am surprised at the lack of discussion on spray dodgers.

 

I want something small, easy to see over, add spray protection but not necessarily a cuddy type cover. I will add a camper that can attach to the dodger at a later date. After searching the web I think something like the Norse Boat uses fits my needs better than some of the larger covers that I have seen used for the Everglades challenge on CS or the front camper/ cover on the Seapearl. I do not want a forward riding passenger to be in battle for prime real estate with the new dodger. I toyed with mock ups of bimini type hardware and folding harps and have decided to keep this portion of the cover as simple as possible.

 

Here is where I am so far  

 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106668203767680037177/CoresoundSpray?authuser=0&feat=directlink

 

 

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Jim, that is a nice cover. I do have a concern....Do you think that your tent pole will be tough enough? My experience is that when falling against those they splinter at the connections pretty easily, especially when they are that short and captive. I think in the active area you are putting this a tougher solution will be more appropriate, but I could be wrong. Does the Norseboat cover have captive ends like that? Maybe you could laminate a wooden one that would be tougher and more in keeping with the looks of your boat.

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Thanks for the input Steve, very valid points. Seems that I am committed at this point to at least try it out. I did go back and look at a closeup of the Norse and the forward section is actually tube and bimini fittings, there is a hoop in the camper  top (further aft)  that is a fiberglass sail batten or similar that is only attached to the canvas in batten pockets at either side. I should have asked yesterday before I glued it up. I think that the thought during design was to use the fiberglass hoop to get more of a dome shape, because the forward coaming is so wide building a folding frame that will lay over the coaming  creates more of a rectangle whose corners are hard to see over. We thought about a more rigid hoop but opted for the fiberglass for ease of storage since it will not lay down on the foredeck. Thinking about it now, picking fiberglass splinters out of my hide does not seem like a good trade off.   :D

 

Thanks again for your insights.

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If it breaks, I think you could make up a form and laminate some wood into an arc that wood be very strong. I like the attachment points you made, but a  fabric hinge just above the insert would give it some protection and allow you to lay it forward. Don't tell anyone, but I own a Sea Ray powerboat (shhhh!) and the bimini has short elastic straps that keep it very taught but that allow it to get jarred. It's a pretty good setup. If I had any way to get into my storage shed I'd take a picture, but it will have to wait until spring. 

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Jim, looking at the radius of your poles I don't think you'll ever suffer a breakage. Whilst experimenting with camping/dodger setups i tried using fiberglass tent pole, I deliberately bent some to failure, they went far past the curvature you have.

 

I eventually settled on  a dodger, using 1/2'' sch 40 pvc bent using a heat gun around a mandrel ( coffee can ). The pvc was only meant to serve as a template for making Aluminum hoops  but after assembling using Bimini fitting they seemed sturdy enough and have been in use for a couple of years and weathered some pretty nasty storms.

 

Your version is more suitable for sailing though, mine more for sleep aboard,post-2180-0-47768900-1451588110_thumb.jpgpost-2180-0-68474700-1451588193_thumb.jpg

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Thanks makenmend,  

The thought of using the mizzen sprit for a boom tent never occurred to me cool idea.

 

I think Steve's bigger concern was not the radius but the stress point that could be caused where the pole leaves the through deck sleeve. a good push fore or aft may cause the pole to shear at exit point.

 

Thanks Jim

 

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Great thread.  

 

I am in the planning stages for the Dodger/tent attachment and am leaning towards the Sailrite kit for the frame.  Their's is a three piece stainless frame that can be made to the beam and height needed.  I noticed that the crew member complains a tad when going to windward in a chop due to the spray.  I find the spray refreshing...crew wins.  My plan is to add a zipper or snaps to the trailing edge to add enough of a tailpiece for a proper camping tent.  

 

Can't wait to see the finished product(s).  

 

David

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I added a zipper to enclose completely, with long enough flaps to reach and seal the bottom with fishing weights sewn in the hem to keep in place. Works well but lacks ventilation. A camp fan works but thinking on Velcro mosquito mesh netting, maybe challenge my sewing skills and add front facing window plus net.

Only problem I had was water build up in the boat, hence that boom tent lash up that made huge difference, except ease of access.

 

MM

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Jim regarding breakage from fore/aft stress as Steve W points out, with after tension straps and the tension from the fwd attachment, again I don't think you'll have a problem. this is just being held with mashing tape very sturdy.

 

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In my case, the addition of the after canvas meant no straps were required, with lashing hooks fixed around the combing and bungee cord passed through the hem my dodger can be erected/ folded in seconds. 

 

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My requirements were full sit up headroom ( I"m only 5'6'' ) to dress, potty privacy, even boil water when raining ect.

 

The sail will pass across no problem, although I haven't tried to sail with it up yet (Texas is mostly dry )

 

 

 

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My admittedly awful looking dodger is very useful for sailing with a crew on long, wet passages. It keeps them out of most of the spray when things start getting sporty and allows the to sleep without being continually dowsed by cold water. It also helps when sailing solo to keep water out of the boat on those splashy upwind legs. 

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Hey Gary,

 

I am still working on it, I have decided to eliminate the fiberglass rod and replace it with a folding bimini type set up. The shape will stay the lower profile more dome shape  as in my mock up but the hardware will be different. Just ordered the parts today. Will be sure to post progress when I get back to it. I decided to change the hardware as I was having trouble getting the forward end to fill out,  I will add a more horizontal harp forward attached to the more vertical bow as in the original.  I also hope to achieve a more structural framework to attach my camper top to and lastly think that hinging and folding the unit forward will facility foredeck access.

 

On another refit front: I have the lazaret/aft deck on my boat with the deck mounted storage hatch. Today I glued up a shelf to bridge the cockpit seats that matches the thwart and fab'd and installed a lower shelf to hold my gascan(s). My current can rattles around in the bilge getting secured to any convenient fixed object, I also think that it containments the bilge water from time to time reacting with the floor paint... so it will have a proper home from now on. Picture tomorrow. 

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

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Removed the fiberglass pole pockets, made new pedestals to cover the damage, and bent up some 1/2" emt with duckworks fittings and this is what I came up with. I think I will add a quick release pin to the fore/aft stretcher so that the bow can fold forward. Now to dry fit some pattern fabric to the assembly.
 
Thanks,
 
Jim

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Thanks Steve, Not sure about windows, the intention was to make it low enough for good visibility. I think that I will put zippered vents in for ventilation when camping on board. Still having issues with the covering because of the tight radius of the bow and the width of the cockpit forward. The fabric wants to pull down and create a flat above the coaming that will certainly collect water. Trying to decide if a more horizontal batten running parallel with the coaming would help. I do not want to widen the main bow to conform to the shape of the coaming. Getting closer but back to the drawing board, good thing winter is so long here in NE Ohio :D .

 

Jim

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Hey Steve,

 

I have been using some old sheets but am finding that they stretch too much for patterns. Thanks for the plastic sheet tip, I have seen it used at sailrite but have not tried it yet, good thought. Just used a plywood form for the bend and then finished with a conduit bender for the kicks.

 

Thanks,

 

Jim

 

 

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Not a lot of progress this weekend. After a couple of revisions I came up with what I hope will be a workable pattern. I used double sided tape to hold plastic to coaming which worked much better than spring clamps. The snaps will actually be on the deck. I will be using these snaps. http://www.sailrite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=1753812&c=603010&h=dc70a405ba7c25813d7a

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