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Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build


smccormick
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Thanks guys,

 

Lenm,

 

The boards are sepele, they're part of the sub structure of the deck, a slight deviation from the plans and will be covered over.  .  For whatever reason, my planking had pulled the shear clamp out about .125" between the frames in the cockpit so I glued some 2 x 3 stock against the clamp to straighten it. I didn't want the 2 x 3's to remain in the finished boat so I needed to transfer that load to the covering board and wasn't confident that the .375" ply would be up for the job.

 

Any epoxy fairing filler can go directly onto properly prepared/ground glass work.  The grinding part is why I like to trowel on filler while the glass is still green stage.   I use a combination of prepared fillers and shop made fillers.  With a cost around one third, a majority of work uses shop made.  This project uses all alexseal products.

 

All the white surfaces and brownish spots you see in the preprimed photos above are fillers.  The darker areas of the white fields is the glass showing through the filler, so it's a skim coat in many areas.  But my goal is to achieve a fair surface without sanding any long fibers of the glass.

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Fairing the high build primer complete, just a few edges to touch.  Need to spot fill a a couple of places, but not much.  This is a huge step forward for me.  Will be moving on to the deck build and tumble home bumpers next.  Yay, something new.2014_0720_014118_009.thumb.JPG.1101afc6116f66d7ba7b083ee9f9589b.JPG

 

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Here's a snicker for you.  When I hear of guys using house paint and kills primer on their builds, I admit to cringing more than a little.  Then I swept up the sanding dust from the high build fairing effort and realize that I have a $50 bill sitting in the dust pan.  All of a sudden, kills sounds like a pretty good idea.

 

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Here's a snicker for you.  When I hear of guys using house paint and kills primer on their builds, I admit to cringing more than a little.  Then I swept up the sanding dust from the high build fairing effort and realize that I have a $50 bill sitting in the dust pan.  All of a sudden, kills sounds like a pretty good idea

 

Sure nuff folks laugh all the time when I tell them that I use it all the time, since the mid 1980s over epoxy glassed hulls as my main go to primer. You can always go back with a coat of quality primer slated for your topcoat paints after you have faired and sanded properly the Kilz.  15 bucks a gallon and simple recoating multiple coats after each one has cured over  works like a charm. Just let the multiple coats cure properly before sanding and it sands as slick as a skinned onion.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I don't know how I talk myself into buying fast cure hardener every fall, "because the cold weather is coming and I'll need it".   I just hate fast cure.  It's low 50's out and it still kicks in the blink of an eye in the cup.  Yes, a very small amount.  Before I can get a few joints located and sequentially glued, I have a forest fire going in the cup.

 

Note to self; Don't buy any more fast cure hardener!  You don't need it.

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On 3/23/2018 at 1:42 AM, Alan Stewart said:

What do you have planned for draining the cockpit? I see they are conspicuously absent!

 

 

 

Yeah, that's on the to do list.  I just need to allocate a couple days of fretting time before I make that cut.  It's a problem I have when building something , I need plenty of time to overthink it.  Then I need more.

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