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I've spent more time working the egg crating on this build than anything else.  Couple of items that I could have done differently to speed this along for those of you who are considering a build of this sort and for my future reference.

 

  • Clean your glue joints up nice and neat and tight.  I thought I did a decent job but it has caused some extra time.  Glue seeps between the seams of the planking in the first layer when you add the second, sounds obvious right?  Not at the time of doing battle, never even thought about it.
  • Add the stiffeners/bearers whatever you call them at the tops of the stringers and frames before assembling them.
  • Glass the stringers and frames before assembling onto the jig.
  • Use peel ply on every glassed surface, not just the ones you think you'll be bonding to.  Much better for finishing and secondary bonds
  • If you can't glass it, hot coat it before you start planking.
  • Don't allow surface intersections that create a thin deep slot to remain.  Fill them.   I did fill beside the keel but left the forward bottom planking and stringer intersection creating a difficult area to work.
  • Cockpit shear clamp needs to be more robust
  • Don't be in such a rush to have a chemical bond on the outside glassing.  Would be better to do one strip, cure, then bevel the edge to accept the next sheet so it can all be ground flat.  Ease fairing immensely and reduce the amount of fairing materials used and time and labor.

I did do a couple things right

  • Fill beside the keel.  Worked out very nice.
  • Lifting strakes were a pita, but I like what they provide.
  • Filler sheet at the stem to fair the bottom planking to the topsides planking worked nicely
  • Fairing all outside corners to a sharp edge.
  • Sand, sand and sand some more.  The joy of being done will be forever diminished by the sight of an obvious blemish that could have easily been removed.
  • I still like double diagonal planking.

I'll have more as I think about this.

 

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On 5/28/2017 at 5:45 AM, lenm said:

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Re shear clamp comment, how would you do it different next time?

 

I had a bit (.125 +/-) of waviness in the planking at the shear clamp along the cockpit that was created by the planking pulling (tumble home) on the shear clamp.  Possible causes may be my material selection or the span.  I let Alan know what I found and sent photos.  I'm sure they have a fix in place already.

 

Below is my preferred solution.  Incorporate the covering board and the clamp in one piece.  This has it's own perils, but fairly minor.

 

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Compartments faired and primed.  Sanding primer and adding wire chases and plumbing runs.

 

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Quick (like about 5 minutes and people make fun of my scrap pile) mould and a part to mount the backup pump onto.

 

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All wire ways and plumbing passages glued into place, final coat of high build in compartments.  Getting close to putting the sole down; sand primer, shoot top coat, install flotation, install tanks and plumb them.

 

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Met Graham, Alan and the whole (most of) B&B crew at the Mystic wooden boat show yesterday.  Wife and I had a pleasant chat with Graham, Alan was busy chasing around 12 or so builders constructing 6 boats during the show.  Everyone was diligently spreading goo and sticking parts to their soon to be boats.  

 

Checked back at the close of business (for the day, 2 more to go) to see how far they got.  Graham was happy with the progress.  Boats where looking like boats.  

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Scott, I live in Roseville CA. I am thinking of doing this build. I work in Sacramento. I would really like to come by and see it and get your advice on building one. Please let me know if that would be possible. I can email you to set up a meeting.

thanks,

chris

 

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Installing flotation foam.  One more thing that should only take a couple hours but somehow takes 2 days.

 

The B and B guys recommend rigid foam glued to the bottom of the sole,  but with all the piping below there was just no way to make that work.  I really struggled with leaving it out entirely.  Ended up pouring obviously, but left channels connecting the limbers to maybe allow drainage.

 

If something happens do I want the boat back?  Would I rather have it go to the bottom?  I know all the positions on floating boat easier to see, blah, blah.  

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Steve- WOW! Your boat looks awesome.  I think I might get a stomach ache trying to figure out want all of those conduits are for.  Would love to know what you are planning.  Keep the pics coming. Enjoy!

Cheers,

Ken

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17 hours ago, ChrisL said:

Scott, I live in Roseville CA. I am thinking of doing this build. I work in Sacramento. I would really like to come by and see it and get your advice on building one. Please let me know if that would be possible. I can email you to set up a meeting.

thanks,

chris

 

 

Chris,

 

Just pm'd you about visiting the build.

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Thanks Kennneee,

 

They are going every which way.  I need to do an as built drawing for future reference.  Meant to do it before I covered everything.  

 

Excluding tank fill/vent plumbing, everything else that passes through the foamed areas will be housed in a conduit.  Keeps the water out and if I have to add or change a system, the process is easy.

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Argh, last couple of days that's been about right.  But usually I do my thinking when I'm suppose to be working on it.  I can turn a five minute job into 3 days with all my obsessive need for perfection.  I never achieve it, just aim for it.

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Superb!

I'm looking at the rib bands and speculating how you are going to finish the inner top sides.

Personally, I think either covering them or leaving exposed looks good.

 

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Lenm,

 

I've seen it both ways.  Smooth is the look I want, so I'll be installing ceilings.  It's the last large scale fairing project and honestly, I'm not looking forward to it.  

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