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The sheer stringer, how much is to much


woodman

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One of the ways to get more sheer is to flare the gunwales. This should be part of the design, not an addition later, I suppose. I use about 15 degrees for my boats by eye.

Another is to use wider stock and carve the sheer in, or glue pieces above the gunwales on the ends (or lash them), and carve the curve into them.

On open boats, I've pre-bent some sheer into the gunwales, using the soak, weight, and wait, or steam and towels methods.

By the by, I still consider these 5/8 x 1-1/2" gunwales tiny. I think the gunwales on the last kayak I made are 7/8 x 3", or somewhere around there. Of course they are riddled with holes...

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It seems that there would be some 'spring-back' from the gunwales, and also any of the stringers, considering they are bowed some during assembly to fit the frames. But, being the largest, the gunwales would be most likely to spring back. I think the flared sheer  of most SOF designs keep the spring-back to a minimum though. In fact, the design probably takes the tension of the gunwales and stringers into consideration.  On the boat I am currently working on I twisted the gunwales into a 'tumblehome' in the cockpit area and then back to the designed flare at the ends. The extra tension on the gunwales did take a lot of the rocker out of the hull. I suspect that a tight skin might also suck a little bit of rocker out as well. Hmmm...I think I can live with no rocker but a hogged hull - not so much.

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The angle if the gunwale is the key.  I spent a lot of time figuring out how to keep my boats from hogging and now I spend a lot of time on the computer fine tuning the design before I ever draw the first frame.  I see a lot of people 'pre-bending' gunwales on on other forums to keep the boat in the shape designed. One of my goals has always been to keep it simple and for you to be able to build a boat and it be the proper shape without jumping through hoops to make it work. 

 

There is a lot you don't see that goes into the plans. I hope I make it look simple, but it is not.  Most good designers know the tricks but it is obvious some other that sell plans do not and I am going to give away all the tricks that make my boats go together correctly and stay that way. ;)

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When you start going with the really up swept bow and stern on these greenland style kayaks that is where i see it more prevelant.....I know what Jeff is saying, when you start in the center of the boat and lay the sheer into place it naturally flowes into place toward each end without forcing anything,on his boats.....

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This is my last, and favorite, personal West Greenland style kayak. I finally got all the stuff dialed on this one, except I always wanted one of those crazy Cadillac style stern stem fins... I still have the story stick, so who knows?

You can see how deep the gunwale is, and also how a little bit of sheer is carved in the end. Also, the stem board contributes to the upsweep, too. Note that the stem board is continuing the upsweep of the gunwales, here. I would guess the stem piece on a fuselage boat could do the same.

Also, there ain't much you can harass a pair of 1x3s (actual) into doing without a strongback. You just recommend a place he might like to be, and build around. All natural flow. ;)

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  • 5 months later...

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