Jump to content

Masts ready for installation of tracks any input and direction


Recommended Posts

CS 20 104 is on the ways, ready to put sail tracks on the masts.  They are primed and ready, need input.  Hardware placement on the deck, provide instruction and advice.  I think I got it but I always measure three times, ask advice, measure two more times, look up for support, pray and drill.  We are at the point of final installation.  My bride says I am scared to commit and finish, but it is my BABY and the biggest project and example to my kids of what you can do and finish and use and be proud of and SMILE about for the rest of your life. You who have done, I am amazed and I will join you soon.  ALL advice appreciated.  I will be asking lots of questions about hardware mounting in the next few weeks.  And thanks again for all the web site input and encouragement ya'll provide to each other and me.

 

THNX

 

Jim A

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Jim,

For every fitting attached to deck or spar -- always use bedding compound. Although it increases strength, and the strength may be enough without it, but WITHOUT IT, THERE WILL BE WATER PENETRATION! I learned the hard way. I was in a hurry, near the end of construction, and impatient to get her on the water -- so I skipped the bedding on fittings that I thought wouldn't be immersed in water -- but there was rain water penetration and rot! As a result I have to make a new bow sprit and tabernacle on my PocketShip within less than 5 years. A real bummer. The wood was Douglas Fir -- White Oak may have lasted a little longer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3M 4200 is a good way to go for bedding deck hardware, mostly because it never completely hardens. It stays rubbery while sticking like the Dickens. That way, when you need to rebed the hardware in 15 years--or whenever--you can do it without taking off layers of fiberglass/paint/whatever.

 

The other thing for deck hardware is to drill oversized holes and fill them with thickened epoxy. After they dry, sand them flush and drill new holes the right size. It's a lot of bleedin' work, but between that and the adhesive sealant you bed the hardware with, no water's getting in.

 

Of course, all my experience has been with fiberglass boats with cored decks...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the transition pieces provided by Graham, Teflon I think.  I have to thin them some and trim to fit the way I built my mast stops at the transitions between the mast pieces.  I am wondering if I trim and fit then glue it all down with 5200 or 4200 and let set up before I rivet in place will that help?  I kinda like to fit and glue and then anchor, it seems to make sense to me but I have not got a clue on this item.  HELP

 

 

THNX, Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3M-5200 is more an adhesive than a sealant. 3M-4000 has a bit less tack and dries more pliable, but is much the same formulation as 5200. With hardware bedding on wood, I use 3M-101 which is a polysulfide, instead of the polyurethane of the 4000 and 5000 series adhesive/sealants they offer. It's tack is much less aggressive and it's far more pliable too.

 

I'll second the bonded fastener holes. This saves the wood, as moisture can't get past a failed bedding line to get at it. As to rivets and using something under them, I don't bother, simply using stainless rivets (including shank) on the aluminum spars. All of the mast manufactures (Dwyer, Hall, etc.) do the same thing and I've seen 30 year old sticks with the original mast tangs and hardware still attached and working fine. Yeah, they're may be some pitting and corrosion, but after 3 decades, this should be a given, with or without an isolator between the dissimilar metals.

 

I'm not sure what Graham uses for the "transition" pieces, but if it's Teflon, good luck getting anything to bond well to it. With this material, as well as HDPE, UHMPE, etc. the best you can hope for is a modest seal, rather than an actual bond. These plastics need to be welded or hard fastened (through bolts), if you expect them to stay put under load.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3M-5200 is more an adhesive than a sealant. 3M-4000 has a bit less tack and dries more pliable, but is much the same formulation as 5200. With hardware bedding on wood, I use 3M-101 which is a polysulfide, instead of the polyurethane of the 4000 and 5000 series adhesive/sealants they offer. It's tack is much less aggressive and it's far more pliable too.

Exactly what I will be doing on Üinen.  I will likely choose BoatLife LifeCaulk instead.  It is a polysulfide also and very similar to 3M 101 and more easily available up here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I watched Alan build the CS15 for a day and ended using what he used on deck hardware where possible......butyl rubber, and otherwise LifeCaulk. I liked the butyl as Alan did. It seems to provide a very good seal and remains a little pliable. It is easy to work with as long as the particular screw you are using has enought heft as you need to actually physically squeeze the stuff out of the way as you tighten down the hardware. It is easy to clean. If it is a small screw it is better to use lifecaulk instead of by til rubber.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.