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CS 17 Mizzen Sheet Rigging


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I know this has been covered before but I can not seem to find it by searching.

 

I have attached the only diagram I have related to what I want to do in re-rigging the  'Lively' mizzen.  It is a lousy image but hopefully.  I think Brent was the first to mention on this forum a long time ago.

 

I am not sure if the Harken hardware is appropriate but had noted it on the paper.

 

I am looking for specific block sizes and names so I can order (not sure if Graham carries these items). I thought there were photos of someones boat but again I cannot find any.

 

I would appreciate any help I can get.

 

thanks,

 

dale

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I used the plans for rigging mine. However, I've always hated the way the main sheets come across the thwart seat, and cleat on the coaming. Having been in several CS17's with with above described rig

This is the mizzen sheet rig I prefer.  The blocks should be of non swivel type to prevent twisting of the sheet.  A simple U strap to the rope traveler is adequate.  The down led sheet does not foul

I'll attach a few pics of my clew end reefing lines. The main reefing line starts as a loop around the boom goes up to and is fed through a snapshackle at the reef point then goes down to a block at

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I'll attach a few pics of mine that might help. The only thing I couldn't find was a photo showing the fairlead on the underside of the sprit boom about half way along which just prevents the sheet from sagging too much and catching on things.

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Cheers

Peter HK

 

 

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Thanks everybody.

 

Don, how does you system work when the mast is moving with the sail or rotating?  It seems you would have difficulty pulling if running with the sail 90 degrees to the boat.

 

Peter or anybody else remember what size blocks you are using. 

 

thanks,

 

dale

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Peter, how well does this system work? Does the sheet run smoothly through the turns? Would you do this again, if you had a choice? 

As everyone has said it is simply personal preference. I like having the sheet to hand in front of me and near the mainsheet so everything can be adjusted  without having to move around the boat.

I don't have oars (only a paddle) so the loss of rowing seat is no concern to me. I have an outboard on a bracket to use if I have to (and the bracket keeps the sheet from catching on the motor) but mostly sail everywhere.

The only disadvantage with this system is there is a little more friction which means in very light conditions (like 1-2 knots) the mizzen boom won't ease out as well as the main and needs a push.

As to type of block they are Ronstan ball bearing blocks suitable for up to 8mm line

http://www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/range.asp?RnID=004a

 

Cheers

Peter HK

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I'm going with Ronstan Orbit 30's, so we're on the same page. I'm going to attach them with lashings. I think this will allow me to mess around with different alternatives. I, too, prefer to have the sheets in front of me. But I have no experience with them placed behind me. Maybe it's not a big deal. Can't wait to experiment.

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This is the basic mizzen system that I like because I like to have all the sheets always available ahead of me and be able to trim and cleat from any position in the boat for both helmsman and crew.  Its a sailboat first for me and rowing is secondary.  I never row if there is any wind.  The mid sprit fairlead is just section of PVC pipe shaped to suit.  The block on the mas should be in line with the sprit to avoid pulling down on the sprit.

 

Probably should rethink a headbanger on the sprit since the lead would be unfair to the helm on one tack or the other  and it also pulls down on the sprit, which should be avoided.  Have noticed no problem with trimming the sheet when the mizzen mast is rotated for a run. 

 

I had the sheeting system shown on the plans on LOON and found it much inferior to this one.  I much dislike clam cleats on running sheets and having them behind me in a small boat where control often need to be immediate is important to me.  Once nearly capsized because the crew was pushing their body back against the windward mainsheet cleat and I could not release it.  This plan is similar to what I used on various racing boats for many years and has saved my cookies many times.  Graham may not agree and we agree to disagree on this issue,

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I need to protect for rowing, since my primary lake has quirky boat launching fees. Namely, non-motorized boats may launch for $5/year. Since I'm out of state (just across the border), it would cost me $400/year. It is still $400, even for an electric motor. I will not, therefore, be using any sort of motor on that lake! Other than that, it's a lovely lake.

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I used the plans for rigging mine. However, I've always hated the way the main sheets come across the thwart seat, and cleat on the coaming. Having been in several CS17's with with above described rigs, they are much better. When ever I have the boat full of kids, they quite often wind up accidentally sitting on mainsheets when tacking, and occasionally adults do it as well (kids learn faster not to).

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I'm not sure how I would apply this to the mainsheet system

I think the comments re the main are for the original sheeting system which in my plans (circa 2006) show the sheet going through a block near the forward edge of the thwart and then via a fairlead to a clamcleat on the coaming. It is easy to sit on and not so easy to use especially when hiking.

Many of us use something like these http://www.ronstan.com.au/marine5/product.asp?prodno=RF67 which work very well.

To keep the thwart free for rowing just place them wide enough so you can sit between them.

As you said earlier you can fit an RF5 on the mizzen mast instead of an RF67 on the thwart.

Cheers

Peter HK

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