Steve W Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Pete, you have provided great information for future builders including myself. I wish I had three hours a day. If I remember from watching Alan's video from the CS15, the tabernacle gets mounted shimmed a bit to allow the tipped back mast to miss the mizzen. Right? I'm hoping to use the slope backed main mast hung from the upright mizzen mast as a ridge pole for a gunk-hole tent. I also think my plans (drawings) show the whole tabernacle glassed, but maybe I'm wrong. Finally, I wonder if you just poured some magic epoxy/silica/graphite (any ideas others) combo into the washer space if that would suffice. It's not like it is a high wear area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Steve,... Yes, there is a 2 degree wedge on the back side of the tabernacle where it meets the bulkhead. As for glassing the tabernacle -- I'll ask Alan about filleting and tape glassing it to the bulkhead, as well as glassing the entire outside surface. But I doubt that full glassing is needed. I'll check that drawing again. I did glass the inner and outer cheeks around the top bolt hole to prevent any possible splitting of the cheek pieces. I haven't filled in the 1.5" washer hole. I'm keeping it open so that I can insert a 1/16th Teflon washer when I find one. On the other hand there will be little rotation ware, mostly it'll simply be a pressure force rather than a sliding one. We'll see. I hadn't thought of using the mast as a ridge pole for a tent. I had in mind a tent over the sprit boom. But a tent over a lowered mast could be a better idea. Question: Do you think lowering the mainmast fully rigged with sprit boom and furled sail will be much of a problem? I like the idea of a simple tent, but have struggled with design concepts that will keep the tent's lower edges far enough out to keep out rain, etc. What do you think of this kind of setup for "outriggers"? Maybe the tent flaps could be designed so that their lines could be moved to a lower point on the outrigger to provide greater privacy and/or protection from sun or wind. And couldn't the tent have battens across its top to give it an arched profile and more headroom near the sheers? I suppose there are numerous possibilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Steve. My understanding is that you only need to just glass on either side of the tabernacle at the top. You don't have to wrap it around the front, top, and back. This will prevent possible splitting with the grain at the pivot point. Pour straight epoxy into the hole where the pin will be. Yes, shim the tabernacle as you said. When you bond the tabernacle in, be sure to build up enough "poxy" glue to fill the void next to the shim. Why not use the mizzen sprit as a ridge pole? Leave the main mast standing. Or do I misunderstand what you're trying to do? Oops, I see Pete "beat me to it". Those outriggers seem like a cool idea. I'm hoping to be able to lower my fully rigged masts to pass under bridges, but think it will be much easier for you to use the sprit as suggested. Will you have a boom gallows to lower your sprit on as well as to lower your mast? Gallows (gallow?) on my CS-20 Mk-3. I also have them (it?) on my new Summer Breeze. Added note, I looked up the "gallows" versus "gallow" question. It's officially "gallows". Isn't English an interesting language? Why is gallows plural? And how about glasses, pants (pantaloons), and I'm sure other singular appearing items? Yeah, I know. Two lenses in the glasses, two legs in the pants, and, I suppose, tho poles in the gallows. Then "hand" should be "hands" because they have five fingers---well, in case of Stumpy, four and a half..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meester Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 Hi Pete, The outriggers look nice, and they would make a well-ventilated tent. What about mosquitoes, though? Would you sew in a mesh panel to fill the gap? You could simplify by allowing the cloth to overlap and drape down the outside the gunnel, perhaps attaching at the rub rail. At anchor, your bow will face into the breeze, so a mesh window and opening flaps there would be good. Also at the stern I guess, for flow-through. I'm also mulling over tent designs and looking for info. Here's some that I have found. The BRS15 page on the B&B site has a few pictures of a boomless boom tent built on hoops. Here's a couple of options, a straight A-frame and one with the roof sort of spread out by attachments on the shrouds and a wide boom crutch. http://www.wayfarer-international.org/WIT/cruise.daysail/cruisetips/Phillips05.htm I like the broad roof and vertical-ish walls to make it possible to sit inside on the bench seats, and I'm thinking that 2 or 3 x 5 ft fiberglass tent poles placed crosswise to the tent ridgeline might do the trick. That said, tent making is a long ways off for me. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted January 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hi Meester,... Surely, anti-mesqueito measures are a concern. On the Potomac and Chesapeake, I've mostly relied on "OFF" type repellant. Smelly, and often doesn't work. My main concern with a tent is that it should be fairly easy for just one person to deploy / strike it. And stowage -- battens, outriggers and all. More photos of recent progress ... Tabernacle dry fitted to Blk1 with mast in its hinge: By the way, the garage & work shop was my first retirement project in 2001. Next showing the outside mast foot details ... And the inside bolt and washer arrangement ... Next I'll start on prepping the bunk hatch rings for installation on the bunk supports. Then walking around inside the boat will be a little more steady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 More little jobs. Sometimes I think I'm unconsciously delaying the big jobs out of trepidation. But the little ones add some charm or convenience. On my PocketShip "Tattoo," I had unhappy experiences with two failures of its tabernacle. I know that the Core Sound structure is very different and much safer -- but I still have a small worry. For the 2 degree wedge I used a spare piece of White Pine instead of a harder wood. It was easier to make that wide rip on the softer pine. Only after glueing on the wedge did I remember that it was a cheap pine cleat that failed on PocketShip -- and not the glue joint. So, I wanted belt and "suspenders" holding "Chessie's" tabernacle to Blk#1. That's now done with a 5/16" SS carriage bolt thru a 3/4" Yellow Pine doubler. From the cabin it looks some kind of decorative molding. It weighs just a little over one pound. Next I wanted a "one-handed" way to tighten or loosen the rudder pivot without a permanent epoxy solution. So, I trimmed the bolt's hex-head down to a rectangle and was going to make a wooden washer-wrench to hold the bolt fast when tightening the nut on the other side. I was going to go with just a plain circular washer. But then why not something like B & B's logo. Here's the result. Now, I promise! Next will be prepping the bunks, their hatches & hatch rings, and the bunk supports. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 I understand Pete, I stood around 2 days just puttering around when it came time to deck the cockpit and bunk tops! Carol and I definitely tested our tabernacle last month, no problems noted! Southern Express has a vertical oak doubler on the aft side of bulkhead #1 with a bronze wear plate for the wingnut to ride against. The tabernacle is taped to the forward side of bulkhead #1. Then the decking is taped to the bulkhead, tabernacle, and deck. It is beastly strong, and we proved it! I made the shim out of just something laying around the shop, it doesn't see any load atal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Pete. I like all your little "touches" to personalize your boat. I do have one question. Why the necessity to "tighten or loosen the rudder pivot". The rudder blade is intended to pivot freely and is held in position with the up-haul or down-haul lines. I use a regular hex-head bolt with a lock nut on the other side, with washers on either side. Tighten it to where the blade rotates freely, but there is no extra "play". Looking forward to your next innovations as you move forward with your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Chick,... My rudder cheeks turned out not to be very parallel. Just like a convenient adjustment. Jay,... I'm thinking of not gluing down the cockpit deck and footwell sole until after the turnover and finishing the bottom. I will FIX them with a few temporary drywall screws. Wouldn't it make installing the bailers easier? What's your opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 Pete. Leaving the sole out to add bailers sounds good to me. Why didn't I think of that. I did it the hard way on my CS-20 Mk-2. And will on my current build as the floor is already in. It wasn't all that hard, but your way would be more convenient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 What sort or size bailers are people fitting? I assume we are talking about the Anderson style venturi bailer? How to open and close it while underway could be an interesting design challenge. Easy in a dinghy with no cockpit sole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Drew, We use the Anderson New Large bailer. Anderson was bought out by Ronstan so you will not have any problem getting the same bailer as we use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Thanks Graham. Loving your design - the lines are already looking nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Not much progress here. Spent the day pushing a snow blower thru drifts of damp snow. Had to do it twice! Spent yesterday thawing out ice in the snow blower's fuel system and then purging the water. I hate ethenal! Tomorrow may be a better day. Drew, do you have this kind of weather in July? Here is a photo taken this afternoon of my garage and boatbuilding shop. In the foreground is the "table for two" where the Misses and I have our evening meals. I've been thinking of raising / lowering the mainmast "solo." The problem I see is some way to hold the mast in the up position while going below to make fast the bolt (at the mast's foot) on the aft side of Blk#1. Is there a standard simple way to take care of this problem? Maybe some kind of gate clamping the mast foot to the tabernacle? Maybe a "pin" put thru the tabernacle AND the mast (an inch or so above its foot)? Or a wooden brace (of just the right length) that could be jammed between the foot and under the foredeck near the stem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Hi Pete, its summer here on the other side of the world, temps in high 20's Celsius. My son in Manhattan sent me photos of empty streets and people skiing in the street in NYC. Regarding the mast, you could use the sail halyard to hold it up temporarily by having a ring bolt somewhere in the forepeak, or you could have slightly larger cheeks on top of the tabernacle so as to put a pin through in front of the mast. Personally, I wouldn't be putting more holes through the mast as every hole, especially at a strain point, is a potential failure point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Why not install the bolt permanently on the bulkhead facing forward and secure the mast with a nut on the forward side of the joint? Then when you swing the mast up, the bolt will go through a hole in the mast and you can put a nut on from the outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 I agree with Ken. That's what i did on My CS-20 Mk-2, and will do on Summer Breeze. You can easily stand in the hatch, hold the mast with one hand, and reach down with the other to put on the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted January 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Thanks Drew, Ken & Chick,... Probably that's what I'll do also -- it seems like such a simple and sensible solution. However I've already made the hole thru Blk#1 (& the tabernacle) oblong -- but at this point it would be easy to fix that. And, I'd have to make oblong the hole on the aft side of the mast and redesign the compression block. Considering all that, I'll also think about Drew's suggestion of a pin in front of the mast thru the tabernacle cheeks (extended). I just tried a design sketch of that concept and that made me think of an even easier solution: How 'bout on the port side of the tabernacle just above the mast's foot, make fast (to a small pad-eye?) a small line (say 3/16 th) and a small cleet on the starboard side (I'm right-handed). Then, with the mast in position, just bring that line TIGHTLY across the mast foot (just above the bolt head) and belay it to the cleet. It could be left in place -- or, if occasion called for later use of the cleat, it could easily be undone. Perhaps even an anchor or docking cleat could serve that purpose -- depending on their location. Which reminds me, has anyone seen from B & B a deck plan for all the deck hardware? Or, has that been the builders' responsibility? Interesting how multiple ideas can influence problem and design solutions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 I'm confused Chick, the stud was attached to the mast and entered into the cabin and you reached down inside the hatch, or the stud was on the forward bulkhead, piecing the mast and you reached over to put the nut on the stud sticking into the anchor locker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Sorry, stud was on the forward bulkhead, piecing the mast and you reached over to put the nut on the stud sticking into the anchor locker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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