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Pete McCrary

Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

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Attention: NEWS ABOUT "Chessie" - -

 

For an overnight or two, extra water is needed for cooking, washing, etc.  So, with shelf-space available on the forward locker's top, I fabricated a bed (and hold-down strap) for a standard 2.5 gal water tank with its spigot conveniently over the edge of the locker.

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As a solo sailor I often wish for a helmsman to steady Chessie's course into the wind while I  raise/lower sails, anchor, etc.. So, I purchased a Raymarine "Tiller Pilot."  Here's the setup:

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Not shown is its stowed position which is along the side of the starboard cockpit coaming with its push-rod resting in a notch installed over the transom.  The tiller pilot is stowed (whenever not in use) by lifting the push-rod off the tiller extension, retracting the push-rod and simply rotating the assemble aft and dropping the retracted push-rod into its knotch.

 

Also, not shown is the "push-pull" on/off switch installed on the starboard side of the footwell.  The Tiller Pilot has its own fuze protected circuit.  So whenever the main on/off switch is on, the TP is available for use.

 

Chessie has a new motor: a Honda 4 long-shaft with a 6 amp charger.  The charger was considered necessary because of the considerable electrical requirements of the Tiller Pilot.  Also, the battery charging from occasional use of the motor pretty much substitutes for a solar panel.  The charging circuit is fuze-protected but "unswitched" so that whenever the motor is used -- the battery is being charged even if the main switch if "off."  For shore-side use there is a separate charging connector (on the outside of cabin bulkhead [Blk 3] and weather-protected under the port-side cockpit coaming -- also fuze-protected and unswitched.

 

Shown here is the happy owner on the first "sea trial" for the OBM.  Also shown is the tach-hour meter installed.  Its display is a liquid chrystal requiring very little energy.  Its input is simply a wire (the end of which is) wrapped around the spark plug lead held in place with a very small cable tie.  Switching between "hours" and "rpm" is by a "toggle" button at lower-right on the module.  Cost < $50.  The tachometer allowed me to discover that the maximum rpm was only about 3900 -- below the rated 4500.  Turns out that the dealer delivered the 4hp with the wrong prop -- a 7-7/8 d x 7-1/2 p.  We replaced that with a 7-7/8 x 5-7/8 prop.  Now she reves up to over 4500, developing a full 4 hp.  Pushes Chessie easily up to 5.5 knots.

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Next is Chessie at her slip next to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  She was attending the 35th Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival.  We had a very nice sail on Friday.  The last photo shows the skipper showing off (Look Ma, no hands) that Chessie balances very nicely and stears herself.

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 Notice:: the tiller pilot was NOT ENGAGED.

 

See youall at the Messabout on Friday.

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Peter,

 

She looks like a proper yacht tied up in the slip at St Michaels.

 

I look forward to seeing you both this weekend.

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That water storage idea for working water is nice. I never did see Chessie at St Michaels, but I enjoyed your stories over lunch and dinner. Plan on me for crew this weekend!

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One more essential for Chessie: a Masthead Light.  The Coast Guard requires a 135 degree forward facing white light when under way by power at night in addition to the other navigation lights (port-red, starboard-green, aft-white).  This is sometimes called a "steaming" light.  It's supposed to be mounted (something like) at least one meter above the top deck.  Recent rule changes suggested that a 360 degree light (like an anchor light) could be used as a substitute.  Chessie has such a light (removable) that is mounted on the starboard side of the cabin roof at Blk 3.  It can "telescope" to a height of almost 8' clearing well above the dodger and/or a furreled sail.

 

However, if Chessie motored at night, the 360 degree light would blind the helmsman looking forward.  So, I needed a "steaming" light on the mainmast.  But the only times I've cruised at night was for an early departure (or late arrival) for a crossing -- and I've only needed to do that twice in 10 years of cruising.  So I've designed and fabricated a steaming light that I can keep stowed and mount it on the mainmast only when needed:

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The "claws" are 6mm marine ply, the separator & mounting bracket is 12mm marine ply.  The claws flex just enough to firmly clasp the assembly to the 3" diameter mainmast.

 

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This last photo shows the light pushed onto the mast in its transport position.  The assembly will be kept [up and facing forward] in position by a 10-32 machine screw tapped into the aluminum mast just below the height where I'll want the light.  The power cord will be a flexable "roll-up" cord used for household vacuum cleaners.  There's a dedicated 12v power outlet in the anchor well on Blk 1.  The whole thing (light assembly with cord and plug) will be stowed in a canvas bag or cardboard box -- probably in the forward locker between Blks 1 & 2.

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