Jump to content

Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .


Pete McCrary

Recommended Posts

Pete, I had inserted wooden spacers about 3 X 5 X 1 1/2 in the trunk about 3 inches up from the bonding surface. Unknown to me wrestling the module into the hull apparently the blocks slipped down and got into the epoxy bead the module sits in at the module/hull joint. When I measured 7 times and drilled a 3/4 inch hole I was really surprised to find the blocks slid down. I wanted to zip around the trunk slot with a router, that didn't work. From a 3 minute project to a 3 hour project.

Are you going to get to the Messabout?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Jay, I think "Chessie's" CB slot will be ok -- but I wish I'd thought to put in the spacers.

I put in a little work almost every day and I'm ready to start priming and painting the bottom. But time seems to just fly by. And the cabin hatches and cockpit coamings (seat backs) are yet to be done. I haven't ruled out having her ready for the mess-about, but it's beginning to be an "iffy" prospect. If I miss it, Graham said it'd be ok to bring her down in November to help me fine tune the sailing setup. I could use the help having never worked with a cat-ketch rig.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both Graham and Alan were invaluable in the fine tuning the running rigging and reefing system on my boat. This is my first cat ketch experience and my first "light" boat in a few decades! A lot to learn, a pleasure to sail! Water makes a dramatic difference in performance! Surprised it makes such a difference!

Come take a sail on my boat!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ADVICE NEEDED from experienced glassing experts. While prepping the bottom for its first coat of AWLGRIP 545 epoxy primer I discovered a "bubble" under the fiberglass near the chine. Here are photos of it:

post-4915-0-58895900-1474038030_thumb.jpeg. It's about 1.25" x .75" and if I push on it, the space under it ~ 1/64".

post-4915-0-05805400-1474038156_thumb.jpeg

I was considering:

A. Drill small hole and inject it with slightly thickened epoxy, leave bump as is, and sand for the epoxy primer; or

B. With an Exacto blade, cut around the primiter, remove the bubble, feather the edge with scraper and 80 grit, then fill space with epoxy putty, and sand for the epoxy primer; or

C. Any better idea.

Suggestions would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just pulled the tape off the 1st coat for the red Boot. One more and I'll start the 545 primer on the bottom and topsides. The bottom will have 2 coats of 545, the 2nd one with some graphite to make it kinda gray rather than white. The topsides will have 2 coats of 545 and then 2 more of Interlux Brightside Polyurethane (white).

post-4915-0-73300900-1474467433_thumb.jpeg. Straight-on eye-level with the waterline.

post-4915-0-37875600-1474467529_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-35848900-1474467564_thumb.jpeg

My paint schedule should have "Chessie" ready for insertion of her CB and then bedding of the Anderson Bailers, bow-eye, and half-ovals by approximately Tuesday, September 27. Then ROLL HER top-side UP (never to be "bottom up" again) !!

The remaining color scheme: Sheer strakes -- Green; Cabin roof and bulkhead -- White; Decks -- Gray. I might leave the rub-rails, toe-rail, and transom BRIGHT. But maybe not, depends on how they look when I'm ready to paint or varnish. Haven't decided regarding the sprit booms. They'll be made of poplar. Not a very pretty wood (in my opinion) -- so maybe paint them white like the masts.

Comments, suggestions, welcome.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What time on the 27th? :)

You mean a dark green, like a forest green? Sounds like a lovely livery. I think that dark strake at the sheer really makes the look, too.

I am really looking forward to seeing this paint job finished and you on the home stretch. You remain inspiring, Pete, and your boat is turning out beautifully.

I'm secretly hoping you do go with bright accents, too. ;)

Peace,

Robert

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave, I considered that. But I didn't want to have to strike the waterline and the boot-top after the hull had been painted. I know it's a bit more trouble masking, etc., And, anyway, there would still be a transition from bottom paint to topside paint. Now, I'll have two transitions. I'll be quite happy with a nice looking "20-footer" -- as they say with respect to antique car classified ads (i.e., "looks good from 20 feet").

Robert, I had in mind what the car people call "British Racing Green." It's a roadster that must have a buff-tan soft-top. It's a dark green. I think Interlux calls it a "Sea Green."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete, that is going to be the PERFECT green. I can envision the car, and see the boat corollary. Will you have a buff bimini?:)

Your boat will be lovely all done up. I have a feeling it may be one of those rare 20cm boats. As in, yep, 20cm away, and it still looks good...

Incidentally, I've been fixing my kid's little pirogue, and we chose yellow with green rails. I'll post some shots on the main forum. I've been neglecting my build, er builds...

Keep on keeping on. Your persistent effort is inspiring, or humbling. Well, it makes me get to work on my own projects!:)

Peace,

Robert

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only 2 colors I would ever consider for a dodger or bimini would be buff or grey.  Light enough not to absorb heat, dark enough not to be a sun reflector (glare), forgiving enough to not look dirty, and neutral enough not to distract from the rest of the boat which is where you should be looking anyway.  That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

You mention using a little graphite to make the bottom grey.  If you have to touch the paint up sometime it might be hard to match.

I have to repeat the advice I was given about a good paint job and boats- no one ever sees the bottom, it's the topsides that are important.

i wouldn't worry about a careful match in an area nobody other than the boat builder ever sees ;)

Cheers

Peter HK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.