Jknight611 Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Pete, I had inserted wooden spacers about 3 X 5 X 1 1/2 in the trunk about 3 inches up from the bonding surface. Unknown to me wrestling the module into the hull apparently the blocks slipped down and got into the epoxy bead the module sits in at the module/hull joint. When I measured 7 times and drilled a 3/4 inch hole I was really surprised to find the blocks slid down. I wanted to zip around the trunk slot with a router, that didn't work. From a 3 minute project to a 3 hour project. Are you going to get to the Messabout? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Jay, I think "Chessie's" CB slot will be ok -- but I wish I'd thought to put in the spacers. I put in a little work almost every day and I'm ready to start priming and painting the bottom. But time seems to just fly by. And the cabin hatches and cockpit coamings (seat backs) are yet to be done. I haven't ruled out having her ready for the mess-about, but it's beginning to be an "iffy" prospect. If I miss it, Graham said it'd be ok to bring her down in November to help me fine tune the sailing setup. I could use the help having never worked with a cat-ketch rig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 Both Graham and Alan were invaluable in the fine tuning the running rigging and reefing system on my boat. This is my first cat ketch experience and my first "light" boat in a few decades! A lot to learn, a pleasure to sail! Water makes a dramatic difference in performance! Surprised it makes such a difference! Come take a sail on my boat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 When I get close enough -- I certainly will !!! I'm really looking forward to actually sailing "Chessie." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted September 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 ADVICE NEEDED from experienced glassing experts. While prepping the bottom for its first coat of AWLGRIP 545 epoxy primer I discovered a "bubble" under the fiberglass near the chine. Here are photos of it: . It's about 1.25" x .75" and if I push on it, the space under it ~ 1/64". I was considering: A. Drill small hole and inject it with slightly thickened epoxy, leave bump as is, and sand for the epoxy primer; or B. With an Exacto blade, cut around the primiter, remove the bubble, feather the edge with scraper and 80 grit, then fill space with epoxy putty, and sand for the epoxy primer; or C. Any better idea. Suggestions would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meester Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 I had a similar problem, and PAR suggested basically the same thing as B. http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9349-cs15-with-a-lug-yawl-rig/?p=91788 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Had the same minor bubble. Option B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted September 17, 2016 Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 In that location, you're not going to need much abrasion protection, as the protruding rail will guard the area, so knock it down, removing the blister, fill with fairing compound and move onto the next problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted September 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2016 Thanks guys. Bubble's been cut out. Watertite epoxy putty to be applied to all dinks today. AWLGRIP 545 starts tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Just pulled the tape off the 1st coat for the red Boot. One more and I'll start the 545 primer on the bottom and topsides. The bottom will have 2 coats of 545, the 2nd one with some graphite to make it kinda gray rather than white. The topsides will have 2 coats of 545 and then 2 more of Interlux Brightside Polyurethane (white). . Straight-on eye-level with the waterline. My paint schedule should have "Chessie" ready for insertion of her CB and then bedding of the Anderson Bailers, bow-eye, and half-ovals by approximately Tuesday, September 27. Then ROLL HER top-side UP (never to be "bottom up" again) !! The remaining color scheme: Sheer strakes -- Green; Cabin roof and bulkhead -- White; Decks -- Gray. I might leave the rub-rails, toe-rail, and transom BRIGHT. But maybe not, depends on how they look when I'm ready to paint or varnish. Haven't decided regarding the sprit booms. They'll be made of poplar. Not a very pretty wood (in my opinion) -- so maybe paint them white like the masts. Comments, suggestions, welcome. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 What time on the 27th? You mean a dark green, like a forest green? Sounds like a lovely livery. I think that dark strake at the sheer really makes the look, too. I am really looking forward to seeing this paint job finished and you on the home stretch. You remain inspiring, Pete, and your boat is turning out beautifully. I'm secretly hoping you do go with bright accents, too. Peace, Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Kind of late to offer this advice, but I would have primed the entire hull before any painting. This would avoid mechanical seams at color change lines as the primer would not break there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Dave, I considered that. But I didn't want to have to strike the waterline and the boot-top after the hull had been painted. I know it's a bit more trouble masking, etc., And, anyway, there would still be a transition from bottom paint to topside paint. Now, I'll have two transitions. I'll be quite happy with a nice looking "20-footer" -- as they say with respect to antique car classified ads (i.e., "looks good from 20 feet"). Robert, I had in mind what the car people call "British Racing Green." It's a roadster that must have a buff-tan soft-top. It's a dark green. I think Interlux calls it a "Sea Green." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Pete, that is going to be the PERFECT green. I can envision the car, and see the boat corollary. Will you have a buff bimini? Your boat will be lovely all done up. I have a feeling it may be one of those rare 20cm boats. As in, yep, 20cm away, and it still looks good... Incidentally, I've been fixing my kid's little pirogue, and we chose yellow with green rails. I'll post some shots on the main forum. I've been neglecting my build, er builds... Keep on keeping on. Your persistent effort is inspiring, or humbling. Well, it makes me get to work on my own projects! Peace, Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Shoot, I never mentioned how happy I am you took Puff. Happy to help, glad I could. Peace, Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 I hadn't thought of a buff-tan dodger or Bimini. I was going to go with white for heat reflection. But maybe buff-tan would do -- and be "cool" too [both ways]. And I eventually want a [main] boom tent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 The only 2 colors I would ever consider for a dodger or bimini would be buff or grey. Light enough not to absorb heat, dark enough not to be a sun reflector (glare), forgiving enough to not look dirty, and neutral enough not to distract from the rest of the boat which is where you should be looking anyway. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Looking good! You mention using a little graphite to make the bottom grey. If you have to touch the paint up sometime it might be hard to match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter HK Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 You mention using a little graphite to make the bottom grey. If you have to touch the paint up sometime it might be hard to match. I have to repeat the advice I was given about a good paint job and boats- no one ever sees the bottom, it's the topsides that are important. i wouldn't worry about a careful match in an area nobody other than the boat builder ever sees Cheers Peter HK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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