Pete McCrary Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 It's all OK. The anchor mockup was just to see if the hardware I ordered would fit. Now that I understand what the bow actually looks like -- the anchor will be held just a little further away from the stem. I'm a little concerned about the weight (so high and far forward) of the anchor (9.8 lbs) and the roller assembly (8.5 lbs) -- but since I nearly always sail solo, it shouldn't be a problem. The sheer strakes are in place almost ready for spot welding. I'm really impressed with the accuracy of these very long pieces. They fit so nicely. Getting the angle right. Next, before tac welding, I think I'll wire up the hanging knees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Getting close to looking like a real boat. Not far from turnover. Blk 1, 2, fwd & aft knees, and Blk 3 -- all line up pretty well. Looking aft port side then starboard side. Some trimming will be required, but not much to make true the cabin roof support and companionway framework. Next will be the deck beams and longitudinal rails supporting the cabin roof, companionway, and hatches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted April 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2016 Today I made up the companionway frame from Blk 1 to Blk 3 with a pair of stringers and cross-beams at Blk 1 & 2, fwd knee, and aft knee. The spaces for the companionway hatch, its garage, and the fwd hinged hatch (on which the solar panel will be mounted) are nice and square. All this was "dry-fitted." Next I'll disassemble it all, including the sheer strakes and prep all inboard surfaces with two Coates of epoxy. Then reassemble, and tac weld. When all is right: filleting, glassing, and pre-coating. Pretty soon I'll be putting on the cabin roof. This is fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 I thought maybe some of you would like to know the inspiration for my choice of "Chessie" for the name of CS20.3 #4. So, here it is (the C & O RR mascot): This afghan will keep me cozy-warm when crusing the Chesapeake Bay and other friendly waters. Just as an aside, in 1966 myself and family (wife and children (2 mos, 2, 4, & 6 yrs)) traveled by rail from Boston to Oakland. Then by DC-6 to Kwajalien Island. We had two connecting rooms and the trip was thoroughly enjoyed by all. There were lots of volunteers to baby-sit the little one while the rest of us enjoyed the dinning car. We returned by rail and later made another transcontinental round trip thru Canada (CP RR) from Montreal to Vancover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 I live in a family of rail workers and foamers. Me, I just like riding on trains. Who has time to take the time to travel that way now, eh? Well, I do, but I live in my own little world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Being an old HO railroad modeler and train fan, I've always liked the "Chessie" logo. Here's some history: http://www.cohs.org/history/chessie.shtml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 I like it....Chessie the Cat (ketch). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Chessie...the ketch rigged cat. I like that. It seems to suggest a song to be sung extemporaneously, as is my wont, in the hammock accompanied by inadequately finger picked ukulele. After I finish weeding and sowing the gardens, restitching the patio sun sail, fixing the cracked canoe rudder...man, I think I got a kayak to finish stitching up, too. I think I need to lie in the hammock first, to build up some strength for all that. Jeeves, another cup of joe and the soprano, please. I'm nice to my butler. Ch-ch-ch-Chessie... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted April 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2016 After a two-day 60th Reunion with "brother rats" from the Virginia Military Institute, Class of 1956, in Lexngton, Virginia, I'm back to having fun and progress with "Chessie." The V. M. I. "Color Guard" and Corps of Cadets at parade honoring the returning alumni. After dry-fitting sheer strakes, cabin knees, and the framework for the hatches and companionway -- notes were made and all was disassembled. A list was made of at least a dozen things to be done before reassembly and "tac welding" everything. Such as epoxying all "inside" surfaces, etc. Because the work had to be done on the floor, the hardest job was applying epoxy to the 20'+ sheer strakes. For those who haven't done this yet: Eight squirts each of epoxy & fixer proved to be just right for the 1st coat (applied with a 4.5" roller) covering one side of both strakes AND one side of all four cabin knees. I thought it would take more. Next I'll measure (and post) a fairly accurate square footage of all that was covered. The last epoxy was laid on at 10:45 am. If I can get a "thin-film" set by this evening, I'll apply the 2nd and last coat today. That should end the back & knee-breaking floor work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted April 23, 2016 Report Share Posted April 23, 2016 Pete, I new of VMI, but not much about it. I just googled it. Quite impressive. Chessie is looking great. I am glassing more joints and working on the tiller today. Tomorrow I should have a bunch of hours to spend on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted April 25, 2016 Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 You'll really be glad that you took the time to pre-coat the interior sides before assembly. Wish I had... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Getting close to attaching the sheer strakes and being able to actually see in real 3-d what the cabin space will look and feel like. To cheer things up I fancied up the doubler I installed to stiffen Blk #1. Probably isn't necessary, but it gives me a little more feeling that the tabernacle can't be made to move. "Chessie" has a small wale as her mascot -- "Chester" -- to keep her safe from the demons of the deep. Although I made space for a battery box in the locker between Blks 1 & 2, I'm going to have the battery in the space right on the keel just forward of the shelf under the bridge deck. Its top cover will be the first (of one or two) steps up to the the cockpit. Its weight (probably about 85 lbs) will be useful as ballast and centrally located. If I ever feel the need for a second battery, I'll use the battery base already made between Blks 1 & 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 I like all the personal touches. Do you buy the specialty epoxy rollers and clean/re-use them or is it possible to use cheap ones from box stores? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 I've never even tried to reuse an epoxy roller. I use cheap 9" rollers (cut in half to 4.5"). They are gray in color and have a foam nap of about 1/8" thickness. I have found them in paint stores and True Value hardware stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Cool little whale - Chester. Agreed on the rollers. I like the Ace Hardware foam mini-rollers. They come in a six pack #1494871. They are white. Cleaning up rollers uses so much acetone that it costs as much as replacing the roller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makenmend Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 I have found that if your going to re coat the next day or real soon putting the roller in a zip lock baggie then in the freezer,I can re use that roller when it thaws out. MM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Thanks for the answers; I have never rolled epoxy and has was surprised at the price of the epoxy-specific rollers. I'll use the cheap ones recommended instead. I'm getting ready to put the final coat of epoxy down before I seal up the centerboard case and wanted to try rolling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 When you apply the epoxy on flat areas, be sure to "squeegee" it. I use the plastic squeegee that you buy for spreading Bondo. When possible as on horizontal surfaces, just pout the epoxy on and spread it around with the squeegee. Go back and forth until the glass is clear, then move the resin puddle on "down the line". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 I used the squeegee method when I glassed it and filled the weave with the squeegee; I'm putting on the finish coat now and thought it would be easier to roll up the sides of the centerboard case framework then squeegee it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Rollers will waste quite a bit of goo and you'll feel guilty about tossing them, with several ounces of epoxy still captured inside. Once you get use to a squeegee and a plastic applicator, you'll forget about the roller and brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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