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CS 17, Mk 3 "Just in Time"


IsZataRock
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Hi Phil,

 

Thanks for the positive feedback.  Sometimes it's hard to see the beautiful lines of this boat.  My eyes are drawn to the unfinished shortcomings.

 

I won't be entering the EC next year.  I promised myself a couple years ago that I wouldn't enter with a boat that I hadn't thoroughly checked out.  Given all the work I still need to do to get her sailing, I won't have time to get familiar with her before next March.  I MIGHT bring her to Florida and run along as an unofficial chase boat, however. I'm looking forward to exploring that route in a comfortable boat and with a well-rested mind.  Not that sleep deprivation doesn't have it's interesting moments.  But it makes it impossible to take in all the sights and sounds.

 

I'd be interested to know if any other folks are looking to cruise it rather than race.  I'm guessing you are planning to hit it hard?

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Yes, hoping to make it to Oklahoma this year.

 

First launch will be in Chatfield Lake, right next to the State Parks office where I'll be registering my boat and my closest lake for any boat longer than 14'.  After that I hope to stretch out to Dillon, Green Mountain Res, Grandby, Torquise, and Glendo.  If all goes well, Oklahoma in October, possibly Lake Powell,  Tampa to Key Largo in March, Texas 200.  Next summer I'd really like to get up to Idaho and Montana.  

 

It may be good to remember: "We plan, God laughs!" 

 

MM (great nickname for what we do), two of us in March would be cool.  Maybe we'll get more folks.

 

Of to the river now.

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Great !                "We plan, God laughs!"    How true,               apart from that I'll be at Eufala come October.

Have done the last 2 years Tx 200 in my core sound and both times with non sailing crew that took to it like a ducks out of water, had difficulty getting to helm myself !!

 

makenmend comes from my old Royal Navy days, used to mean in old sailing days time off to make repairs ect,  in modern days the afternoon off for shore leave. Appropriate for just taking off to build ones boat or go sail.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Well it's official.  I splashed Just In Time last week (Sept 2nd) and verified that she floats!

 

post-4028-0-93160100-1441991224_thumb.jpg post-4028-0-57602200-1441991448_thumb.jpg

 

Unfortunately, while my motor seemed to work just fine in the garage, I couldn't get it started at the dock.  After a little carburetor surgery at an adjacent beach I was able to get it running at and slightly above idle.  But it needed a lot of choke to run at higher throttle.  Still my daughter, Rachel, and I had a good time on our first mini-cruise.

 

You might note that the paint is a little less than stellar and that I don't have many places to tie things.  She has the bow eye, two transom tie-down eyes and one cam cleat.  And my cabin hatch attachments are less than rock solid.  Screwing into 1/4" plywood with the hope that the screw points won't protrude and rip something is always a bad idea.

 

During the next few days I became much more familiar with outboard motor shops.  But I finally found a good Nissan shop who confirmed that the carb has TWO overflow tubes and that the critical jet is accessable from inside the float chamber.  So I was able to clean out the gunk and get it running like it should.  

 

After waiting for the Labor Day crowds to dissipate, I've gotten out another couple more times this week.  Motor runs fine.  Though I forgot to bring the GPS I'm pretty sure I'm pushing 9-10 mph with just me aboard.  With my friend, Paul and some more supplies, we confirmed about 8 mph.  Despite great performance, I've realized that I am NOT a motorboater.  The noise and vibration is inconsistent with my expectations of being on the water in a beautiful boat.  So I'm working on getting at least a downwind rig functional yet this Fall.

 

All in all, the boat's performance meets all my expectations.  She's solid and dry under the mild conditions I've seen so far.  And seems so light compared to my my expectations that I'm blown away.  I look at this enormous hull (compared to my other boats) and expect heavy and slow.  But that couldn't be more wrong.  Now I can't wait to get the sailing parts done and get her on a broad reach in some decent wind!

 

Hal

 

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Looking good.

When I had a 5hp tohatsu I would disconnect the fuel line and run the motor out of gas after each use. I did not have any issues with the motor getting gummed up. That is what my father always did with the old early 50's two stroke we had.

I am with you on how much nicer it is to sail than motor. I have hit slightly higher speeds under sail than with the 5 at full power.

I look forward to se your boat under sail. Congrats on the first CS 17 M 3 in the water.

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  • 4 months later...

It's been an interesting little while since I posted.  I could truthfully say that helping out family and friends has detracted from my focus on boats.  But it'd be untruthful to blame all of my low boating energy to those activities - as important as they were.  It's also been cold in my garage.  And I've found that mixing epoxy requires some kind of "groove" that I seem to have fallen out of.

 

Still, I have been making a little progress. 

 

I am finally getting around to gluing down the cabin seats in my CS17.3.  So I've been going around with a final smoothing of rough spots.  And I found a damaged area under the chine end of the starboard web under the aft cabin bulkhead.  (The picture shows where I whacked off the loose end of the plywood web and cleat.) I have it on the port web in the same spot. I noted that 1) there is no epoxy on the hull-cleat connection, 2) the epoxy didn't hold between the plywood web and the hull at the outboard end, and 3) the epoxy at the inboard half of the failed area was strong enough to break the hull's plywood laminate.
 
I think it is caused by my trailer bunks supporting the hulls just inboard of the chine in this area.  Plus the bunks have rigid supports directly under these webs.  Plus I obviously wasn't very careful about getting the end of the cleat glued to the hull.  Plus, the seat ply attachment to the hull in that area would have added a lot of strength.  So this probably wouldn't be a problem for most folks who follow directions better than I do.  But I thought it might be useful to note that, sometimes, well, shit happens.
 
I plan to glue the loose piece back into position on the hull.  Then scarf another cleat across the cut and fill in the 1" of the cut plywood web. And, of course, glue down the seats. I'm not sure if the plans call for it, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to add some tape between the seats and the hull - especially where the webs are positioned.
 
Any thoughts?

Hal

post-4028-0-65041800-1454113149_thumb.jpg

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" I'm not sure if the plans call for it, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to add some tape between the seats and the hull ..."

Yes, you definitely tape the seat tops to the hul. Fill in the "corner" where the seat top tests against the hull with epoxy putty, then glass over.

These little "boo-boos" happen. Ya just fix em and move on. Proper support of the hull is important.

 

Pay careful attention to this when you fit the trailer to the boat. Be sure your longitudinal bunks support the hull under the bulkheads. Normally most of the boat's weight is supported along the keel. I'm a little concerned about trailer rollers under the keel where there is no solid structure like a keel batten (keelson?). Instead, we trowel in a  wide "fillet" of epoxy and cover it with a layer of bi-axial roving. I'm a bit worried that the hull could be depressed where it sits on the rollers.  I think that I'll have most of the weight on the trailer bunks. What do you other guys think???

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Hal,

 

Chick is correct, The webs need to be glass taped to the bottom, the bunk tops are glued down to the webs, the bunk top to hull joint is filleted and taped, giving end fixity to the webs. The problem with the webs with the way that you had them is that load is transmitted to the end of the web and when the force is above the peel strength at the very end of the joint the end fails, the new end of the joint fails and so on as it peels away like a zipper that has lost a tooth.

 

In your case the uninstalled bunk top was the missing zipper tooth.

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Chick and Graham,

 

Thanks for the feedback.  It is all so much easier to see AFTER the failure.  I'll get her straighten out and fixed up in the next few days.

 

There still remains another question, though.  The longitudinal trailer bunks are designed to carry a big motor at aft on the boat and don't provide much or any support forward.  I fashioned a small support under Bulkhead 1.  But I don't think I made it high enough and as a result, most of the weight of the boat was supported under Bulkhead 3 where the webs broke.

 

How do I adjust the height of that forward support so that boat weight is properly distributed, i.e., not "high centered" like it was but not suspended between the bow and the stern either???

 

Hal

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