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Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3


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Here is Sumer Breeze with her new ownwers, Dale and Kristi in Florida.

Oh, man, I just can't do that again. I've done a few small sailboats with all the filleting and taping and mixing and sanding. I also did a round few strip/glass canoes with all the mixing and sanding

After considerable research and development, I've found surgical tubing makes the finest slingshot engine.

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So I kind of disagree on this boat if you are using the supplied factory "tip". The reason is unlike a big boat lead that is really thick, the tip on the boat is so thin it gets whacked out of shape pretty easily. I had the board all made, and the tip glued on and knocked the board off a low bench. The tip bent bad enough it might not have fit in the c board slot. Luckily with a handful of strategic blows I was able to pound it back into close to original shape. I have one layer on right now and I may add another.   I wonder what Graham did.

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Stave, you've proven my point. 

 

 . . . a handful of strategic blows I was able to pound it back into close to original shape . . .

 

This is the benefit of not sheathing lead. With a sheath, you'll still get deformation in a hard strike, but it'll live under a sheathing, complicating repairs. A couple layers of light fabric, isn't going to prevent much, except abrasion. Most boards tend to drag or bounce over stuff anyway.

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Just to prove that I'm actually still plugging along, here are a couple of pics. Sprits have a first coat of epoxy. Rudder parts all are poxy coated, in the process of being sanded, and ready for varnish coats. I'm saving all of the exterior brightwork to be done at the same time. Tomorrow I'll get to building the boom gallows and the c/b sheave box. Yeah, Vern, I know that box shoulda been done while the deck was still off. Now i gotta crawl down into the "hole" to get at it. (Never enough time to do it right the first time, but always time to fix it later!)

 

post-1823-0-85811500-1458159684_thumb.jpg  Sprits hanging in the garage where Miss Debbie can bump into them and get poxy in her hair.

 

post-1823-0-22541700-1458159688_thumb.jpg  Rudder parts awaiting Mr. Sanders.

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I like two things about getting epoxy in my hair.

One, it means I still have some. Hair, that is. On top of my head. My beard is always tucked into the respirator, so I can smell the soup or ice cream, or peanut butter, whatever I spilled in it last...

Two, I always smell like fish and chips and cole slaw after I rinse it out with vinegar, so I inevitably have some... Fish and chips and cole slaw, that is. Yum.

Your boat is really starting to be a boat, brother! I'm excited for you.

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Thanks Tiger. I'm gettin' excited myself---I wanna go boat-boat!

 

Fish n' chips---now I want some! Bout the closest we get here is Long John Silver's. Hmmm, but then I think of Bar-B-Q. That's YUM too. Got several good ones around here. Maybe Miss Debbie will let me go after church Sunday....

 

Well, back to the boat. Heading out now to add a second coat of poxy to those sprits.

 

Oh, hi Scott! Ya just joined us. Thanks. Another saying---"Looks can be deceiving". But it suits me. I'm pretty happy with everything. When ya coming through this way again?

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Drew, I used tools and wood and epoxy. Not the right answer? Just a bit of my usual silliness this morning. I'm guessing you want to know the wood that I used. I'm sure some of the other guys will say "NO-NO-NO", but I used my old standby, poplar. i laminated it from two 3/4" pieces to make the 1 1/2" square section required. If it doesn't break, I win, if it does, the "I told you so" crowd will win.

 

Scott, I'll look forward to seeing you at Graham's.

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I'd go with the white pine for this. Try for straight, close grain.

I'll do that. And I'll laminate two pcs for each sprit which will stiffen them. White Pine is very flexable and needs to be stiffened. For my "Tattoo" I made a mizzen mast out of WP and it weighed just under 5 lbs! It had a 1" diameter hollow space thru about 80% of its length.

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I am a huge fan of pine, when the grain is tight. All you gotta do is watch a pine tree in a breeze to know why they make good spars. Good enough for the Royal Navy, eh?

We got these lodge pole pines out here, so called because they were used as lodge poles, by the original tenants of this area. I ain't know the Latin name. I know they grow real tall and straight and pretty branch free, for a pine. Sometimes when I'm in the woods, I think I should build me a "big" sailboat, just so I can use one of those trees for my mast...

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My thoughts:  epoxy helps give some ding protection and provides a good, more or less permanent base for the varnish.  A little touch up varnish each year, rather than a complete redo.  That's been my experience.  Possibly adds some strength as well, although that may be more wishful thinking on my part.

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I bet the pine works fine here.  Like others have said, find a nice piece. 

 

As to epoxy, i never epoxy solid wood components before varnish.  I see no reason.  It is also easier to repair down the road with no epoxy.  My Douglas Fir birdsmouth masts and solid sprits are varnished only.  I'm quite sure that added strength is just wishful thinking Paul.  The ding protection is minimal and if a blemish discolors blending it out with epoxy on the rest of the spar becomes a huge chore.  With just varnish a heat gun can strip back the varnish around the blemish so that sanding and if needed stain can be blended in.

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