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Core Sound 20 MKlll s/n 2


Jknight611

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Hi Steve, pretty big step from the bridge deck to the cabin, a small 2 step ladder has (not installed on this photo) has a bronze hinge and flips up. The lower step becomes a fiddle to keep things on the ballast tank top.

Yep, need to spend a lot of effort now on the panel joints, or you get to spend remedial time later....... I know from personal experience!

Looking forward to hearing of your 3D experience. We planned our like a moon shot, but in real life it was done in a few minutes with no problems at all. Roll over Saturday for us. Want to see if I have a epoxy glob to clean up in the centerboard trunk!

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As I hoped, the rollover was nothing more than a bunch of sailing and motorcycle friends eating grilled chicken and standing around. I had the tractor with front end loader standing by, but 4 guys on the boat, 4 wives watching, no problem.

When we fileted the module to the hull panels it seemed like the centerboard trunk was taking a lot of epoxy, naw, I found it! I had left spacer blocks in the trunk slot to hold the alignment open when we installed the module. Boy were they hard to fish out of the trunk after they fell into the wet filet epoxy that had gotten inside the trunk.

Cut the forward hatch out, going to use a Bomar hatch I removed from another boat several years ago, new I would eventually find a use for it. Trimmed the inner flange down to about 3/8 and it fits better than I had a right to expect.

Planned a flat on the keel centerline, after glassing the hull I considered 5/4 stock for the skeg, but that looks kinda big, may go to a 1X stock.

Back to work tomorrow so the shipyard closes for a week or so...... And I was having so much fun!

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  • 2 months later...

Well after several delays, CS20.3 is back right side up! The hull paint looks .........pretty good. Amazing how much dust is in the shop, practically impossible to clean the dust up! It is on everything, including the wet paint. After a phone consult with Doug, here is my roll over rig, 12 feet of scaffolding on each side, 2 2x6s to act as a spreader to keep the scaffolding apart, and some turn blocks. 3/4 line (old halards) and 2 finger pinching cable come-a-longs. After planning the actual roll over took 30 seconds. Back on some foam padding on it's building jig.

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Hey Jay, good job rolling. I wish I had the overhead and width to do that. I always had a bigger shop that I could hang chain hoists in for my previous builds. Gonna have to pull this one out onto the gravel drive and roll it onto padding with some willing helpers. But where to find them...

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The shackles are the threaded chain links, looks like a link of chain with a hex on one long axis of the link.  The line is some old 3/4" halyards that came from the "other" boat.  Yellow straps would be better, I noticed a very small "dent" in the coaming from the ropes we used. We used things we had on hand, except for the chain was a new purchase.  The 2X6s will become the bunk boards on the trailer.  The 2X6 didn't have any load except for a small compression load.  Like every thing I get into, it took longer to figure it all out than to do it!  I will use this lash-up again to fit the boat to the trailer.   

 

Hopefully SOON!!

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  • 2 months later...

Been painfully long (sorry Chick) since I posted a update on "Southern Express". CS 20.3. Well it is near complete . Kinda goofy photos, hard to get far enough to get a decent photo. Still messing with the varnish a bit. All the items that "won't take long to build" rudder, sprits, mast are all in a separate pile. Out smarted myself on the centerboard. When we turned the boat back upright I had the brilliant idea to whack 4 inches from each leg of the building jig, I'll have to wait on the centerboard install till I rig my scaffolding back when we load it on the trailer.

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Thanks Chick, the rub rail isn't quite complete, it is a plastic extrusion that a 1 1/4 inch white rubber is stretched over it. It is attached with 10-24 riv-nuts set in wet epoxy with West 404 to tuffen it up. The tracks for the forward hatch and solar panels are mounted with riv-nuts also. After working on the 10-24 nuts on my other boat's rub rail I vow never to wallow under deck trying to start a darn nut on the screws! When the riv-nut is set in epoxy they are amazingly strong. There is one cleat on the bow just aft of the main tabernacle on the port side. There are U bolts on the transom to use as hard points. Kinda hate to put deck cleats, thinking they will catch more sheets than dock lines! I will likely prepare dock lines on the U bolts before entering a marina situation. May have a rethink after I use it a bit. Still pondering a mid cleat of some sort for fender boards

Notice I used knees and deck beams, added about 10 lbs, but I hid the cabin lights wires inside and it is really "firm" when my rather large butt walking on the cabin top.

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