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bottom paint


mcdermitt

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I need some advice on bottom paint on a cs-17 . I have glasses the bottom and primed and faired the bottom. I have been lead to believe the bottom has to be painted with two part epoxy. most a of the bottom paint I see is not listed as epoxy.the boat will be trailered and out of water most of the time. I figure the longest it would be in the water would be 3 weeks mostly fresh water maybe some salt. I would like to put it on with a roller be a hard surface and a color other than white. Iam looking for advice on brands and specific names and how maybe how to do.

Thanks

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Considering the use you predict there is no need for bottom paint.

 

There is a lot of paranoia about treating boat bottoms.  You will have already treated the bottom, the whole boat for that matter with 3 coats of epoxy.  Waterproof is no longer an issue.  The question now becomes what final paint will you use on the bottom and what, if any additional prep that paint requires. (read paint instructions)

 

I will start off painting my entire hull white and leaving it that way.  Over time the bottom will likely suffer some abrasion and will need touch up before the rest of the hull.  At that time I will consider some kind of bottom treatment that may or may not match the hull.  It will be done for abrasion repair, not anti-fouling.  Some people like the look of contrasting bottom paint.  But in my case, and yours it would seem as well, that could mean topside paint of a different color on the bottom.  I will be using System 3 WR-LPU, and the directions say it can go directly over System 3 epoxy but that their 2-part WR epoxy primer should be used over all other materials.  I would guess that it would go over just about any epoxy without primer, but I do not have sufficient evidence to recommend or follow that procedure.  So since I am using B&B epoxy, I will prime according to the 3M instructions. (when in doubt, read the instructions)

 

If abrasion is a consideration, and I think it is for all of us, then having a trace coat of a different color is useful for showing when wear has occurred  to the point where something should be done soon.  In my case the primer is grey and the bottom will be white.  On my Renegade I used an ablative bottom paint and the trace coat was light green and the additional coats were dark green.

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Oops, SORRY. Look now, I've added it.

http://www.international-pc.com/PDS/4410-P-eng-A4.pdf

Check for a Devoe paint store near you. They may have to order it if they only carry house paint at that store. Sherwin Williams also has an industrial poly, but I've not tried it yet. I will on my CS-15 Mk-2.

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I have had a few boats that I did the same thing to and I am happy with the product and results. Interlux 2000e barrier coat is not real expensive and seems wicked tough and abrasion resistant. I then used VC17 bottom paint. It is really thin, and for the type of boating you are doing, would be perfect IMHO.

 

Take Care,

Steve

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I have used Devthane on two boats. It is definitely a fine very durable paint. However, as far as I know only available in gallon size and by the time you buy reducers you have a significant investment. You will have to purchase about six times what you will need to paint the bottom of a CS-17.  Devthane is supposed to be used with supplied air, but I just used lots of ventilation. It has strong fumes and is not what I would call an entry level paint.

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The paint manufacturers do not recommend using polyurethanes under water. I know that these are trailer boats but some are left in the water for long periods. I always do my bottoms with epoxy paint only and I can add antifouling paint if I want to leave a boat in the water. Remember that in the summer you will have barnacles in a week.

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Graham, what epoxy paint do you use? How about the Sherwin Williams epoxy paint?

 

Joe, I have sprayed Devthane, but had to thin it WAY more than the manufacturer recommends. I didn't have the correct nozzles for it. The bad thing about spraying it is that the mist contains  isocyanate which is extremely dangerous and not only will get into your lungs, but through your skin, too. You must use a supplied air mask and cover every bit of skin including your face. Some of us will use it on occasion with lots of ventilation and the best mask and clothing that we can, but we really shouldn't.

 

I'm always looking for a substitute for marine paints because there is nowhere near me that carry them, so I have to order them which also means that I have to pay the high price for the paint and reducer, but also shipping and Hazmat costs.

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Floyd

An excellent tool I recommend, available free at West Marine, is the Interlux booklet on marine paints. It is about a 20 pager, breaks down all the different categories (topsides, anti- fouling, deck paint etc) as well as paint types ( LPU, Enamel, Epoxy). While obviously detailing Interlux paints, it is a useful tool you can learn a lot from regardless of whose paint you use. If you do use an Interlux paint it is invaluable as far as compatable primers, thinners, substrate for each paint etc. It also does an excellent job of explaining painting process.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I used a Sherman Williams epoxy paint called "Tile Clad" on my Two Paws, it was easy to paint and after 10 rugged years still protects. The entire little boat was rolled and tipped. On my CS20 MKIII project I bought a 2 gallon kit, it is now water based epoxy. I plan to paint the "utility" areas ( under bunks, laseret areas, anchor well ) if it works out well I may paint the bottom below the boot stripe. After Graham's boot stripe class I am eager to give it a whirl!

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  • 5 months later...

Interesting to log on to this forum for a couple months and find the topic that has kept me somewhat perplexed for the recent past weeks right at the top.  My two cents:

 

Best I can tell, there is a key choice to make after you've finished glassing and smoothing the bottom: are you going to be satisfied with at somewhat rougher looking and less durable finish that is easy to apply and get you on the water quicker?  Or are you willing to take the extra steps needed to achieve the better finishes afforded by two-part polyurethane?  Once you apply a one-part paint, you boat's fate is decided.  

 

I chose to use a two-part epoxy primer.  Expensive, yes!  But after a gazillion applications of epoxy to build the boat, it wasn't that difficult to apply.  And now, I can better see all the defects I can either address or ignore in the future.  I plan to launch this summer with just the primer and then spend this fall and winter to try and get a really nice finish.  That will include 2-part polyurethane as Graham has recommended.  I'm somewhat embarrassed to launch an "unfinished boat."  But I figure I'll have a lot more patience this winter than I do now.

 

It was interesting to note that the epoxy bubbled up the paint on in my paint tray in about 30 minutes every bit as effectively as Zipstrip.  I can imagine that applying a nice, 2-part epoxy or LPU over a single part paint on the bottom would be disastrous!  Luckily the enamel stayed put while the epoxy was applied to the boat.  

 

Hal

CS 17, Mk 3, Hull #5

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I will be using an epoxy primer, too. On past boats, I just filled and faired using epoxy resin before painting, and it was hard to see where it needed more work, but came out pretty well anyway. I guess it depends on how fussy you are. I like the idea of the Sherwin Williams Tile Clad for the paint. For now it's on the "top of my list" to use on Summer Breeze. If not, Sherwin also makes a two part poly industrial paint that I may try. I dislike the two part poly as it is very dangerous to your nervous system. I already have peripheral neuropathy in my feet and legs from working with chemicals during my boat building career. 

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Thanks for the tip, Dave!  Propylene glycol is considerably less scary than Perfection's ALIPHATIC POLYISOCYNATE (whatever that is).  Ventilation in my garage is ok if I open the both doors.  But then the wind blows my carefully-kept sanding dust all over.  Maybe someday I'll get covers for all my shelves and rid my garage of dust.

 

I'm a fan of semigloss for a lot of things as gloss just shows off all my boats' defects.  Has this forum resolved the gloss/semigloss issue?

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